While I've got my above mentioned fork torn down for a regular (yet much needed) maintenance, I'm wondering if there are any whiz-bang upgrades I oughta employ in its rebuild. I'm not in need of springing for a new cartridge or the like, just wondering if anyone has any minor yet effective upgrades to keep this fork's vibe alive.
Peace,
DS
PS - came stock on my 2008 RM SXC 90, been a killer bike since day one, and love it - all of it - all the time :)
"I'm addicted to surfing."
if your CSU is in good condition, meaning your stanchion tubes do not have visible wear
then look into the new SKF Low Friction fork seals, with a "lowers service" (basically a clean out of the lowers, and rebuild with fresh Fox Float fluid, suitable suspension grease and suspension fluid)
and I'd strongly suggest, if you can live without the TALAS travel adjustment, moving to a "Float" air spring setup
its not expensive and is easily done by a competent home wrench, and will literally transform the performance of your Fox fork by dramatically increasing small bump sensitivity and giving a more consistent performance from the air spring (the TALAS air spring is quite inconsistent in the different travel settings)
you will find with a Float setup and regulars lowers servicing, that fork performance gets very close to the coil sprung Vanilla model ;)
if your CSU is in good condition, meaning your stanchion tubes do not have visible wear
then look into the new SKF Low Friction fork seals, with a "lowers service" (basically a clean out of the lowers, and rebuild with fresh Fox Float fluid, suitable suspension grease and suspension fluid)
and I'd strongly suggest, if you can live without the TALAS travel adjustment, moving to a "Float" air spring setup
its not expensive and is easily done by a competent home wrench, and will literally transform the performance of your Fox fork by dramatically increasing small bump sensitivity and giving a more consistent performance from the air spring (the TALAS air spring is quite inconsistent in the different travel settings)
you will find with a Float setup and regulars lowers servicing, that fork performance gets very close to the coil sprung Vanilla model ;)
Thanks for this.
I actually really like the Talas for climbs. Maybe I'm getting old or just a loser, but ya, I like dropping it on the huff up.
BUT!!! What you've said - duly noted.
Thank you,
DS
"I'm addicted to surfing."
If I'm not mistaken your fork still has the compression adjusters on the bottom of the fork leg?
If so that's a damn good fork. I had nothing but trouble once they flipped the damper and took away the HSC.
I see the RC2 is available once again for 2013 with the Float, I may give it a try.
If I'm not mistaken your fork still has the compression adjusters on the bottom of the fork leg?
If so that's a damn good fork. I had nothing but trouble once they flipped the damper and took away the HSC.
I see the RC2 is available once again for 2013 with the Float, I may give it a try.
Correct. Has the comp adjust on the bottom, rebound and talas setting on the top.
Solid fork.
"I'm addicted to surfing."
Thanks for this.
I actually really like the Talas for climbs. Maybe I'm getting old or just a loser, but ya, I like dropping it on the huff up.
BUT!!! What you've said - duly noted.
Thank you,
DS
the interesting thing about the Float conversion is that the fork sits lower in its travel as the sag can be set properly for your weight and setup, and does not have the seal "drag" of the complex TALAS mech, which means the TALAS fork does not like to freely move until hit hard
the Talas often gives an "off" sag setting due to the inherent stickyness in the Talas mechanism, meaning the fork rides higher in its travel
the other really cool thing about Float is that you can reset the travel internally in 10mm increments using Fox's travel spacers
I did this when mounting my 36 Talas (converted to Float) on a Devinci Dixon (150mm FS) and found the 150mm with the increased sag was a "sweet spot" for this bike giving a slack 66 degree head angle and superior sensitivity which matched the awesome Split Pivot rear suspension
I just upgraded my 2011 Talas with the inverted damper and Kashima by buying a 55 RC3 Ti. Just a couple of rides on the new fork but I can't believe how much better and plusher it feels. I was suffering without knowing it for so long!
The hot set up for your old fork is get yourself the up graded bladder for the cartridge, it has 3 ribs on the closed end. It came out in 2009 I think. This will give the cartridge a little more linear feel to it. Do not use the new FOX 10wt oil, it will make your fork to slow in compression. Use 7.5wt Silkolene RSF, this is what FOX use to use in their forks (also maybe branded 'Fuchs') or Motorex.
If you are pulling the Talas unit apart, make sure you pump out all the old Float Fuild, as it gets sticky with age and makes the Talas feel slow. Put back in only 3cc of Float Float. There also may have been some oil transfer from the bottom left side into the Talas unit. This is what makes the Talas feel unresponsive some times.
Before you put new seals in the lowers, remove the bottom out bumper from inside the left lower leg, and put it in the right side with the one thats in there already. This will give more room for splash lube in the bottom of the left side. It will not effect the rightside performance. With the SKF seals, which is all FOX make for your forks now, make sure you smear a small amount of light grease, such as Shimano Dura Ace, around the inside of the seal before instalation. The interface between the fork seal and the lowers should be clean and dry before installing the seals. Soak the foam donut in a mix of suspension fluid and Float Fluid and then seat these under the fork seals once the seals are installed in the lowers. Slide the lowers onto the stantions, being carefull to not snag the foam donuts. A bit of wiggling back and forth maybe required.
You should run 20cc of splash lube in the bottom of the Talas side, 5cc of Float Fluid, 15cc of 7.5wt. Yes more than what FOX recommend. In the damper side run 60cc of splash fluid. 10cc of Float Fluid, 50cc of 7.5wt.
The Talas is agreat unit and very usefull for All Mountain riding. Treat it well and it will keep working for years. The 2012 2 stage Talas works even better if you decide to up grade.
Happy trails.:damn:
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