currently have a 2014 32 Float 29 and I can say I am pretty disappointed in it. So now I have two options, do I upgrade the cartridgetot FIT4 or do I break the piggy bank and get a 34 Float. Would the extra stiffens make such a big difference in ride quality? I mostly ride trail and all mountain a few times a year.
I also read that the new 34 Float has a been better air spring than the older version.
Thank you for your feedback!
Consider forks other than Fox. Fox makes some nice forks, as do a number of mftrs. Don't limit your choice and get the best fork you can get within the budget you set.
currently have a 2014 32 Float 29 and I can say I am pretty disappointed in it. So now I have two options, do I upgrade the cartridgetot FIT4 or do I break the piggy bank and get a 34 Float. Would the extra stiffens make such a big difference in ride quality? I mostly ride trail and all mountain a few times a year.
I also read that the new 34 Float has a been better air spring than the older version.
Thank you for your feedback!
what aspect of your 32 are you disappointed in?
if its the fork's lack of rigidity, then buying a 34 might be a good idea
if its the shitty damping, "upgrading" your damper might help. i doubt it
if the fork's air spring is either too progressive (i.e. you've got the sag set up properly but aren't using much of its travel) or too linear (i.e. you've got the sage set up properly but keep bottoming the fork out) then depending on how the new air spring was tweaked the new 34 might be the answer
on those last two points, i recently had a chance to demo a bike with a new base-model 34 and thought the air spring (way to linear) and damper (couldn't tell it from first year ctd) were shit. i have a friend who bought a factory level 34 and swears its the bomb. so who knows
if you just want "the new shiny" then maybe buying the 34 will temporarily scratch that itch for you
"Nobody really gives a shit that you don't like the thing that you have no firsthand experience with." Dave
what aspect of your 32 are you disappointed in?
if its the fork's lack of rigidity, then buying a 34 might be a good idea
if its the shitty damping, ime, "upgrading" to the new fit4 damper won't help - i couldn't tell the different between it and the first generation ctd damper
if the fork's air spring is either too progressive (i.e. you've got the sag set up properly but aren't using much of its travel) or too linear (i.e. you've got the sage set up properly but keep bottoming the fork out) then depending on how the new air spring was tweaked the new 34 might be the answer
if you just want "the new shiny" then maybe buying the 34 will temporarily scratch that itch for you
The thing that is most annoying is the small bump compliance, of which I have none. I recently upgraded my rear shock from a Float CTD to the DB Inline and I am completely blown away by the difference it makes in the ride quality.
I also would like to start riding more aggressive trails and I think the 32 just wouldn't cut it. It is mostly a XC fork at the end of the day…
I have been pretty happy with the new 36 RC2 for both small bump absorption and ability to dial in ramp up for bigger hits.
Not certain if it works for 29r but the Manitou Mattoc felt great. The other answer would be Pike. Only had a couple of rides on one that was on a demo bike, it felt pretty good, but loads of people I know would take a Pike over a Fox any day of the year.
So who knows.
I have been pretty happy with the new 36 RC2 for both small bump absorption and ability to dial in ramp up for bigger hits.
Not certain if it works for 29r but the Manitou Mattoc felt great. The other answer would be Pike. Only had a couple of rides on one that was on a demo bike, it felt pretty good, but loads of people I know would take a Pike over a Fox any day of the year.
So who knows.
I can only go 130mm on my bike, which is a Canyon Nerve AL 29.
I am also considering a Pike. From what I read the 34 Float FIT4 and the Pike are more or less on the same level if you exclude the extra stiffness of the Pike which I am not really sure i would be needing.
Not certain if it works for 29r but the Manitou Mattoc felt great.
Manitou Marvel is the closest 29er comparable in non boost (Magnum is a Mattoc 29er boost). Has 32mm stanchions though.
"I know that heroes ride bicycles" - Joe Biden
Try a Suntour Auron. An awesome fork and you won't break the bank.
