Posted by: fartymarty
Andrew - I would give too much of a shit to the point of paranoia.
Have you tried beer while working on others bikes. It helps me give just the right amount of shits when working on my or a family members bike.
But seriously, it's just bikes, few equipment failures result in significant casualties. It's not like repairing a rock climbing harness or something.
Posted by: joseph-crabtree
Andrew, since someone brought up automotive and such. One thing I laugh at in the last few years is in somethings the sales talking point of "military grade". LOL....military grade is really the piece of crap made by the lowest bidder.
LOL, reminds me of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum... yeah, and just about every other structural aluminum application too.
Out of interest I checked out the 16 job postings at this link: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/round-up-15-bike-industry-jobs-available-right-now.html
4 noted a salary range:
- Trash Free Trails x 2
- Yeti
- We Are One
Posted by: AndrewMajor
Posted by: Endurimil
Andrew, since someone brought up automotive and such. One thing I laugh at in the last few years is in somethings the sales talking point of "military grade". LOL....military grade is really the piece of crap made by the lowest bidder.
I heard ~ this mentioned once in the presence of a bike mechanic who had formerly been a tank mechanic for the CAF and his reply was something along the lines of "military-grade may mean the minimum acceptable quality, but at least there is a minimum acceptable quality."
LOL....ex Canadian Army Reserve Infantry. And that "minimal acceptable quality" is also subject to change without notice.
Posted by: kcy4130
Posted by: fartymarty
Andrew - I would give too much of a shit to the point of paranoia.
Have you tried beer while working on others bikes. It helps me give just the right amount of shits when working on my or a family members bike.
But seriously, it's just bikes, few equipment failures result in significant casualties. It's not like repairing a rock climbing harness or something.
I quit drinking 10 or so years back so have to pass on that one (read - boring middle aged dad). I do work on the kids bikes but they're not overly stressed.
I wouldn't even think of repairing a climbing harness - those are going straight in the bin.
Edit - I rebuilt my Hopes last night with the aid of a little mint tea and some Lee Scratch Perry - that worked a treat.
No Boring Bikes
Andrew - could you flip a left thumbie upside down and run it as an under bar shifter on the right?
Once i'm done with my big ride* in July I'm tempted to try the wide(ish) 6. * I need all 10 speeds until then.
Re: No Boring Bikes- back in the earlier days of riding extra-janky technical singletrack (and long before 1x had found it's way to anything that wasn't a DH bike...) I used to run a 32/22 2x up front, and I used an XT thumbshifter to allow me to set the front derailleur just right for chain retention. Even then it got lots of looks ("What's wrong with RapidFire?" they'd ask), but god did it work well.
I'm old enough to have raced on friction downtube shifters- and while I've no urge to go back to those days, I'll say that getting a friction shift *just right* is a special sort of joy. It's a little like when you rev-match a downshift on a manual transmission and you bang-on get it.
Posted by: fartymarty
No Boring Bikes
Andrew - could you flip a left thumbie upside down and run it as an under bar shifter on the right?
Once i'm done with my big ride* in July I'm tempted to try the wide(ish) 6. * I need all 10 speeds until then.
Technically yes, but it doesn’t work as well (ergonomics, especially in Friction mode) and the left/front shifter doesn’t have as much throw if you’re trying to make it work with wider range cassettes.
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The problem with wide(ish) 6 is the rear derailleur clearance with big cogs moved outboard. Much less of an issue with SRAM but with Shimano Shadow the go/no-go with each shift is tricky (in my experience).
I’m running tight 6 on my ATB (11-25). But playing with difference stuff for the MTB.
Posted by: nothingfuture
Re: No Boring Bikes- back in the earlier days of riding extra-janky technical singletrack (and long before 1x had found it's way to anything that wasn't a DH bike...) I used to run a 32/22 2x up front, and I used an XT thumbshifter to allow me to set the front derailleur just right for chain retention. Even then it got lots of looks ("What's wrong with RapidFire?" they'd ask), but god did it work well.
I'm old enough to have raced on friction downtube shifters- and while I've no urge to go back to those days, I'll say that getting a friction shift *just right* is a special sort of joy. It's a little like when you rev-match a downshift on a manual transmission and you bang-on get it.
The multi-indexed GripShift front shifters were great for that too. Way fewer dropped chains.
