Uncle Dave
Your Rebound is Too Slow
Before we start, this is the second article in a likely series about suspension data as collected with the Motion Instruments data acquisition system. See here for the first article, and here for a detailed read on how it works, what we’re measuring and how Motion Instruments suggest that we tune things.
Okay. That’s a little bit of clickbait. I don’t actually know that your rebound is too slow. You might have this all figured out already. I thought I had it all figured out! A few times. Then I looked at the data again. And then I looked at different data. And then I wasn’t so sure. One thing I have concluded though, there’s a lot more to this rebound damping thing than we’ve been told by manufacturers! It’s almost like there’s no one setup for everybody and everything. I mean, who knew, right?
Packing
You’re a waist high whippersnapper. The training wheels just came off. You’ve got a piece of grass stickin’ out your mouth and you’re whittlin’ a stick. You’re getting ready to jam that stick in the end of a hotdog, and then you’re going to cook it over a fire. Granddad is sitting there beside you, driftin’ in and out of sleep. Is he snoring? How does he do that? Then he springs to life! “Boy! Did I ever tell you about packin’?” You get pretty excited! Is this the talk? It starts off pretty well. “There’s a man and a woman and they’re driving down a road together.” I’m listening, granddad! “And then you hit some bumps! Washboard they call it. And you hit the first bump, and that’s okay. But the second bump…well! Your suspension doesn’t have the oomph to get ‘er back up to full extension! And with each bump, the suspension is gettin’ lower, and lower, and lower. Pretty soon, you’re just bangin’ metal on metal, like a hippie hittin’ a tin a’ beans against the door of a train as he clicky clacks down the rails to nowhere!” Granddad is obsessed with hippies, for some reason.
This is how we learn about packing. We’re told some legend about driving on washboard. It’s a horrendous thing that happens to morons! That doesn’t happen to us! We’ve never ridden across a row of braking bumps and come out the backside with our suspension fork bouncin’ off the stops! Of course our suspension isn’t packing! And if our suspension isn’t packing, well, our rebound can’t be too slow then, can it?
This is the problem with extreme examples. Sometimes, when we simplify things to gain an understanding, we squash the nuance out of it. I think how we explain rebound damping has lead to many of us running too much rebound damping. Myself included.
The Packing Continuum
What I’ve come to learn is that packing isn’t a binary on/off thing. It’s not either happening or not happening. It’s more of a continuum.
To understand what that means, we have to talk a bit about a sort of idealized shock stroke. Imagine you’re cruising into a bump, perfectly weighted, so you’re at your target sag front and back. You hit that bump, your suspension compresses until it hits equilibrium between the force from the bump and the force from your spring. It then pauses for a teensy little moment, and then your spring starts pushing back, extending your suspension. What you’d like to have happen at this point is for your suspension to extend back to your sag point as quickly as possible without overshooting too far, or oscillating too much. So, when we talk about rebound damping, all we’re really talking about is how quickly and controlled your fork is settling back to equilibrium (i.e. sag point), and ready for the next bump.
The thing is, there’s always going to be a bump that comes at you more quickly than your suspension will be ready for! If the trail is really smooth and the bumps are spaced far apart, your suspension doesn’t have to react very quickly in order to be ready of that next bump. As the time between bumps decreases, your suspension has to react faster and faster to be ready. Take that out to its conclusion, and what that says is that at some point all suspension will pack, in that there is a theoretical series of bumps that come too quickly for it to recover in time. All suspension will eventually be dealing with multiple hits that cause it to compress from a point deeper than sag. This starts to get into some “could god microwave a burrito that would get so hot that even he would burn his mouth?” type of weed philosophy. But the faster you go, and the bumpier things get, the quicker your suspension needs to recover to be ready for the next bump.
And that’s an important adjustment that I needed to make when it came to my rebound damping. I moved from a mentality of “not so slow that it is packing” to one of “fast enough to recover quickly for the next bump”. Leaving the extreme examples behind allowed me to accept that I may never be able to fully avoid packing, but the faster I run my rebound, the less likely it is to happen. For all those doubters, how fast do you think Richie Rude is running his rebound here?
Taking Things to the Real World
Now that we’ve decried using extreme examples to prove a point, let’s use an extreme example to prove a point! I was sitting at the bottom of Seymour one day, waiting for a ride partner to show up. I had all of my data acquisition gear installed on the bike and I was just about to take it off. I looked over, saw a nice little staircase, and wondered if I could use it to demonstrate some things with my suspension. I took a few runs at the staircase, starting with everything quite open, gradually closing off my rebound damping with each successive run. This proved to be a really great way to demonstrate differences in rebound damping.
Before we get to that, we need to talk a little bit about what we’re looking at. While the Motion Instruments app is very useful, and can point you in the right direction very quickly, it doesn’t show you the details of how your suspension is moving. I wanted to get right in there and see if I was able to visualize packing, so I had to take things a little bit further. I spent a bunch of time playing around in excel, trying to match the results that I was getting from the Motion Instruments app. Once I had that, I pushed everything into PowerBI so that I could play around with it more easily. This allowed me to plot my suspension position vs. time and then filter in to look at specific sections of trail. Once that was working, I started to compare sections of trail side-by-side that had been ridden with different settings, and to calculate various attributes (i.e. max suspension speeds, travel, dynamic sag, etc.) for those sections.
Each graph:
- Represents the percentage of travel. So, that’s the percentage of 150mm of travel in the rear, and the percentage of 160mm travel for the Fox 36 and 170mm of travel for the Formula Selva.
- Holds time as a constant, comparing the same number of samples, not the same distance travelled on the trail. I did this so it would make suspension speeds more obvious. A steeper line equals a faster speed. The challenge though, is that the distance isn’t fixed so each comparison isn’t over the exact same section of trail. Close, but not exact.
- I’ve included calculations for max travel, dynamic sag and max compression and rebound (shown as a negative) velocities
- The first set of graphs we will analyze is composed of 600 sample points (which is just under 3 seconds of activity). I’m traveling at ~13 km/hour, so the graph covers a distance of roughly 11 meters
The top graph (Fast Rebound) represents the settings I was running that day (7 clicks from closed up front, 11 clicks from closed in the rear). The bottom graph (Slow Rebound) has closed things off a lot (1 click from closed up front, 5 clicks from closed in the rear). Showing these two runs side by side gives us a good read on the data.
The other really beautiful thing about this data set is it gives us the response under a few different conditions. First, we enter the graph from the left with our suspension settling after hitting a small curb. Then, we get a bunch of quick repetitive hits in the form of the stairs, followed by a big bottom out hit. After that, we have one large hump as I load up the bike, followed by a full unweighting as the wheels come off the ground after the curb, and then, finally, a second bump that signifies the impact from landing after the curb. This gives us a view on a lot of different responses, over a very short window.
We can clearly see the impacts of running faster rebound when we compare the stair sections of each run. On the first run, the fork is recovering quickly, and so is hovering around sag as we roll down the stairs. For the final compression at the bottom, the fork has very nearly recovered to sag point (the impact starts at 19% travel) and then maxes out at 57%.
