I love the drill and stacked blades for the seat tube method. That's great. I also like the idea of highlighting the infrequent-but-still-loved tools with an article.
For the head tube job, it was a just a very slow careful process. First mark the end game length with a scribe around the OD of the head tube, and file 'er down that far. Then use a reliably flat steel item and sand paper to hone it from there. It turns out forward strokes take off more than reverse strokes, so I just went around honing in different orientations until the calipers told me I was done. It worked, but I wouldn't want to do that again. An '07 Norco Team DH has plenty of head tube to spare, and yeah, in '07/'08 I raced with an 800mm trials flat bar (they actually had a nice sweep). The sketchiest job was actually firing out the old stainless King DH headset, those have like 40mm insertion depth. I cut them down to around 20mm before reinstalling, just in case I needed them out again.
April 12, 2022, 9:44 a.m. - Mammal
I love the drill and stacked blades for the seat tube method. That's great. I also like the idea of highlighting the infrequent-but-still-loved tools with an article. For the head tube job, it was a just a very slow careful process. First mark the end game length with a scribe around the OD of the head tube, and file 'er down that far. Then use a reliably flat steel item and sand paper to hone it from there. It turns out forward strokes take off more than reverse strokes, so I just went around honing in different orientations until the calipers told me I was done. It worked, but I wouldn't want to do that again. An '07 Norco Team DH has plenty of head tube to spare, and yeah, in '07/'08 I raced with an 800mm trials flat bar (they actually had a nice sweep). The sketchiest job was actually firing out the old stainless King DH headset, those have like 40mm insertion depth. I cut them down to around 20mm before reinstalling, just in case I needed them out again.