#!markdown
Rubbing on 2013 and 2014 Talas 36 160 & 180?
First, I'm a HUGE Hope brake fan. I run them on my trail, freeride and fat
bikes.
One recurring problem i have with Hope 203 Rotors is the rubbing of the 203
rotor spider against the posts on FOX Talas Forks with my Chris King ISO hubs.
It seems that the allowable tolerances of ISO hubs, brake mounts, caliper
bodies, adapters and rotors can allow some minor (about .145mm, yes a hair
width) to occur. So you can set up everything to near perfect, and then get
out on the trail, and there is enough flex in the fork+wheel+hub to allow the
rotor to rubon the Fox post mounts. This shows on the rotor spider; the
anodizing is rubbed off. (yes it is real and consistent, I check on every
36+King+hope set up i see out there) Essentially, the location of the rotor
spider on the ISO hub is too far out from the hub center. In some cases, this
offset is pronounced enough that it biases the Hope caliper to one side and
prevents proper centering of the pads. (about 0.75mm)
If you use one-piece rotors, there is no contacts. Some 2-piece rotors work
too. Some people file the inside surfaces of the fork brake mounts. I tried a
1mm spacer on my 20mm axles to keep the forks open more. (it worked but I
decided it was potentially stressing the seals) My current solution was to
take my suite of 203 rotors to my machinist and have 1mm removed from the
inside of the rotor spider. This moves the rotor inside and towards the center
neutral location of the ISO standard. I have used the hubs all season with no
compromise or weakening that I can detect.
It only seems to be a problem with Hope 203 rotors in Chris King ISO front
hubs and 36mm Fox stanchions. IT's worth
Have fun out there.
Sept. 2, 2015, 10:50 a.m. - Nomad
#!markdown Rubbing on 2013 and 2014 Talas 36 160 & 180? First, I'm a HUGE Hope brake fan. I run them on my trail, freeride and fat bikes. One recurring problem i have with Hope 203 Rotors is the rubbing of the 203 rotor spider against the posts on FOX Talas Forks with my Chris King ISO hubs. It seems that the allowable tolerances of ISO hubs, brake mounts, caliper bodies, adapters and rotors can allow some minor (about .145mm, yes a hair width) to occur. So you can set up everything to near perfect, and then get out on the trail, and there is enough flex in the fork+wheel+hub to allow the rotor to rubon the Fox post mounts. This shows on the rotor spider; the anodizing is rubbed off. (yes it is real and consistent, I check on every 36+King+hope set up i see out there) Essentially, the location of the rotor spider on the ISO hub is too far out from the hub center. In some cases, this offset is pronounced enough that it biases the Hope caliper to one side and prevents proper centering of the pads. (about 0.75mm) If you use one-piece rotors, there is no contacts. Some 2-piece rotors work too. Some people file the inside surfaces of the fork brake mounts. I tried a 1mm spacer on my 20mm axles to keep the forks open more. (it worked but I decided it was potentially stressing the seals) My current solution was to take my suite of 203 rotors to my machinist and have 1mm removed from the inside of the rotor spider. This moves the rotor inside and towards the center neutral location of the ISO standard. I have used the hubs all season with no compromise or weakening that I can detect. It only seems to be a problem with Hope 203 rotors in Chris King ISO front hubs and 36mm Fox stanchions. IT's worth Have fun out there.