When we jump to the slow rebound example, we can see a much slower recovery and some pretty significant impacts as a result. Clearly, the fork doesn’t have enough time to recover from each stair hit and by the time we get to the bottom of the stairs, we’re much deeper into travel, such that the bottom compression starts with the fork at 31% of travel, and we end up using a whopping 73% of travel. This looks like a pretty great example of packing to me!
Beyond the fork just riding lower and lower, there are some secondary impacts. We see much more force of the impacts flowing through the front of the bike, and less on the rear, suggesting a substantial shifting of weight forward. For the fast rebound example we’ve actually used 68% of rear travel, while with slower rebound we’ve only used 61%. This isn’t that great of a difference in terms of percentage points, but remember that the rear is also rebounding slower as well! It should be slowly burrowing packing down, just like the fork, but the fairly substantial shift in weight negates this from happening.
There is also some insight to be gained by looking at the two large humps in the data that follow the stairs. First, it’s almost impressive how identical the preload input is that I put into the bike before rolling off the curb. This makes it really easy to compare the response as the bike unweights coming off the curb.
We can go a lot deeper here, as well, and parse the data points to calculate velocities and response times. Up front, the 6 clicks difference in rebound damping the slow and fast examples have more or less halved the rebound velocities, doubled the response times and doubled the distance the bike covers before the suspension recovers when the bike is unweighted. With fast rebound, the fork quickly tops out, and with slow rebound the fork meanders towards top out and barely gets there before impact. Weighted, the difference in response is less with much smaller differences in average speed. However, we should keep in mind that with slower rebound the fork compresses much deeper in travel and therefore there’s more force trying to extend the fork. The damper is slowing things down more than just the speeds indicate.
The rear is showing less of an impact from the changes in settings. Average rebound speeds are closer no matter the settings, but clearly faster on the fast rebound example. With the bike unweighted, the bike is responding over the same time (as it should be as this represents the time/distance from curb to landing and in neither case does the suspension fully topping out), but it doesn’t move as far.
Now let’s see what this looks like on the trail.
On the Trail
You would have a hard time understanding how much time I have spent looking at suspension graphs over the last few months. First, it takes a bit of time to pick out the same spot on different graphs. You have to pick through a lot of graphs and match up a lot of points to do so.
Then, you quickly learn that it can be a whole lot of noise that doesn’t tell you much.
And that was my big struggle here. The Motion Instruments app was telling me that my rebound speeds were too low, but when I zoomed in on the data I was having a hard time seeing anything other than really subtle differences. Worse, riding a slightly different line or weighting the bike a little bit different would cause more response in the data than the suspension settings!
But I eventually figured it out after looking at piles and piles of comparables. Below, we’re going to focus in on one. We’ll start a little bit zoomed out before honing in on a pretty small range of data to demonstrate how this all plays out in the real world.
We’re going to look at a section of John Deer, taken on two different days. We’re going to gradually zoom in with three sets of graphs. The first is 4.9 seconds of trail (1000 samples) starting at approximately 1:12 from the top of John Deer. The next set of graphs is 2.5 seconds of trail (500 samples). The final look is 1 second of trail (200 samples). Settings/components over those two runs are as follows below:
- | Run #1 | Run #2 |
---|---|---|
Fork | Fox 36 160mm Travel 96 psi 1 Token HSC - 7 from closed LSC - 8 from closed HSR - 4 from closed LSR - 4 from closed Static Sag - 17% | Formula Selva Gold cartridge 170mm Travel 78 psi 1 Token Compression - 1 from open Rebound - 9 from closed Static Sag - 16% |
Rear | Marzocchi Bomber Coil 150mm wheel travel 500 lbs. spring Rebound - 8 from closed Compression - 2 from open Static Sag - 22% | Marzocchi Bomber Coil 150mm wheel travel 500 lbs. spring Rebound - 10 from closed Compression - 1 from open Static Sag - 22% |
The first graph teaches us a few things.
- Run #1 – Fox 36 – I’m running 1 more click of both LSR and HSR than is recommended by Fox. On top outs where the wheel is fully un-weighted, there’s a clear 2-stage rebound where the fork is quick to rebound until around the 5% mark, where is slows considerably before hitting top out. This looks similar to what the fork was doing on our slow rebound stairs example. I’m going to speculate that this is an interaction between slow and high speed rebound settings, where we move from oil flowing through shims to oil flowing through the low speed circuit.
- Run #2 – Formula Selva – Settings here are close to what we ran on our fast stair sample, and the response looks similar. Formula doesn’t provide recommended damper settings that I could find, so this was winging it based on max rebound speed from the Motion Instruments app. Max speeds are in the ballpark of what is suggested, but the histogram (not shown) shows a bit of a spike in the 0-5% travel bracket, suggesting maybe it’s riding too high in travel? But this could also be suggesting too much spring pressure. I will be experimenting with less air pressure and more compression damping in the future
- The data coming off the rear is much more consistent from run to run than coming off the front. This feels obvious as they’re the same shock with only slightly different settings. Certain sections look very close to identical. Max speed is actually faster on Run #1, despite the rebound being 2 clicks slower. I think that at this point on the shock, there is no discernible difference in rebound from 8 clicks and further out. The rebound adjustment on this shock is just a rod closing off an orifice, so while it does have an impact on high speed rebound, it seems to have more impact on slow.
Our mid zoom example doesn’t really give me much more insight over the first. We do start to see a few more differences between the two data samples, but I’d have a hard time drawing any conclusions here. Certain things are just too similar, while others are too different.
Where things get really interesting is when we zoom even further in, and focus on 200 sample points. This close in, our response starts to look pretty similar to our stair example. On Run #1, we see the fork looks like it is slowly wiggling down into itself, without much rebound response between bumps. On Run #2, we start and end at the same place, but the suspension is responding faster, recovering closer to sag, and starting each successive bump higher in travel. The fork has more travel at its disposal and it’s moving more with each impact, with the front and the rear of the bike tracking one another better. Looking specifically at the rear though, the difference in the response between Run #1 and Run #2 are much smaller, with subtler differences compared to the fork.
With all of that information, I would consider a few changes to my settings. I would for sure continue opening up the rebound on the Fox 36, and probably experiment with separate adjustments to LSR and HSR. The rear shock is looking like it needs a lighter rebound tune, or perhaps even a different shock, with more response to setting changes. On the Formula fork, I think I’ve hit my limit for what I’m comfortable with rebound speed and I might even try one click more (slower) rebound. Overall, I’m governed by the coil spring that I have for this bike, which is forcing me into a spring forward tuning philosophy in the rear, which I’m balancing out on the front. I’d like to experiment on both ends of the bike with less spring and more compression damping, but that’s neither here nor there in our discussion about rebound.
What Does this All Mean?
Before we get to that, I wanted to share a couple of outside resources that I found that helped me to clarify my thoughts on rebound damping. These two visuals were handy for demonstrating a theory, but they’re also imaginary things made up by humans, so grain of salt and all that.
