I'll admit my installation frustrations were mostly a result of being rushed, inattentive, and trying to multi-task helping a customer at the local co-op while doing this. I did make measurements (I even busted out our newest tape measure and the ultra fine sharpie!) but the mistake I made was lack of confidence making me feel like I needed to leave the cable uncut past the cable clamp, and then when I fit the cable clamp into it's seat on the post actuator I mistakenly put the bent over excess cable "backward" in such a way that it drastically limited my ability to rotate the cable and pry open the actuator lever to get it back out of the assembly. Not to mention the 2 broken drill bits while making the hole on the backside of the direct mount derailleur reinforcement plate (steel) for cable entry into the seattube. I left my good and sharp drillbits at work and was pretty bummed when the co-op staff member informed me that the trashed bits that I was using _were_ from the newest set that we were hoping to keep safe from the more "high wear" tool users.
Now I don't know if the higher end KS posts use a different actuator linkage part, but the one on the budget e10 models has caused me some pretty major frustrations as I have become more experienced with them, but with some measurement and proper order of operations I'll agree that they aren't too bad to install, but having the cable clamp at the actuator is pretty annoying for those of us who are more likely to make several smaller cuts to get the housing length juuuust right. They are a half decent low-budget solution within the limited options for 27.2 posts, but the next time I need a 27.2 dropper, I'm putting down the extra dough for the PNW Components options. Or hell, maybe I'll just use a Trans-X Jump Seat so I don't need to run a remote and cable at all.
Aug. 10, 2022, 8:51 a.m. - Jake Smith
I'll admit my installation frustrations were mostly a result of being rushed, inattentive, and trying to multi-task helping a customer at the local co-op while doing this. I did make measurements (I even busted out our newest tape measure and the ultra fine sharpie!) but the mistake I made was lack of confidence making me feel like I needed to leave the cable uncut past the cable clamp, and then when I fit the cable clamp into it's seat on the post actuator I mistakenly put the bent over excess cable "backward" in such a way that it drastically limited my ability to rotate the cable and pry open the actuator lever to get it back out of the assembly. Not to mention the 2 broken drill bits while making the hole on the backside of the direct mount derailleur reinforcement plate (steel) for cable entry into the seattube. I left my good and sharp drillbits at work and was pretty bummed when the co-op staff member informed me that the trashed bits that I was using _were_ from the newest set that we were hoping to keep safe from the more "high wear" tool users. Now I don't know if the higher end KS posts use a different actuator linkage part, but the one on the budget e10 models has caused me some pretty major frustrations as I have become more experienced with them, but with some measurement and proper order of operations I'll agree that they aren't too bad to install, but having the cable clamp at the actuator is pretty annoying for those of us who are more likely to make several smaller cuts to get the housing length juuuust right. They are a half decent low-budget solution within the limited options for 27.2 posts, but the next time I need a 27.2 dropper, I'm putting down the extra dough for the PNW Components options. Or hell, maybe I'll just use a Trans-X Jump Seat so I don't need to run a remote and cable at all.