Looks like i'm going full xt on this build.
on a stiffee? do yourself a favour, downgrade to slx and buy a full suspension frame. if you really haven't been on a bike in 15 years, you should check out what the 21st century has to offer before dropping 2k on a new bike
"Nobody really gives a shit that you don't like the thing that you have no firsthand experience with." Dave
on a stiffee? do yourself a favour, downgrade to slx and buy a full suspension frame. if you really haven't been on a bike in 15 years, you should check out what the 21st century has to offer before dropping 2k on a new bike
+1
quite frankly, i prefer hardtail over full sus. A properly build hardtail will equal any full sus. I prefer to feel whats under me than just plow thru everything. For what i intend on using it for a full sus is a waste of money.
and thank you to all who helped in my original post, the decision was made and i ordered the 24/38 combo
u guys arent climbn the steeps…
Just remember it is driven over drive, ie if your big ring is 38 and your smallest cog is 11. 11/38= .289 as a final drive ratio. 24/36= 1.5 as your lowest drive ratio.
is going big on a bike the only way to get you stoked on the sport? what happened to riding with your bros, travelling, and riding unique places, to get people stoked on riding?
fines are useless. there needs to be more punches to the throat.
Ha too late but was planning on posting after trying out a new cassette last night. 26/38 up front, 11-36 rear. Plenty of gearing for cimbs, but seems like more useable gears in the little ring as well.
That's just it. For a lot of rolling terrain such as Bridle Path or Zappa Trails, the 38 is too big a gear and a 22 or 24 is kind of small. On my 26-38 double on my XC hardtail I end up in the 26 for much of the ride if not all. A single 32 works pretty well in those places and I think a 30 will be ideal but longer grinds like See Colours and Puke is too long and steep and I have to walk some of it.
Debate? Bikes are made for riding not pushing.
That's just it. For a lot of rolling terrain such as Bridle Path or Zappa Trails, the 38 is too big a gear and a 22 or 24 is kind of small. On my 26-38 double on my XC hardtail I end up in the 26 for much of the ride if not all. A single 32 works pretty well in those places and I think a 30 will be ideal but longer grinds like See Colours and Puke is too long and steep and I have to walk some of it.
FFS oldfart read your sig and get your gearing sorted out! NGE!
Cheers Ben
the Rocky altitudeI'm on has 24/36…I'm used to 34x36 as my mid ring on my reign, but find I can climb the 36 up a lot more than I would've expected, but I still like having the 24 as a bailout for the steep tech grinders. I don't think I'd personally want more than a 36 on a 2x10 as it's pretty versatile.
FFS oldfart read your sig and get your gearing sorted out! NGE!
Cheers Ben
Them's fightin' words Ben. Better get your ass up here for some stupid climbing.
Debate? Bikes are made for riding not pushing.
Them's fightin' words Ben. Better get your ass up here for some stupid climbing.
Luckily this is just teh internetz. I actually asked my LBS for a 22 chainring for the Nimby 50 last year (they said no, 22/36 you will fall off - too slow).
I am back to Oz soon and from memory the biggest hill where I used to live was about 100m high so I should do OK there!
Cheers Ben
This thread could be summed up to this:
For a 26er: Go with the bigger rings
For a 29er: Go with the smaller rings
(provided a 36t is used out back)
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