The first is this website called Shim Restackor. The pitch here is that a bit of under-damping is a good thing. Anything less than critical damping is going to cause your suspension to oscillate (i.e. overshoot sag) but we can handle a bit of this and, more importantly, this allows your suspension to respond faster, and therefore ride higher in its travel.
The graph above explains this, by showing the difference a system that is near critical damped (green/zeta = 0.9), underdamped (red/zeta = 0.7) and severely under-damped (blue/zeta = 0.5). The severely under-damped fork is going to overshoot sag by a fair amount and then oscillate around your sag point. This will not feel all that controlled. The near critical damped fork is not going to oscillate around sag to any noticeable degree, but it’s slow to get there! The under-damped fork is going to overshoot sag by a bit, but it’s allowing the fork to both return and settle fairly quickly. Using the “seat bounce test”, they suggest you can achieve this by bouncing on your suspension and setting your rebound to allow for a single oscillation of a few mm before settling. Is this correct? Perfect? I’m not sure, but it explains why a faster rebounding fork feels like it is riding higher in its travel.
The other really great resource that I found is the Race Tech Suspension Bible. This deals with motorcycles, but there’s some fascinating stuff in here. There’s a diagram on page 32 that explains the conflicting things you feel when you’re adjusting your rebound damping.
What this is suggesting is that there’s a window that is generally acceptable for rebound damping. On one end of that spectrum, we dial in more rebound to create a feeling of control. That’s suspension that moves a bit slower and feels a bit less lively, more settled. On the other, we have lighter rebound that improves traction (but don’t go too light). So that’s suspension that is reacting to bumps more quickly, putting the wheel back on the ground faster, and creating traction by having your wheels touching the ground. But this also can feel less controlled, more active and a bit more bouncy. If left to my/our own devices, we (probably) gravitate towards the controlled end of that spectrum as it feels more natural, but when you see the data, you start to see the benefits of the faster end of the spectrum.
What Does this Mean for You?
“That’s great Dave. We’re happy that you have figured out that your rebound was too slow. What can we do with this information?”
This is a fair question. It doesn’t seem like you’re going to be able to buy your own Motion Instruments system any time soon, but I think there are some things you can take away from the work that I’ve put in here. I mean…I’m just some schmo with access to a data acquisition system, so you’re probably getting what you pay for with this advice. If you’re serious about this, there are experts that you can consult with that will be happy to help you tune your suspension to your individual needs.
But let’s get back to the opening premise of this article. Opening up your rebound is really noticeable, especially in the rear, and especially while climbing. The whole traction/control spectrum really comes into focus when your rear is bobbing more than you’re used to on a climb. It’s unsettling, quite frankly! The adjustments on the Marzocchi shock seem to have a much larger impact on slow speed rebound than on high, and I think I could stomach higher maximum rebound speeds if it the impact on pedaling wasn't so great, and it would be great to see if I could find a world where my max rebound settings were faster while my low speed rebound felt more controlled.
The bad feelings went away as soon as I turned my bike downhill. Honestly, I never felt anything bad coming down the trail with lighter rebound settings. My suspension felt softer (as it was riding higher in travel) and quicker to respond to hits (well…ya). Up front, it was all good, as I never felt any detriment while pedaling.
This was all in line with what Motion Instruments told me would happen. They suggested some target speeds and I wasn’t hitting them! I opened up my rebound damping and my rebound speeds got faster! And it felt better!
The thing is, would I have been able to get here without a fancy data acquisition system? With rebound settings, I actually think so! I think I knew that my rebound was probably a bit too slow, and I certainly wasn’t surprised when the system told me to speed up my rebound damping. I think the Shim Restackor “seat bounce test” is on to something. If you bounce on your suspension and it doesn’t oscillate around sag at all, your rebound damping is likely too slow. It’s going to feel safe and controlled, but it’s likely compromising your suspension performance. If it’s oscillating well past sag, it’s likely too fast, but that’s going to be a harder thing to gauge. Even a bit more oscillation is going to feel pretty weird when you’re pedalling your bike. You can tune this out a bit with more low speed compression, or just flick the climb switch if you're lucky enough to have been issued one.
I may have to write about this a bit more in the future, but what I’ve been unable to do is balance my rebound speeds front to rear. The thing is, I think this is okay! The rear of my bike is a bit slower getting back to sag, but this sort of defaults into a position of safety (slacker angles, higher hands) so I’m not convinced it’s all bad. You also don’t have to think too hard to imagine the downsides of the rear of your bike rebounding quicker than the front. But, as mentioned above, I wouldn't mind experimenting with this a bit more if I could better control pedaling performance.
Of all the tweaks I’ve made over the last several months, faster rebound created the most noticeable change. I’m not sure if that corresponds with “helped the most with performance,” but most of you are going to be able to feel a few clicks difference in rebound, and the data shows that faster rebound speeds will allow your suspension to ride higher in its travel and will allow it to react more quickly to bumps. So, play around a bit. Pick a 15 second section of trail that you know well, is pretty bumpy and that you can ride consistently. Do a seat bounce test. Do a run. Hike back up. Open up your rebound a click or two. Bounce on it again. Do another run. Hike back up again. Try something else. This might feel a bit weird at first, but if you’re adhering closely to your suspension manufacturers recommended settings I’ll bet that you have some space to speed up your rebound damping. I’ve certainly seen the benefits of getting a bit more aggressive with my rebound speeds and I think you can too.
Comments
Coiler
1 month, 1 week ago
Sorry Dave, all your data is completely wrong. This is how you actually set up suspension:
1. Set up based on weight and factory recommended settings.
2. Ride, and blame any issues you have on the suspensions settings.
3. Make huge adjustments to all the settings simultaneously.
4. Ride, and then notice the fork feels exponentially worse.
5. Blame your poor riding on the change in suspension settings.
6. Reset to factory recommended settings.
7. Be blown away by how much better the suspension feels.
8. Based on your experience, be terrified to every adjust anything again.
This works for me everytime.
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Kerry Williams
1 month, 1 week ago
Are we brothers from other mothers?!?! I have gone through that exact same process, hahaha!
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Morgan Heater
1 month, 1 week ago
Triplets separated at birth!
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RoboDuck
1 month, 1 week ago
Please don't read this and then go and run your rebounds wide open. That is also not the answer. Yes Richie Rude runs VERY fast rebound. No you don't ride like Richie. Yes faster rebounds speeds can be an asset up to a point. That point it where the speed of return starts to disrupt the rider position. Some points:
1. Pro level riders on good setups run faster rebounds (1-2 clicks typically) than normal expert level riders like your typical North Shore regulars. This is a compromise because at race pace your fork packing is more of a detriment than a slightly rougher ride. Pro level riders also react quicker with body language to the bike and can manage the faster return speeds better. With WC DH riders I always saw about 1 click faster rebound being desired for quali/race runs instead of just practice. Without the additional speed this faster rebound just tends to feel rough (and tiring).
