Anybody running xx1? How's it holding up?

i enjoyed perry's write up today on the wolfstooth 30t chainring

but can he or someone else explain to me wtf is going on with his rear axle here?

Mind bang.

Should pair it with the Davinci replacement cogs as well.

boom - i wished the bike had shorter chainstays, so i made it so. about 16.25" now. slotted only the aluminum, so no actual frame damage incurred.

That's a badass chainstay mod.

I have all of 2 rides on the XX1 so far, so far too early to tell for me but so far no dropped chains or anything to complain about. I'll keep trying.

School me please on crank alternatives and how chainline would differ from the XX1 crank, i.e. If I'm using an XTR crank with say a Wolftooth or RF chainring, would a 32 be in the same position as the XX1? And if I drop down to a 30 it will be offset to the inside?

In otherwords, for now is it best to stick with the stock XX1 crankset to get optimal chainline if wanting to try a 30 and 32 tooth with the 11x on the rear?

My buddy is on a Turbine crank with a 32T RF narrow wide ring running XX1 cassette and rear D and the chainline is same as the XX1 crank was. I'm told the same goes for the 30T from RF. So short answer is chainline is the same or very similar.

My buddy is on a Turbine crank with a 32T RF narrow wide ring running XX1 cassette and rear D and the chainline is same as the XX1 crank was. I'm told the same goes for the 30T from RF. So short answer is chainline is the same or very similar.

The 32T should be in a very similar position to the XX1 but the 30T will be offset inwards likely 2-3mm because it needs clearance to the crankarm chainring tabs. Shimano cranks are only meant to take a 32T as the smallest middle ring so the crankarm tabs are sized for that. To allow use of a 30T and not have the chain ride on the chainring tabs, the chainring is offset to the inside and the chainring bolts thread directly into the chainring.

boom - i wished the bike had shorter chainstays, so i made it so. about 16.25" now. slotted only the aluminum, so no actual frame damage incurred.

So is your rotor not aligned with your caliper properly now or does the non-drive side have some funky sliding caliper mount?

So a few more notes on the setup.

In muddy conditions, the drive train starts to feel pretty grindy. Maybe that's a good thing and gets you to clean it more often.

I find I'm adjusting my barrel adjust on my shifter fairly often. The system definitely runs in a narrower tuning range than my old xtr setup.

So far still loving it and wouldn't go back to a 2x10 setup.

Ditto on the tuning range comment. Gotta keep everything perfectly aligned or it gets catchy. Still, most impressive drivetrain I've ever ridden.

I wonder how much longer I hold out for

I think I've put about 10 good shore rides on the XX1 now, and had my first chain drop today - so here I am to tell the internet all about it. If it continues to only happen 1 in 10 rides I'll probably not bother with a guide, though the MRP Micro guide is pretty tempting.

Totally loving the setup though. I plan to go 28T for the long and steeps, 32T is okay for most but I do find myself looking for a lower gear on hilly XC rides. She shifts like a proper high end drivetrain though, super crisp and fast, even under moderate load.

After about 8 hours ride time on my set up, no dropped chains and I am using a normal Chromag 32 and MRP XC guide. Shifting is a much lighter feel that SRAM used to have and I like that. I do miss the double release that XTR has and XTR shifts a fair bit faster particularly the release shift to a higher gear I think partly because Shimano releases when the click happens as opposed to SRAM where you have to let do of the shift paddle. I kept fiddling with cable tension but that is just how it works.

The SRAM chain is coated with goo too that loves to collect dirt. Pulley wheels were gunked up fast. But that's easily corrected with a bit of citrus degreaser. Shimano road chains have this goo too but not the latest off road chains. At least mine are like this.

The 32 is not low enough for me though and a XX1 crank and 30 are on order. I would rather keep the Shimano crank but that 30 tooth Race Face still hasn't showed up and I may want a 28 too so that is how we go.

The 32 is not low enough for me though and a XX1 crank and 30 are on order. I would rather keep the Shimano crank but that 30 tooth Race Face still hasn't showed up and I may want a 28 too so that is how we go.

I put a 28T on mine - I think it's a requirement for a 29er, but for my 26er I could have went 28 or 30, chose 28 because you can never have too low of a bailout gear and I don't expect running out of top end to be a problem with either.