Yes and no.
I have an effectively non-Boost crank chainline with a Boost rear hub (details below), and when pedaling backwards on the 10t, I can feel the chain catching very slightly on next bigger cog. But, when actually pedaling forward on the 10t I haven't noticed anything. I think the tension on the chain helps straighten it enough to not catch. It might be rubbing slightly, but I'm not putting down max watts on that 10t often enough to notice any adverse effects.
Details: GX Eagle 10-50t cassette and RaceFace "Boost" direct-mount crank (though the Boost-ness is really decided by the ring or spider on a DM setup) with a 2x bashring-compatible spider on it. The 2x setup puts the "middle" spot (inner spot empty, outer spot has a bashring) at ~53mm, and I then shift it in-board by ~3mm with chainring spacers, and also shifted the whole crank ~1mm inboard via the spindle spacers Raceface provides for this purpose. This brings the chainring pretty close to a non-Boost 49mm 1x chainline.
May 25, 2022, 10:46 a.m. - Justin White
Yes and no. I have an effectively non-Boost crank chainline with a Boost rear hub (details below), and when pedaling backwards on the 10t, I can feel the chain catching very slightly on next bigger cog. But, when actually pedaling forward on the 10t I haven't noticed anything. I think the tension on the chain helps straighten it enough to not catch. It might be rubbing slightly, but I'm not putting down max watts on that 10t often enough to notice any adverse effects. Details: GX Eagle 10-50t cassette and RaceFace "Boost" direct-mount crank (though the Boost-ness is really decided by the ring or spider on a DM setup) with a 2x bashring-compatible spider on it. The 2x setup puts the "middle" spot (inner spot empty, outer spot has a bashring) at ~53mm, and I then shift it in-board by ~3mm with chainring spacers, and also shifted the whole crank ~1mm inboard via the spindle spacers Raceface provides for this purpose. This brings the chainring pretty close to a non-Boost 49mm 1x chainline.