No reason you couldn’t make a reverse Telescoping post. Just need a seat post with the right ID and a clamp with the right OD. I actually made such an animal once, which I called an up-stick, so I could have the post on my 2-Step be both high enough and low enough. I’d remove the up-stick at the top of a climb and put it in my pack.
I want to say the frame was 27.0, the outer post was 30.9, and then the upper post was 27.0 as well. I had a QR on the frame, a bolt-on collar where the frame insert (27.0) went into the outer and then that had a QR for the part of the post that held my seat. It was very usable even if it sounds like a PIA now.
Just doing a mast I could have taken the 30.9 OD / 27.2 ID post and just added a slit and clamp at the bottom. Would want about 4” of overlap between what I left in the frame and that external post.
Posts come with all difference IDs so it would be a matter if micing a few to find what matches the OD of what’s left behind.
March 14, 2022, 2:34 p.m. - Andrew Major
No reason you couldn’t make a reverse Telescoping post. Just need a seat post with the right ID and a clamp with the right OD. I actually made such an animal once, which I called an up-stick, so I could have the post on my 2-Step be both high enough and low enough. I’d remove the up-stick at the top of a climb and put it in my pack. I want to say the frame was 27.0, the outer post was 30.9, and then the upper post was 27.0 as well. I had a QR on the frame, a bolt-on collar where the frame insert (27.0) went into the outer and then that had a QR for the part of the post that held my seat. It was very usable even if it sounds like a PIA now. Just doing a mast I could have taken the 30.9 OD / 27.2 ID post and just added a slit and clamp at the bottom. Would want about 4” of overlap between what I left in the frame and that external post. Posts come with all difference IDs so it would be a matter if micing a few to find what matches the OD of what’s left behind.