I read an article probably 20 years ago now about lacing. Shimano had built a large number of road wheels with all the lacing possibilities. Gave them to their pro teams to ride and race on. Symmetrical heads in pulling, symmetrical heads out pulling, asymmetrical heads in pulling drive etc. My recollection was that heads in pulling on the drive side was very slightly Less likely to break but there was very little real difference. The only time I’ve had spokes break from fatigue was when I used those really light DT Revolution Race (I think).
I’ve had issues with carbon rimmed wheels loosing rear spoke tension after a season or two. The Zipp 303 cross tubular rear wheel became super loose but I retentioned it and it was fine. I concluded it was simply poorly built. But then those rims melted a bit from braking heat and were replaced. Then the front hub was recalled. I ain’t buying no Zipp products again. My Enve M30 had creaking spokes on the rear which ultimately was permanently fixed with a rebuild with new spokes. Same with the used set I bought for another bike. I could feel the difference though between the ENVE 29er wheels which replaced the Stan’s Arch rimmed wheels. Better acceleration feel. And damn tough. Lots of rim strikes but never any damage. But I don’t weigh much. 140 ish
For me the carbon rims offer no fuss durability. I rarely need to true them up whereas when I was on aluminum rims that was more frequently needed.
The last time I damaged a rim it was an aluminum Stan’s rim. I must have centre punched something because although the rim was still round and true, the rim bed had a crack a couple cm long right through the rim tape.
But when I buy a bike I don’t necessarily look for carbon rims. I look at the whole package and often to get the brakes and drivetrain I want, there will be a carbon frame and wheels with it.
Sept. 4, 2020, 12:17 p.m. - Andy Eunson
I read an article probably 20 years ago now about lacing. Shimano had built a large number of road wheels with all the lacing possibilities. Gave them to their pro teams to ride and race on. Symmetrical heads in pulling, symmetrical heads out pulling, asymmetrical heads in pulling drive etc. My recollection was that heads in pulling on the drive side was very slightly Less likely to break but there was very little real difference. The only time I’ve had spokes break from fatigue was when I used those really light DT Revolution Race (I think). I’ve had issues with carbon rimmed wheels loosing rear spoke tension after a season or two. The Zipp 303 cross tubular rear wheel became super loose but I retentioned it and it was fine. I concluded it was simply poorly built. But then those rims melted a bit from braking heat and were replaced. Then the front hub was recalled. I ain’t buying no Zipp products again. My Enve M30 had creaking spokes on the rear which ultimately was permanently fixed with a rebuild with new spokes. Same with the used set I bought for another bike. I could feel the difference though between the ENVE 29er wheels which replaced the Stan’s Arch rimmed wheels. Better acceleration feel. And damn tough. Lots of rim strikes but never any damage. But I don’t weigh much. 140 ish For me the carbon rims offer no fuss durability. I rarely need to true them up whereas when I was on aluminum rims that was more frequently needed. The last time I damaged a rim it was an aluminum Stan’s rim. I must have centre punched something because although the rim was still round and true, the rim bed had a crack a couple cm long right through the rim tape. But when I buy a bike I don’t necessarily look for carbon rims. I look at the whole package and often to get the brakes and drivetrain I want, there will be a carbon frame and wheels with it.