2. To much rebound can disrupt your body position if you can't react quick enough to the bike. It can be especially bad with shock HSR and flat pedals. If you find yourself blowing feet off all the time in the rough then slow your shock HSR a little bit.
3. Motion instruments (and some other DAQ systems) always tend to suggest faster rebound than is optimum, especially for terrain like the North Shore where you get a lot of lower speed, very technical moves. This is just a nature of trying to distill a very complicated system down to a couple of directions using fairly simple algorithms.
4. Terrain and speed make a huge difference. High speed (think California, not a moist JD lap) means faster rebound. Many large American brands have settings that point you in that direction. Lower speed technical means slower rebound (think Arizona and North Shore).
5. Lighter riders (<140lbs) are the only people who should be approaching the limits of wide open on fork. Even then modern Fox and RS are usually adequate for most skill levels. I do know of several elite woman requiring lighter Grip2 rebounds tunes for race usage. Having fresh oil in your fork can also make a big difference to how the rebound behaves.
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Shinook
1 month, 1 week ago
I'd point out this heavily depends on the fork and shock you are using. Not all dampers are tuned the same and some may require you to be closer to open than not. Even being 210lbs with high pressure/spring rates, I've had to run some dampers (RXF36m.2 for instance) a few clicks from open, while forks like the Mezzer Pro and Fox/RS products, I found myself more in the middle. So I'd be careful speaking in absolutes about where people should and shouldn't be. Friction is also a huge variable in some of these components, which can be influenced by poor QC or lack of service, and your token/progression setup can also.
I can also say that I got a massive improvement in feel with the Motion Instruments recommended rebound settings, so I disagree they recommend settings that are too fast. I'm not a pro rider by any means, but opening it up closer to what that system suggested gave me a bike that was more confident at speed, more responsive, and tracked better. I used the raw data more than recommendations, though.
I've gotten on bikes where people had it set so slowly you could press into it and count a second before it fully returned. Most bikes I get on, the rebound feels too slow for the spring rate or pressure being run, when you open it up, the bike feels and tracks considerably better. I've been through this with several riders and all said it was an improvement. There is obviously a limit, you don't want it bouncing around all over, but I've personally found that my components were packing up (either due to friction or incorrect damper setting) more than I thought as I started to open it up.
IMO the best, easiest tell of this is side video footage. Have someone record you riding through some rough features at varying speeds, then watch what your suspension is doing. I started experimenting with this very thing after someone did this during a rough day at the bike park and I realized I was packing up badly. Telemetry is helpful but getting some footage of what your bike is doing can be a good start in the right direction.
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Dave Tolnai
1 month, 1 week ago
I also wouldn’t advise people to open up their rebound all the way, either, without some experimentation. Start at recommended settings, but don’t be afraid to play around with it. My default was far too slow and i think there are likely others in that boat.
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Justin White
4 weeks ago
2. Except not a ton of shocks allow external HSR adjustment, it's the last thing to get a knob going up the trim lines, and some shocks never get one, to quite hard to tweak. Any other suggestions?
I also think that blowing feet off is more often (on the damper front, it could be so many other things) from incorrect compression damping: too much such that the suspension doesn't move enough and the bump lifts you up then your feet come off when the bike suddenly drops, or too little so you already blew through your travel and the wall-of-progression or bottom-out bumper is now lifting you up and your feet come off when the bike suddenly drops. And both of these scenarios can be excerbated by too slow rebound damping because the wheel might not be back firmly on the ground and thus not providing you anything to push against to set your feet again! It is reaction time, but fast rebound actually extends the window to react to the light feet feeling by giving you more time without the bike free-falling.
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Jerry Willows
1 month, 1 week ago
I found this pretty useful for setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiHQd4mzl3Y
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Dave Tolnai
1 month, 1 week ago
That is interesting. It’s a slow moving seat bounce test!
I also like his concept of find critical, and go 1-2 clicks faster than that depending on how/what you ride. This is a pretty good ballpark.
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Andy Eunson
1 month, 1 week ago
I learned that one a long time ago. Set my sag and ride off a curb and increase rebound damping until the oscillating stops. But I think we want less damping the faster the speed. For typical North Shore steep slow technical we want more rebound damping and for say bike park style flow trails less damping. Does that make sense?
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Deniz Merdano
1 month, 1 week ago
I've used the curb method for years now. I can replicate the curb drop at home by hovering a few inches above the saddle and dropping myself onto it to create oscillation. The method is not foolproof, however. It needs a different tuning approach depending on the bike, intended use, outside temperature, even suspension platform. Hech, sometimes I'll adjust accosring to how I want the ride to feel. Faster rebound for livelier setup for play or slower rebound for more controlled high speed attack. But wherever the decision is, it needs to be a balance of front and rear suspension. Bikes ride well even with the rebound out of optimum range as long at both ends react similarly.
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Lynx .
1 month, 1 week ago
Agree 100% Deniz, once both ends are balanced, it tends to not matter as precisely as if they're out of whack and it's amazing how many people don't have a clue or cant feel how out of whack their suspension front to rear, like super slow front, super fast rear and they can't figure why they're always going OTB.
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D_C_
1 month, 1 week ago
Temperature is an interesting one. I’ll often find that suspension will feel overdamped in cold temps when bouncing on the bike, but feels good during a descent when the suspension warms up. I tend to not jump at turning dials right away.
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SuspensionLab_JonoChurch
1 month ago
Yeah the oils get thicker but the biggest change is your air spring pressure will have dropped a lot. These both combine to a slow, overdamped feel. Shocks warm up very quickly and have a fairly consistent operating temperature (cooling from air flow balances the heating), but fork air springs may not always get warm enough so possibly need compensation but I would still judge that based on feel on the trail
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Justin White
1 month ago
Can you verbalize why one might want slower [low-speed] rebound for steep slow trails?
In slow steep stuff, you're often hunting for traction and hard on the brakes, loading up the front and pushing it deeper into the travel. Thus when the terrain does drop away into a depression, say in the middle of a gnarly chute, the wheel needs to go further faster to prevent packing up when you get back into the chunder, meaning fast rebound could be ideal. Because packing is not only a high-trail-speed thing: it's factor of bump size, bump frequency, and wheel loading.
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Kenny
1 month ago
Rebound damping resists anti-rise forces, for one thing. When you brake the bike pitches forward. This can be.. less than ideal when things are steep. "Depressions" are not really a thing when it's steep, draw a horizontal line with a "depression" in it, then turn the paper 45+ degrees. That's now basically a drop. You just want to skip over that and have the bike not tip any further towards vertical than it already is. You pick up speed so you want to be able to brake just prior, so control speed. You really don't want to pitch forward at that moment.
That said the impact of anti rise on ideal rebound damping is definitely a thing and a whole other topic. But even on a bike with higher anti rise, keeping things from pitching forward can be desirable
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Justin White
1 month ago
Come on, you don't "skip over" everything. Sometimes you need to let the front wheel drop into something, letting the suspension do some work, perhaps because you didn't have time or space or traction to "brake just prior", or perhaps because you need to make a direction change before the skip would be complete. In those cases it's helpful to have the wheel getting back to the ground quickly both so you can get a feel for the traction and then so you can use that traction.
