$140 carbon rims

Here's my question…why would you post this without offering any opinions or answers to many of the general questions about carbron rims posted on many forums including this one, or anything that's been asked or eluded to so far in this thread?

Apologies for that, I am new to forums and should have been on here a long time ago. I've picked some posts from 2014 to reply to.

they're slightly concave with rounded edges. Looks good to me.

Bryce - regarding using nipple washers with carbon rims, I am interested to hear how you made out with this. I have not had a nipples pull through a carbon rim before. Or if a customer has had that happen, I have not heard about it. So for this reason, I have not had washers as a high priority on my list. We are in retail now, so my priority for a no hassle wheel is higher than ever and I am revisiting this. Alloy nipples typically weigh 1/3 gram versus 1 gram for brass. A washer with alloy nipple might not yield any weight savings, so I suppose you were doing this for pull-through protection and not corrosion reasons? The best thing you can probably do to prevent nipple pull-through is to buy a tension meter so you know you are at the correct amount of tension.

Would it make sense to get a dh rear wheel and an AM front wheel?
I have taco'd one front wheel in my lifetime and my stock demo wheel is still straight as fuck from 2 full seasons of bike park hackery.

My usual recommendation is to build a burlier rear wheel and a lighter front wheel. Whether it's alloy nipples on the front instead of brass, lighter front spokes, less spoke count, or a lighter rim, it all makes good sense to me to consider your options. I've never had anyone say "I wish we went with the burly build on the front also". If you destroy a front wheel, that "usually" means you've done something well above and beyond your normal scope of riding.

Would it make sense to get a dh rear wheel and an AM front wheel?
I have taco'd one front wheel in my lifetime and my stock demo wheel is still straight as fuck from 2 full seasons of bike park hackery.

Is there a reason why this kind of thing isn't more common? Heavy duty rear wheel, lighter weight front wheel? Is it a balance thing?

ya i dunno why its not more common. Keep the front light and nimble, keep the back strong.

I think it is not as common for 2 main reasons. The first being it costs companies more money to do a different set up for the front. For example, you could have to stock more spokes because the size or the gauge is different. The rims could even pop out of the same mould but have a different wall thickness or have less holes drilled in it. As soon as you change the item, your inventory has to increase. Inventory is one of the biggest considerations for a business because of the large financial implications. Customer service costs also rise if you offer more options for a product.

Another main reason is that customers (or the perception a business has of their customers) is that they like things to match. I like to do things like build with back brass nipples for the back wheel and black alloy up front, or thicker walls in the rear rim, or offer a slightly different spoke gauge. This way you can maintain the same look and get the weight savings.

Just built a 30mm hookless front 29 to a hope pro 2 with revolution spokes (288/286). Wow are these rims stiff! Super noticeable coming from an easton xct.

Nice build. I like building with the DT Revolution Spokes, I would just avoid using them on the rear drive side. They wind up more than a thicker spoke, but you can account for that when building. The Rev's are quite strong considering their low weight. They also stretch out a bit more than you might be used to, so you likely will have to re-tension them from time to time, but especially after the first 2-3 rides. Another consideration when building with round spokes that are 1.4-1.6 mm in the middle, is that you would typically get a length 1mm shorter than normal (where possible), due to the stretch.