Adjustable seatposts

wtf

don't get it… what's the performance advantage of internal routing? vs. the inconvenience of accessing the system… especially when its hydrolic vs. cable… ie. bleeding…

don't get it… what's the performance advantage of internal routing? vs. the inconvenience of accessing the system… especially when its hydrolic vs. cable… ie. bleeding…

Cable insertion at the collar as opposed to the seat clamp looks like the big one.
But agreed that internal routing would be a big pain in the ass.

Cable insertion at the collar as opposed to the seat clamp looks like the big one.
But agreed that internal routing would be a big pain in the ass.

But you can accomplish that with a configuration like the GD, and that's super tidy already.

I had a Joplin a few years ago and got rid of it because I couldn't get the clamp to hold the seat properly. Which of these wonderful toys have solved that problem (preferrably with a Thomson-style seat mounting setup)?

I had a Joplin a few years ago and got rid of it because I couldn't get the clamp to hold the seat properly. Which of these wonderful toys have solved that problem (preferrably with a Thomson-style seat mounting setup)?

The Rock Shox Reverb is the closest. It is a two bolt jacking post with infinite adjust ability. The KS has a good head but it is a serrated one so the tilt is not infinitely adjustable. The GD looks very similar to the old Syncros posts. Those were OK but not great. I'm gonna check out a GD in person if I can to see what they're all about. My trusted mechanic says that can have issues with the pin lining up with the holes when they wear a bit.

Oh. I have a Joplin at home that has the shitty head that would hold a saddle well. I discovered the schrader valve in the bottom and aired it up so that aspect of it works again. Never saw that in the instruction manual. I read somewhere that it uses nitrogen but I am guessing that is a myth. Don't see why one would need N in a simple device like that.

SW told me why they put nitrogen in seat posts, but I can't remember.

The Rock Shox Reverb is the closest. It is a two bolt jacking post with infinite adjust ability. The KS has a good head but it is a serrated one so the tilt is not infinitely adjustable. The GD looks very similar to the old Syncros posts. Those were OK but not great. I'm gonna check out a GD in person if I can to see what they're all about. My trusted mechanic says that can have issues with the pin lining up with the holes when they wear a bit.

The GD uses an infinite adjust two-bolt system. I don't know why dropper post manufacturers can't figure out that the post still needs to work well as a seat post. The KS/Joplin clamps are just crap.

will an adjustable seatpost such as a reverb have a tough time on a bike with a super slack seattube like a knolly delerium?

SW told me why they put nitrogen in seat posts, but I can't remember.

probably to somewhat-molify the weight weenies who have a hard time stomaching an upgrade that increases bike weight; nitrogen is lighter than air

will an adjustable seatpost such as a reverb have a tough time on a bike with a super slack seattube like a knolly delerium?

a dropper post that requires rider weight to lower the saddle height would probably be a bit awkward to use in conjunction with a super-slack seat tube. angling the saddle might also be a bit tricky on the models with crappy clamps. also, the fast spring action on posts like the gd might have more serious consequences considering the trajectory of return :damn:

will an adjustable seatpost such as a reverb have a tough time on a bike with a super slack seattube like a knolly delerium?

YES. I am not sure what maker published the specs, but one of them specifies a minimum seat post angle. If you go too slack, you run the risk of snapping the post or bending it.

Can my Reverb actually work? Would be nice to have more than 12 rides on a product Ive had for 7 months.

SW told me why they put nitrogen in seat posts, but I can't remember.

This would likely be something to do with minimizing leakage or air bleeding out of the system. Nitrogen is offered as an upcharge on car tyres based on the premise that N molecules are larger than O or CO2 molecules, and therefore take longer to bleed through the tyres. I notice that on the Reverb, they advise people not to touch the pressure for any reason. If they do not intend to have the pressure adjusted, and want the factory "air" pressure to last, they may use N to reduce the "bleedage" through the seals.

I really see no reason to go with any product besides the Gravity Dropper. They hydraulic ones all seem to suck for one reason or another.