Friction Thumbies are easier to operate in the heat of battle than down tube shifters but harder than indexed Thumbies and those are trickier than triggers. I love hitting a perfect shift, and also not shifting superfluously when a little grunt will do.
You should (MTB, Thumbie) friction shifting!!! Perfect candidate. Or don’t, I mean I know the selling points are a bit suspect.
Posted by: nothingfuture
Re: No Boring Bikes- back in the earlier days of riding extra-janky technical singletrack (and long before 1x had found it's way to anything that wasn't a DH bike...) I used to run a 32/22 2x up front, and I used an XT thumbshifter to allow me to set the front derailleur just right for chain retention. Even then it got lots of looks ("What's wrong with RapidFire?" they'd ask), but god did it work well.
I'm old enough to have raced on friction downtube shifters- and while I've no urge to go back to those days, I'll say that getting a friction shift *just right* is a special sort of joy. It's a little like when you rev-match a downshift on a manual transmission and you bang-on get it.
That is such a good idea! Have 2x on my old 26 hardtail that I now just use as a flat bar gravel bike. And no how the front derailleur is adjusted it'll rub slightly at some point on the cassette. I should get a friction shifter for it.
Posted by: AndrewMajor
The problem with wide(ish) 6 is the rear derailleur clearance with big cogs moved outboard. Much less of an issue with SRAM but with Shimano Shadow the go/no-go with each shift is tricky (in my experience).
I’m running tight 6 on my ATB (11-25). But playing with difference stuff for the MTB.
Wide 6 - i'm looking to use cut up a 11-36 - put the 36 in 2nd gear position (same as my 11-42). This will work with my Zee mech. It's not a proper wide range but 30/36 should be doable.
Posted by: fartymarty
Wide 6 - i'm looking to use cut up a 11-36 - put the 36 in 2nd gear position (same as my 11-42). This will work with my Zee mech. It's not a proper wide range but 30/36 should be doable.
Oh, for sure then. I’m running 8/10 cogs for a 28x11-36t setup with a Zee mech and it’s fine with the 36t spaced into what would 3rd gear position.
If you want to run a thumbie under the bars you can use either of these guys.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/kjalgjoihjga44451
https://www.rivbike.com/products/sunrace-one-at-a-time-thumb-shifter-right-side
Steam punk in modern mtb would be a pair of them under the bars, mod the left one to operate your dropper. Why not just a regular dropper remote? Because symmetry matters.
Someone needs to hack up a way to get an 11-48 9spd, just enough range and the jumps won't be too bad.
Posted by: earleb
Steam punk in modern mtb would be a pair of them under the bars, mod the left one to operate your dropper. Why not just a regular dropper remote? Because symmetry matters.
Symmetry doesn’t matter that much. I looked at trying to make my front shifter smooth enough that it would pivot back into place just from the spring tension from my post of the cable (like a regular remote). Have fun with that!
Posted by: earleb
Someone needs to hack up a way to get an 11-48 9spd, just enough range and the jumps won't be too bad.
As long as it’s 12-spd spacing so the 48t sits outboard for better chain line I’m interested. Not sure if any current derailleur could shift that though - may need a purpose built drivetrain at that point.
It’s a mountain bike. I just run a 28t ring and find 28x11-36t is fine. Even on the road - but I do come from single speeding I guess.
Posted by: AndrewMajor
Posted by: earleb
Steam punk in modern mtb would be a pair of them under the bars, mod the left one to operate your dropper. Why not just a regular dropper remote? Because symmetry matters.
Symmetry doesn’t matter that much. I looked at trying to make my front shifter smooth enough that it would pivot back into place just from the spring tension from my post of the cable (like a regular remote). Have fun with that!
Posted by: earleb
Someone needs to hack up a way to get an 11-48 9spd, just enough range and the jumps won't be too bad.
As long as it’s 12-spd spacing so the 48t sits outboard for better chain line I’m interested. Not sure if any current derailleur could shift that though - may need a purpose built drivetrain at that point.
It’s a mountain bike. I just run a 28t ring and find 28x11-36t is fine. Even on the road - but I do come from single speeding I guess.
Press out the friction guts and then press in a bearing. A lathe and a mill should take care of any other bits n gubbins needed to make it work.
Also the solution for your missing thumbie top cap. I need to order some brass next time I order materials.
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