Even if you are "skipping over" everything, fast rebound will still be useful to get the wheel back into a good position when you smack the far side, and not be packed up after the second or third skip or just packed up heading to chunder after a skip.
"That said the impact of anti rise on ideal rebound damping is definitely a thing and a whole other topic. But even on a bike with higher anti rise, keeping things from pitching forward can be desirable"
Yes to both, but...
"Rebound damping resists anti-rise forces"
Hmm... but both are trying to slow/prevent the [rear] suspension from extending. Shock rebound damping doesn't resist anti-rise, it assists it by trying to keep the suspension compressed, keeping it down, keeping it from rising. A strong high-speed rebound force on the fork might be considered to be "resisting" anti-rise by applying force to help maintain the pitched forward aspect, but if you're braking hard it's really the spring force and compression damping resisting the fork getting too deep, and rebound damping won't be getting into the equation until you reduce that force compressing the front, by getting off the brakes, but then anti-rise goes out of the equation...
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Kenny
1 month ago
I mean it resists brake jack. Your overall tone indicates you've already made up your mind so I'll leave it at that. Do what you like.
Justin White
1 month ago
Still doesn't work: brake-jack and anti-rise act in the same direction: towards keeping the suspension compressed. Though often used as interchangeable synomyns, brake-jack is most often used to refer to solely the brake induced forces, while anti-rise is most correctly used to refer to the combination of brake-jack forces with deceleration and weight-shift induced forces.
I'm the one admitting you're partly correct (literally said "yes, sometimes", and "yes to both". You're the one claiming nothing I say is useful. Who has "made up their mind"?
Kenny
1 month ago
I'll try to explain line by line:
- Many bikes have less than 100% anti rise.
-In a case where you have less than 100% anti rise, when you apply the rear brake, there are forces that try to actively EXTEND the rear shock.
-These forces tend to exaggerate the natural forward weight shift and rear suspension extension that tends to happen inherently when you decelerate.
-rear shock rebound damping slows/resists this extension, which can give the rider more opportunity to shift their body position as needed to counteract this behavior and make the overall chassis feel less "pitchy". For some riders, this is desirable. As such, this could be a case where slower rebound produces a benefit when descending steep terrain (an example of what you originally asked about). The effect is more noticeable the lower the anti rise value is.
In general, if a bike has a lot of anti rise, it'll be more prone to pack up, because any braking you do is literally trying to do that. Opposite is also true.
Dynamically ant rise can make a big difference in how much rebound feels good, depending on riding style and terrain and personal preference.
I really noticed this when I recently moved from having a couple bikes with 90%+ anti rise at sag on with more like 60%, slower rebound helps but it also packs up less since braking forces "help" the rear end want to stand up.
Justin White
1 month ago
Line by line, you say...
"In a case where you have less than 100% anti rise, when you apply the rear brake, there are forces that try to actively EXTEND the rear shock."
No, that's not until negative anti-rise. (Well, sort of, except the only force is the spring force which is always there). For AR between 0% and 100%, the weight shift to the front wheel allows the suspension to extend, but does not force it to extend. (Pinkbike just had a halfway decent article about this on the 17th, though it's not showing up anymore...)
"rear shock rebound damping slows/resists this extension"
Yes, that's resisting the "rise", not resisting anti-rise (nor brake-jack) as you said initially.
"For some riders, this is desirable. As such, this could be a case where slower rebound produces a benefit when descending steep terrain"
Some sure, but most I'd think not, because it reduces traction on the rear wheel. If the weight is shifting forward, but also rebound damping is preventing the the suspension from extending, then the load on the rear wheel is reduced even more. Fortunately since much of anti-rise is linked to braking force, as the rear wheel loses traction then braking force is reduced and there is a nice feedback loop for AR forces. Meanwhile if there is just a bunch of rebound damping holding the suspension compressed, the rear wheel will just have less traction meaning the front needs to brake harder, shifting more weight forward, reducing rear wheel traction even more: a bad feedback loop.
"In general, if a bike has a lot of anti rise, it'll be more prone to pack up, because any braking you do is literally trying to do that. Opposite is also true."
So, high anti-rise needs faster rebound so it recovers quickly and is ready to brake hard without packing up, while lower anti-rise can handle a slower rebound because it's less prone to packing under heavy braking. Or, put another way: high AR forces rebound to be set fast, while moderate AR allows rebound set to preference.
Kenny
1 month ago
Justin we're at the thread nesting limit so just replying here.
I think we have different interpretations of what anti-rise is, but in your last paragraph you sorta disagreed while paraphrasing and agreeing with me, which was a little confusing. :-p
I agree you'd need a negative anti rise percentage have it be additive to the rise happening naturally, but that wasn't quite what i meant to describe. I'm simply saying that if anti rise is less than 100%, that means that there is shock extension happening during decel and that forward chassis pitch can be undesirable. So further to that, the lower the anti rise value, the less of that extension force is cancelled out, and the more unsettling and severe that weight transfer and subsequent pitch forward can feel. Rebound can be an effective tool to mitigate this, so depending on a given bike's propensity to pitch forward in this manner, it may alter ones priorities in terms of rebound speed. It's part of the equation especially for people riding steep terrain.
Justin White
3 weeks ago
"but in your last paragraph you sorta disagreed while paraphrasing and agreeing with me"
Yes, that was intentional. It seems that we finally agree that 100%) AR, the rebound setting isn't a large factor in prevent the pitching since the AR is handling that, but you more likely need to set it quite fast to help prevent packing down.
"I agree you'd need a negative anti rise percentage have it be additive to the rise happening naturally, but that wasn't quite what i meant to describe."
But that is what you described, up until now...
"Rebound can be an effective tool to mitigate this, so depending on a given bike's propensity to pitch forward in this manner, it may alter ones priorities in terms of rebound speed. It's part of the equation especially for people riding steep terrain."
Never said rebound wasn't part of the equation, just that high AR can create limits to that part of the equation, while moderate AR leaves more room for preference.
To go back to an earlier comment: "That said the impact of anti rise on ideal rebound damping is definitely a thing and a whole other topic. But even on a bike with higher anti rise, keeping things from pitching forward can be desirable"
But it's more of a thing with moderate AR. With high AR, rebound damping doesn't do very much work to prevent the pitching when on the brakes because the [high] AR is creating a compression force on the suspension. And that was my whole point. Well, that and the initial correction that rebound damping doesn't resist brake-jack/high-anti-rise, because of that whole compression force thing.
Kenny
1 month, 1 week ago
Really good video and he describes the trade-offs well.
The setting that gives good chassis stability across a range of situations, jump take offs and landings especially, might pack up a little.
I also find that I can handle faster rebound when I am fresh and focused, but those settings will bite me when I am fatigued.