I had a bummer low end 34 in 2013. Upgrading the cartridge was a remarkably expensive proposition. So I sold the fork and added the money I would have spent on the cartridge and was nearly able to afford a new fork. I've been running a late model 36 and couldn't be happier. The Pike is an incredible fork too. The 32 is pinner - these much 35mm+ forks are much more robust and work way better.
There's nothing better than an Orangina after cheating death with Digger.
The thing that is most annoying is the small bump compliance, of which I have none.
try adjusting your rebound or riding faster
I recently upgraded my rear shock from a Float CTD to the DB Inline and I am completely blown away by the difference it makes in the ride quality.
unless the shock was mis-spec'd for your bike (unlikely) or improperly set up (more likely) the difference in ride quality is all in your mind (and your pocket book). given how you talk about bikes there is a 0% chance you set up your db inline well enough that it made a difference
I also would like to start riding more aggressive trails and I think the 32 just wouldn't cut it. It is mostly a XC fork at the end of the day…
why don't you try riding aggressive trails with it and find out?
wait, are you the guy who wanted to upgrade to 1x11 so you could ride more aggressively?
you need to spend less time reading advertorials and just ride your bloody bike
or just keep creating inane threads to get consumer validation from the herd for your insecurities :shrugs:
"Nobody really gives a shit that you don't like the thing that you have no firsthand experience with." Dave
why don't you try riding aggressive trails with it and find out?
wait, are you the guy who wanted to upgrade to 1x11 so you could ride more aggressively?
you need to spend less time reading advertorials and just ride your bloody bike
or just keep creating inane threads to get consumer validation from the herd for your insecurities :shrugs:
There is no such thing as a stupid question.
Shed head!
try adjusting your rebound or riding faster
unless the shock was mis-spec'd for your bike (unlikely) or improperly set up (more likely) the difference in ride quality is all in your mind (and your pocket book). given how you talk about bikes there is a 0% chance you set up your db inline well enough that it made a difference
why don't you try riding aggressive trails with it and find out?
wait, are you the guy who wanted to upgrade to 1x11 so you could ride more aggressively?
you need to spend less time reading advertorials and just ride your bloody bike
or just keep creating inane threads to get consumer validation from the herd for your insecurities :shrugs:
Thank you very much for your kind words. Your level of condescension really makes me have more faith in humanity. I am sorry I don't have the level of expertise that the North Shore people have and probably never will.
I am trying to get reliable information from people that actually know what they are doing, since I don't have the time or budget to test stuff all day long. If that is too much too ask for, I guess I will be on my way. Thank you again!
There is no such thing as a stupid question.
i hope you are joking
I am trying to get reliable information from people that actually know what they are doing, since I don't have the time or budget to test stuff all day long.
and i'm trying to give it to you!
like governments that rely on an ignorant electorate, most companies rely on ignorant consumers. they use advertising (both bought and earned) to fill your head with nonsense. "ride aggressively," "all mountain," "ride quality" - those are all buzzwords - they don't mean anything. they're meant to create in you a sense of angst and dissatisfaction that can only be momentarily assuaged by buying the new, shiny thing that's supposed to help improve the "ride quality" of your bike on "all mountain" trails, thereby enabling you to "ride aggressively"
if you could identify and articulate what is wrong with your current fork, you could get reliable information from folks here about what kind of adjust, upgrade or replacement would help you. but that's not what you are doing: you are looking for validation that buying something new and well-marketed will help you feel better
what is it you think your current damper is lacking?
what does a "better" air spring mean (to you)?
what is it about your current fork that has dissapointed you?
answer any of these questions and we can try to give you the reliable information you need to make an informed decision or purchase. keep trotting out buzzwords as if they meant anything and you're wasting everyone's time - most of all your own
"Nobody really gives a shit that you don't like the thing that you have no firsthand experience with." Dave
i hope you are joking
and i'm trying to give it to you!
