I have to go through this process when changing shifter housing, but also when I installed the new brakes I bought. The ports on my Ripmo AF are quite small, have no guide tubes, and the shifter housing re-enters the chainstay for extra fun, so it's a good example of a challenge.
Tip 1 - make a small hook on the the end of a spare spoke, so you can fish the cable out of the exit port. I need a flashlight to see when it's passed by the port.
Tip 2 - When the housing/lines are run through, to make sure they're quiet in the downtube, shove the all possible loose housing/lines into the tube, so they are tight against the inside surface of the tube (no movement). I wrap the housing in electrical tape at the appropriate locations by the ports so when I screw the ports back in, the tape acts as "blocks" keeping the housing shoved in. Mark the housing where the "blocks" need to be wrapped.
Tip 3 - \[Related to tip 2\] Size the housing/lines from the back to the front. Account for appropriate derailleur cable loop or rear brake routing, then work your way forward. Find the good spot for your lower downtube "block", mark it and hold it there, then shove housing/lines into the downtube from the top end, and find the good spot for your upper downtube "block" (mark it). When the blocks have been made, housing/line has been shoved, and the ports have been put back in place, size the appropriate loop to your shifter/brake lever.
Mega faff, for sure, but once the process is worked out, I don't think special tools would help much.
June 28, 2022, 9:27 a.m. - Mammal
I have to go through this process when changing shifter housing, but also when I installed the new brakes I bought. The ports on my Ripmo AF are quite small, have no guide tubes, and the shifter housing re-enters the chainstay for extra fun, so it's a good example of a challenge. Tip 1 - make a small hook on the the end of a spare spoke, so you can fish the cable out of the exit port. I need a flashlight to see when it's passed by the port. Tip 2 - When the housing/lines are run through, to make sure they're quiet in the downtube, shove the all possible loose housing/lines into the tube, so they are tight against the inside surface of the tube (no movement). I wrap the housing in electrical tape at the appropriate locations by the ports so when I screw the ports back in, the tape acts as "blocks" keeping the housing shoved in. Mark the housing where the "blocks" need to be wrapped. Tip 3 - \[Related to tip 2\] Size the housing/lines from the back to the front. Account for appropriate derailleur cable loop or rear brake routing, then work your way forward. Find the good spot for your lower downtube "block", mark it and hold it there, then shove housing/lines into the downtube from the top end, and find the good spot for your upper downtube "block" (mark it). When the blocks have been made, housing/line has been shoved, and the ports have been put back in place, size the appropriate loop to your shifter/brake lever. Mega faff, for sure, but once the process is worked out, I don't think special tools would help much.