Ok cool, the service instructions said to set to 203mm so yea. But I do know the positive and negative air is set by the one air chamber so if that is normal, thats cool.
I also just noticed my fork started topping out. I have about 30hrs on it and it just started doing it. I had two hard days of riding at sun peaks, and did another service when I got home and that where it stands now. And I just noticed that topping out issue now.
Rebound cartridge not working maybe?
My team sucks right out of the box.
No oil in lowers.
Stanchion are different shades(not really a big deal….But…)Streaking on stanchions
Unable to bottom out on medium spring so have to run soft spring for a 180lbs rider.
Unable to turn knobs out of the box. Had to disassemble several times.
I have even had to burp my fork!!!
All Boxxers are in a so called "quarantine" because of damper issues. Rockshock has not put out all of the official parts to fix the forks yet. From what I have heard it will be another week or so.
Rock shock has dropped the ball on this one. Vary disappointed.
mmmm….carbon
Are the same issues happening with the Race? Kinda glad I went with the WC afterall. Dryer than it should have been, but its quite good right now.
These are cases of the mountain bike industry introducing new product too often without having researched or tested them. Plus, finding cheaper suppliers to keep up with the demand of cheaper buyers and thus the quality can suffer because of it. Trying to keep things crazy light might not be such a good idea either.
I'll say it again, a lot of the features on forks are kind of gimmicky and don't offer much real world adjustability or performance perks. The added complexity in addition to small oil levels and tiny moving parts sometimes means shit will break or need constant servicing.
Rock Shox should re-introduce the Team with a large amount of oil, just a rebound adjuster, a good solid damper, and 2 sets of springs.
I've been following that Ridemonkey thread too. Same issues from the get-go with my 2010 Team.
Basically I tune the coil side every 5 hours. I'm 175 lbs and run the yellow(light) spring. The shrink wrap on the spring always migrates to teh top - let the loud rattle begin. I keep ALL the settings at zero clicks, it's too stiff otherwise, how retarded is this! I have cut an inch off the stopper and it still won't bottom out. This would be an awesome fork if it came with a technician.
If you have or want a 2010 Boxxer, my advice is to be patient. New parts are coming to fix all the existing forks. To me, this is the year one growing pains of most any new product.
this is almost word for word the conversation I received from Sram when they repeatedly tried to find a fix for my Totem 2step. Right up until the last time when they said, sorry we just can't fix it and offered me a new X9 drivetrain and conversion to solo air as compensation.
Good luck, I hope you 2010 owners have better fortune.
this is almost word for word the conversation I received from Sram when they repeatedly tried to find a fix for my Totem 2step. Right up until the last time when they said, sorry we just can't fix it and offered me a new X9 drivetrain and conversion to solo air as compensation.
Good luck, I hope you 2010 owners have better fortune.
Lets hope this turns out better than the TOTEM.
I have not spoken with SRAM. I have spoken with my LBS and read a particular document. SRAM is issuing parts out and the forks will get fixed. Basically every fork out there.
I must admit, my WC feels amazing. Better than my previous WC and that is a great fork. All the new adjusters on the 2010 actually make a difference. The first time turning them I almost cut my fingers, but after a few turns, they worked like a charm.
I'll give this debacle until August. By that time there should be real word from SRAM as to what they are doing. I've heard 2nd hand what their plans are, but I am not going to post up 2nd hand info because we all know how things on the net get very twisted.
The fixes are simple, they just need the parts and a simple overhaul.
**Now here is a suggestion to SRAM.
Colorado (July 30-Aug 2) / Whistler (Aug 8-16)
CRANKWORKS: Have a trailer with 5-10 techs all day with all the parts needed to do the 're-work' on 2010 Boxxers. Do the necessary work to ANYONE that shows up with a 2010 Boxxer on the spot.
That takes care of PR and gets real info to the people and gets a lot of happy customers. It won't help everyone, but its an attempt to help a lot of people in a concentrated riding area.
**
"If everything seems in control, you're not going fast enough."
-Mario Andretti-
Boxxowned
I keep ALL the settings at zero clicks, it's too stiff otherwise, how retarded is this!
What kind of suspension oil are you using?
Using a suspension oil with a lighter viscosity could potentially solve this problem.
Boxxowned
They don't call it the bleeding edge for nothing.
My team sucks right out of the box.
No oil in lowers.
Stanchion are different shades(not really a big deal….But…)Streaking on stanchions
Unable to bottom out on medium spring so have to run soft spring for a 180lbs rider.
Unable to turn knobs out of the box. Had to disassemble several times.
I have even had to burp my fork!!!
All Boxxers are in a so called "quarantine" because of damper issues. Rockshock has not put out all of the official parts to fix the forks yet. From what I have heard it will be another week or so.
Rock shock has dropped the ball on this one. Vary disappointed.
I'll give you $500 for it. This will seem like a good offer in 2 months.
What kind of suspension oil are you using?
Using a suspension oil with a lighter viscosity could potentially solve this problem.
Tried that too, currently using Motorex 7.5 weight(15 is recommended). Only a slight improvement, maybe.
Slick Honey on the seals also helps, but it doesn't last.
Slick Honey……..who locally to Vancouver sells it?
"If everything seems in control, you're not going fast enough."
-Mario Andretti-
Tried that too, currently using Motorex 7.5 weight(15 is recommended). Only a slight improvement, maybe.
Slick Honey on the seals also helps, but it doesn't last.
I have no clue about the new Boxxers, but with the old Boxxers and just about every other RS fork, 2 different types of oils were required.
15ml of 15wt in the lower tubes to keep the fork lubricated - this has nothing to do with the damping itself.
Rock Shox recommended using a 5wt oil for the damper unit, quite a bit if I recall correctly. Using a lighter oil (Motorex 2,5wt for instance) and putting it in the damper unit will result in drastic changes and possibly improvements.
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