like governments that rely on an ignorant electorate, most companies rely on ignorant consumers. they use advertising (both bought and earned) to fill your head with nonsense. "ride aggressively," "all mountain," "ride quality" - those are all buzzwords - they don't mean anything. they're meant to create in you a sense of angst and dissatisfaction that can only be momentarily assuaged by buying the new, shiny thing that's supposed to help improve the "ride quality" of your bike on "all mountain" trails, thereby enabling you to "ride aggressively"
if you could identify and articulate what is wrong with your current fork, you could get reliable information from folks here about what kind of adjust, upgrade or replacement would help you. but that's not what you are doing: you are looking for validation that buying something new and well-marketed will help you feel better
what is it you think your current damper is lacking?
what does a "better" air spring mean (to you)?
what is it about your current fork that has disappointed you?
answer any of these questions and we can try to give you the reliable information you need to make an informed decision or purchase. keep trotting out buzzwords as if they meant anything and you're wasting everyone's time - most of all your own
First of all let me put things into perspective a bit, maybe it will help. I am from a small country called Romanian where the mountain biking scene is, to put it mildly, in its infancy. Where buying a 2000 $ is considered extravagant and that has a total of 1 bike parks( 2 trails in total). There is no one i can go and ask, "how's that PIKE working out for you, can I try it?". My buying decisions are mostly guided by forums like this one.
Getting back to the topic at hand, I will reiterate my issue with the small bump compliance, and yes i have adjusted the rebound but it did not fix anything.
Also, my current Canyon Nerve, although is marketed as a trail bike I see it more of a glorified XC rig, so now I am trying to make it ride harder and faster as my skill level progresses. That's my a I shortened the stem and put on a larger handlebar and I liked it. That's why I upgraded the rear shock and I really do feel the difference now matter how much you argue against. And now I am at the fork department, trying to make best with what I have.
P.S. Non native english speakers are big on buzzwords. :)
Also, my current Canyon Nerve, although is marketed as a trail bike I see it more of a glorified XC rig, so now I am trying to make it ride harder and faster as my skill level progresses. That's my a I shortened the stem and put on a larger handlebar and I liked it. That's why I upgraded the rear shock and I really do feel the difference now matter how much you argue against. And now I am at the fork department, trying to make best with what I have.
P.S. Non native english speakers are big on buzzwords. :)
ok
it will be more expensive and less effective to buy a bunch of parts to make your xc bike better suited to faster and harder riding than it will be to simply sell it and buy a bike better suited to what you want. even now, unless there is NO used market in romania and you have no access to the european used market, you could sell your bike stock, and keep or sell what you've already upgrade, and almost certainly come out ahead in $ and performance
but if for whatever reason you are set on sticking with your nerve, upgrading your fork should make a noticeable difference to how capable and confidence inspiring it is. assuming you didn't spring for the highest end model, your nerve likely came with a "performance" level fox float 32, amiright? the lack of chasis rigidity and basic damper are both weaknesses for the kind of riding you are talking about
jumping to a factory 34 should work. i rode a performance version of that fork recently and it was pretty underwhelming. but i have friends who have the factory version and love it. looks to me like they have the same air spring and damper so personally i wouldn't spend money on it
edit: performance 34's damper has no low speed compression damping adjustability, and in my experience virtually no low or high speed compression damping in either the "open" or "trail" setting. while it should provide good "small bump compliance" at low speeds you're going to hate it if you start riding faster or harder, because it means there's no support to keep the air spring from immediately ripping through all of its travel on faster, harder or bigger hits, or when you slam on the brakes. factory might/should be better
jumping to a pike will make you feel like you've died and gone to heaven. chasis rigidity, air spring and damper are all better than the 34 in my opinion, and its likely to be cheaper. however, the pike's will likely require more "care" than a high end fox product, so consider whether you have either the personal ability to keep it running or access to good service.
other options mentioned above would probably serve you well, too. really, anything with a high end damper and larger diameter stanchions, and without fox's commitment to weightweenism, is going to be a step up. again though, consider your local or accessible options for support and service. edit: he's only done a few so far, but andrew major's "teardown" articles on suspension on this site will give you a really strong sense of how well made and/or durable a fork will be
or just get a fox 36, lower it to 130mm, and get the best of all possible worlds (ridiculous chassis stiffness, performance, adjustability and durability)
"Nobody really gives a shit that you don't like the thing that you have no firsthand experience with." Dave
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