I'm same as Deniz - while I'll sometimes use a curb, I almost unconsciously do the "bum drop" simulation when getting on a bike and can generally feel if it's either too fast and trying to catapult me, or too lazy and not returning to normal ride height with a reasonable amount of gusto.
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ShawMac
1 month, 1 week ago
I use the curb method as well, but I look for it to rebound past the sag point and then settle at the sag point and the fastest possible setting to achieve that. I think rebounding just to the sag point is too slow once you start riding at speed.
Edit: Watching him do it, I think he does the same.
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Jerry Willows
1 month, 1 week ago
he does
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Velocipedestrian
1 month ago
Great blast from the past, I remember watching that when it came out. Good advice ages well.
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Tjaard Breeuwer
1 month, 1 week ago
Interesting what you say about fast rebound feeling weird on climbing.
Some smaller brand (I think Cane Creek?) had a climb switch on their shock that increased rebound damping significantly.
At the time, I thought that was weird, because I figured it would cause your dynamic sag to increase in the rear, the opposite of what you’d want, but apparently the feeling it created is supported by Dave’s experiences.
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IslandLife
1 month, 1 week ago
Yes! Had a cane creek shock for a season a couple years ago. Best climb switch on the market... miss that shock. May go back to CC for next season.
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Justin White
1 month ago
All (at least in the last decade and a half or so) Cane Creek shocks with a switch increase both compression and rebound damping when the switch is closed (and usually in proportion to the position of the switch. It makes sense, to both balance the change, and to generally just smooth things out, as noted in the article regarding fast rebound when pedaling.
Although I rarely use a climb switch if not on pavement or smooth gravel, I do appreciate how CC's implementation handles both sides, letting the bike settle into a place where all the forces (squat from uphill angle, squat from acceleration, anti-squat from chain tension, anti-squat from acceleration, bob from pumping legs, and of course bumps) are more evenly balanced.
I've also never been one to see a climb switch or anti-squat as something solely to keep the bike very high in the travel. When climbing, you don't usually need maximum overall travel, nor do you often encounter bump size and frequency that induces packing, so the need to stay high in the travel is much reduced. I'd rather have a consistent, but not high, anti-squat, and let it squat a bit to get into a firmer part of the spring curve so I can still push into and load up the bike when needed, and CC's "slow both circuits" switch fits into this perfectly.
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Mark
1 month, 1 week ago
There's a lot to be learned from the motorcycle world in terms of how we use/tune our suspension.
Something else that comes to mind is something that Remy Metailler talked about one time when his vids first started to take off. He was talking about getting set up for some big jump and how he adjusts his suspension setting to best meet the demands of what he's doing. Now of course this is at the more extreme end of riding, but when you take that info into consideration with the RaceTech graph it should give us pause to think that we should probably be making regular small adjustments to our suspension settings depending on the type of trail we're going to ride and the pace we plan to ride at. Figuring out that magic window and how to apply it could not only make our riding better, but more fun to boot.
Props to you Dave for taking the time to gather all this data and package it in an easily digestible format for everyone.
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Dave Tolnai
1 month, 1 week ago
I remember watching something from him as well. I think it was a Vorsprung video maybe? He talked about "comfort" vs. "safety", where his setup for riding big features was all about controlling his bike through the crux of the feature. I think he also talked a bit about front vs. rear as well, making sure the front of his bike wasn't compressing lower than the rear.
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Cr4w
1 month, 1 week ago
I have absolutely been an over-rebound-dampererer. My Geometron came with an EXT Storia that I was convinced had insufficient rebound to the extent that I sent it to Alba to be retuned twice. But with that shock I was riding better and faster than ever and I never noticed the over-quickness I noticed in the parking lot. I started my new bike off with minimal rebound and have only added more if it seemed to be specifically required. Still riding fast with this strategy.
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DanL
1 month ago
That's very interesting to hear
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Kos
1 month, 1 week ago
As a lifelong dirt bike and mtb guy that is INTO suspension tuning I find Uncle Dave's article fascinating. For those who don't want to read that much, and ride in "normal" mtb terrain, here is what I've found FWIW:
Set your compression and rebound damping so they feel correct when bouncing around the parking lot. Then add one click of compression and reduce two clicks of rebound. For those with both HSR and HSC, well, get reading up above!
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Dave Tolnai
1 month, 1 week ago
I think you're likely onto something. I definitely default to lighter compression and heavier rebound settings than I should.
I wish I'd watched that video Jerry linked to before I wrote this! I think there really is something to finding your critical damping setup where you are just not oscillating, and then using the 2-3 clicks that are lighter than that. However, that's pretty focused on low speed rebound...but...that's the adjustment that you're most likely to have at your disposal, anyhow.
I saw Steve saying something in one of the videos related to their new rear shock (Vorsprung) that this is why they haven't included a HSR dial on that shock. They set that at the factory for your bike/weight/riding style and then just give you LSR to play with.
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ShawMac
1 month, 1 week ago
I have been a subscriber to the hypothesis that it is better to be too open than too closed so I tend to the faster end of the spectrum. If the trailhead app for RS recommends an 8, I am anywhere from a 9-11 from closed.
I did run into one interesting situation this summer that reinforced for me that I struggle in real time identifying "feelings" of my suspension set up. During a warm up run before Sunday morning Race Day practice at the Stevie Smith memorial, I put into practice the above tuning philosophy and spend up my fork rebound by a couple clicks thinking "I am trying to go at race pace, it won't hurt to speed it up a bit to stay higher in my travel". I then forgot about it and headed up to my practice, of which I only planned one to avoid this old man getting too fatigued.
I subsequently lost control straight out of the start and barely held it together, then proceeded to have two more crashes, one of which hurt my leg so bad I thought I was going to have to DNS. It wasn't until getting through the run that the light bulb went on that "hey, I f'ed with my suspension"... so I swapped it back and then went up for a clean run, albeit a lot slower because I was hurting so bad.
So I was clearly having trouble holding my lines and couldn't maintain control, but in the moment it didn't really "feel" like I wasn't until I was upside down and didn't know why. I thought I was just having a real shit day, being tired from the day prior.
It was a real good learning for me to feel what the "too fast" limit was. It was also a learning that often my settings are just manifesting themselves for me as "that ride didn't feel good" or "I had a great ride" even if I am not recognizing the suspension settings as a factor. And I do spend more time playing with and setting up clocks than the average rider.
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larsnbars
1 month, 1 week ago
This was great Dave!
Something I've learned over the years, as a general sentiment, is to run your rebound as fast as you feel comfortable. Here are two examples of the two extremes.
Too fast: Think about riding across washboard on a road, too fast will cause the wheels to lose contact with the ground too often. Like, the wheels are fluttering and you may have 20-30% of overall ground contact because the suspension is returning too quickly creating a skittering effect, like your wheels are fluttering.
Too slow: A lot of people associate getting bucked on jump lips with too fast of a rebound, and just slow er down (referencing rear suspension rebound here). This can actually exasperate that issue as the suspension is getting trapped to far down in the travel until the spring force progression (compressed air/or coil spring) overcomes the rebound damping abilities. This creates a worse case scenario problem because the bike reacts in a way you're not accustomed to.
I tend to agree, most riders are running their rebound settings too slow. Not dramatically, but enough to make a dramatic difference in ride quality and, ultimately control.
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Justin White
1 month ago
Not seeing how rebound alone could be "too fast" on washboard such to reduce wheel contact. Too fast/too little compression damping yes, as the unsprung mass' inertia will cause it to keep going up after passing over a bump. But rebound will only go as fast as the ground falls away, because the ground is always there as a limiter.
Fluttering like that is usually not because of just "too fast" rebound, but it's a combination of trail speed, washboard frequency, compression damping, and rebound damping. You can get into situations where the wheel floats up after the bump due to lack of compression damping, and the rebound damping lets it then extend at the exact right (or wrong) speed to smack into the next bump such that the wheel gets shot up too much yet again. Slowing down the rebound damping just changes the trail speed that causes the smacks to line up and accumulate. This might feel like less fluttering at a very specific speed, but at speeds similar to what first caused the flutter, the wheel will be in contact with the ground even less than with faster rebound.
A better solution for fluttering on washboards is not to slow down rebound damping, but rather speed it up, maybe a bit more compression damping to keep the wheel from shooting up beyond the bump, and also be active over the bumps: active pressure to keep the bike weighted and not let the bars and pedals flutter, let the suspension work as fast as it can.
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Pete Roggeman
1 month ago
What would Lars know, anyway?
Ah, we missed you, Justin.
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Justin White
3 weeks ago
The person with one single comment, the created an account the same day this article posted? I have no idea what they know, and didn't say they didn't know anything. They literally said "think about riding across washboard on a road", so I did, and didn't come to the same conclusion, explained my conclusion, and got shit on for it.
I didn't even get into the "rebound too slow" part, which has been widely debunked as not being the cause of getting bucked off the jump lip (nor rebound too fast, since it's a compression event). You're saying that the damping alone is holding against the spring but then suddenly the spring is able to overcome the damping and upset the bike? Doesn't make sense to me. It's the loading up of the bike on the lip that holds the suspension down, and the rebound event happens in the air, when the wheel is no longer pushing against the ground. You could jump without any rebound damping, wouldn't really be noticeable if you do it right (no pre-jump, no bunny-hop off the lip), though would be noticeable upon landing when you have to do all the work of managing the force of the deep compression, letting the bike get back to it's dynamic sag, ready for the next part of trail, without help from rebound damping. There should be no "letting" the bike come back before you're off the lip, it's loading all the way, rebound is not a [major] factor.
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Mammal
1 month, 1 week ago
That diagram showing the traction/control intersection zone is a good visual. I've always run rebound fast as possible, only dialed slower to reach the control zone, and no slower than that. I sometimes make adjustments on the fly, but that's not usually more than one or even a half click on my particular fork.
Moving from the shore to the island was a dramatic example of how that window shifts left or right with regional trail types. Much faster trails with less single-big-hit events required a complete retink on my settings front and back, not just rebound.
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Lynx .
1 month, 1 week ago
Dave, that some serious geekery there, very impressed. I'm very curious if you were hitting any jumps when you were doing this testing or was it all basically just trail with tyres mostly on the ground? I find that's a reason quite a lot of people run their shocks rebound slower than maybe it should be, because if you don't use good technique, you can easily get ejected if the rebounds' fast. I know that I'm not a jumper and my technique sucks, so if I'm going to be hitting jumps, I will actually slow the rebound down a click or 2 depending. The riding I do actually enjoy, is slower speed tech, where a slower rebound works better, IMHO.
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Dave Tolnai
1 month, 1 week ago
Good questions. I talked a bit about the trails I was riding in the first article I wrote about data acquisition, which I of course didn't include a link to.
I've been looking at my tuning in two parts. The easy bit is the full travel end of things. Sag & spacers to ensure things feel good and there's enough in the tank on larger hits. This is very bike/shock dependent. I tried to do some data acquisition on some more challenging trails but the results just weren't all that useful. A plummet followed by a flat bit just doesn't give you much to work with.
So, for data acquisition I found myself searching for faster, bumpier trails. If I can get something that is working well on repetitive hits yet supportive enough on big hits, it's likely going to work most places. I don't really change my setup much for locations, but if I lived somewhere else I'd probably re-think that a bit. If I ride up in Kamloops I tend to ride pretty mellow stuff and this setup will feel just fine for that riding, but I won't be going very deep into travel. A shorter travel bike would likely be better on this stuff, anyhow.
I think your comment on jumps and slow speed tech are related. I think riding both of these things we default more towards the "comfortable". We want a stable platform that isn't moving a lot or swallowing our body english.
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Joseph Crabtree
1 month, 1 week ago
I like the rear shock fast as long as it doesn't kick harder off a jump face than I can compensate for and the fork balanced so they return at the same rate. A click either way depending on speed and amplitude.
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Ryan Walters
1 month, 1 week ago
Excellent article Dave! I’m always surprised how some very skilled and experienced riders run their rebound so slow. I think for some people who have been biking for years, the tendency is to stick with what you knew from many years ago when mountain bike suspension kinda sucked.
It’s true that your rebound speed should be heavily influenced by your reaction time, strength and general skills on a bike. Inexperienced riders and fast rebound speeds generally don’t mix well, but those riders usually aren’t riding super fast anyway. Also, not all suspension is created equal! I try to run my stuff as fast as possible without any top-out sensation, but some mediocre suspension platforms exhibit top-out quite easily - even when rebound is set slower than I’d like.
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Dave Tolnai
1 month, 1 week ago
Good points! A slow, stable, comfortable suspension setup is likely better for a beginner.
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BarryW
1 month, 1 week ago
I think that warrants consideration.
How beneficial is it to give a beginner a bike that isn't setup to the 'ideal'? I tend to think that we all grow used to what we ride. Good, bad or somewhere in the middle. On jumps off a size and magnitude that is skill appropriate, what is the benefit to letting them learn worse technique on a setup that allows them to ride off jumps with their weight too far back?
Total devil's advocate questions, but I'm curious to think that over. In my experience coaching sea kayaking it isn't really beneficial beyond moment zero to have a 'beginner' boat. So the encouragement was to just learn how to use a good boat, not an easy boat.
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Ryan Walters
1 month, 1 week ago
Yes, beginners absolutely should have different suspension settings than expert level riders.
In the same way us mortals couldn't ride the settings of a WC DH racer, and we also couldn't drive an F1 car with any amount of control. As stated repeatedly, suspension settings rely very much on trail speeds as well as the size and speed of bumps and impacts. A beginner doesn't become an expert overnight, and suspension settings should change incrementally as well.
What's "ideal" for one skill level is far from ideal for another.
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BarryW
1 month, 1 week ago
You might be missing my point, sure, even I am not riding the same settings as a pro, but I'm asking the why of it?
Why is it better to use 'too much' rebound for a beginner? For the specific instance of riding jumps that are too big (for that skill level) and they get bucked?
I'm actually curious about your answers.
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Morgan Heater
1 month, 1 week ago
It seems fairly intuitive. Slower speeds require less energy to be dissipated, so require less damping on both sides of the circuit for a similar suspension feeling. Slower speeds also require less damping to maintain chassis stability under breaking, etc. So, someone riding less aggressively will want less damping to maintain similar feelings of control and traction.
Shinook
1 month, 1 week ago
I disagree that beginners "absolutely" need different suspension setups. I think people attribute too much to beginners needing this and that ("beginners" need a hardtail, less powerful brakes, etc). This is almost always coming from people without extensive coaching backgrounds and nearly every time contradicts what people with actual coaching experience find.
What they need is a bike that responds correctly to the terrain they are riding and to what they are doing, the same as everyone. For 99% of riders, that's a fairly standard window. I don't think there is as much room for variance as people think, outside of obvious terrain and bike differences (e.g. needs for a XC bike vs enduro bike, needs for an average of 15% grade vs 50%). If you are in the top 1% then I could see that their needs would be different riding at the elite or pro level, otherwise beginner or not, most people need to be in roughly the same ballpark.
You can still induce high shaft speeds riding slowly, even without major trick features. A beginner applying their brakes and inducing high shaft speeds in the front can present a control and balance problem. A beginner trying to preload their bike and not being able to get a proper response presents a skill development problem. If they are riding chunky terrain and packing up, same story, that's a problem. Beginners also tend to "turn" with their bars more than leaning the bike over, this can cause the front end to dive and tuck, something that can be mitigated with proper damping setup.
The speed of the bike as a chassis is less the issue and the issue is more what type of shaft velocities they are creating when they ride. There is no benefit to beginner riders hamstringing their suspension. If anything, I'd argue beginners struggling with body position and balance should run a firmer/faster setup to avoid bad weight distribution habits and potential diving issues under emergency braking.
I think there is this mentality among cyclists that you have to be "this tall to ride" something, whether it be a type of bike, tires, suspension components, brakes, etc. I hear it all the time, something to the effect of "xyz isn't a pro and doesn't need that". The reality IMO is the reverse: beginners need things dialed in more appropriately with more detail and more forgiveness. An expert rider could make do with improper setups to some degree, but a proper setup for a beginner can buy a lot of margin of error and confidence.
Ryan Walters
1 month ago
I think you might be missing my point. Outside of the obvious rider weight consideration that has nothing to do with skill, strength or experience, spring rate, air pressure and/or volume spacers used will certainly be affected by speed and skill. Likewise, the damper needs to be adjusted properly to handle the spring rates and shaft speeds encountered.
I’m not a WC DH racer, but a beginner rider at the same weight as me wouldn’t be able to get past half the suspension travel on my bike with my suspension settings.
Kenny
1 month ago
The mantra with suspension always needs to be "the spring stores energy, damping dissipates energy".
Once one's brain is fully wrapped around that concept, the answers to these questions become pretty evident.
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Justin White
1 month ago
Depends on the beginner. Beginner at excercise in general? Or just beginner at mountain biking? I taught snowboad lessons for a while, and there were folks who had never seen snow but had done lots of, say, martial arts, or biking, or football. They would not have benefited from the equivalent of a "slow, stable, comfortable setup", because they already know how to use their bodies to manage energy, and know much more of their own physical limits. A flexy dull-edged board and soft flexy boots (safe and comfortable) wouldn't really help them beyond the very first turns, because they'll find the limits quickly and be less able to progress since that setup won't be able to keep up with what they can actually do, and especially with what they're trying to do next.
A passenger might like slow, stable, comfortable, like a limo. But a rider, even a new one, would benefit more from something they can put their energy into and push against. It's like telling someone getting into running to just start in Crocs: slow, stable, comfortable, yup. And if it's all they have, hell yeah, do what you can! But if there is a choice, then obviously stiffer shoes that they can actually put energy into is going to be better from the get-go. Not saying jump right to track spikes or Kipchoge's super-shoes, because that's like Gwin's old 0% sag fork setup: you need experience to know how to manage the energies going in and coming out; but beginners don't need couches, they need coaches.
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Dave Tolnai
1 month ago
For sure. I was just at the ski hill the other day hanging out near the rental shop. A guy came in asking to rent some gear. The attendant asked him if he'd ever skied before. The guy responded "No, but I've done lots of martial arts." The attendant said "Cool! Here's some plug boots and GS race skis. You'll get a hang of them after a run or two."
Seemed to work out pretty well for that guy.
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BarryW
1 month, 1 week ago
Great article Dave!
As I put new suspension front and rear of my bike the beginning of the year I also had to get it adjusted. I went about where the manufacturer said, then on repetitive laps at Snoqualmie Pass bike park I did untimed bracketing. I ended up with a lot less rebound on my rear than RS recommended (2023 Super Deluxe Ultimate coil) and I had to go 'too far' to find that point. On the previous Fox Float DPS I ran zero rebound on the adjuster and still wished for less. On the RS coil I had to go a couple clicks from open to get to where I like it.
Fork is very close to the recommendations with maybe 2 clicks less (2024 Z1 coil on medium spring at 160mm). But the faster I'm riding the more compression damping I seem to want.
It would be interesting after having done some decent quality adjustment tuning on repetitive laps where I would find myself after analysing with something like the Motion Control setup. I like less rebound than all my riding partners, so am I running it too bouncy or are they just packing up a lot more?
Again, really good article and beautifully presented.
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Allan Maxwell
1 month, 1 week ago
There is no one perfect setting. I have a few settings I use for different experiences. Fatigue plays a big role in which setting feels right during any given experience. Fatigue increases, presumably, during any ride.
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cheapondirt
1 month, 1 week ago
Anecdote comes to mind of a much more skilled rider hopping on my bike and immediately observing the rebound was too fast. Meanwhile I was bouncing on his, wondering how he could find any traction with such a sloooow return. I guess he is storing so much more energy in the spring than I am, that it works for him. I did add a couple clicks after that and noticed my bike felt more calm. He was right, but I still can't wrap my head around his setup for the varied riding he does (i.e. not just hucks).
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Mark
1 month ago
Amidst some of the delightful discussions, one thing that was mentioned by a few people but hasn’t really been explored is how much suspension the rider has (legs, arms) and how they can use their body to really drive the bike hard.
So a question for everyone here is how much effort do you put into actually working the bike? Are you just along for the ride and letting the suspension go boing boing or are you an active participant and loading the bike/suspension when you can/should.
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Lynx .
1 month ago
I think this a very good and relative question one needs to answer and it will determine what/how you set your suspension up. If (big fvcking IF) you could somehow manage to always ride like they try to make you think they do in shredits, then your setup would be VERY different from that of your avg Joe who might give it a go sometimes along a trail, but mostly be letting the suspension do the work.
Me personally, even though I know what/how I should ride, I don't always and it shows in my speed and how fast I can corner etc., but when I do put in the effort, it's like a completely different ride/experience, but honestly, who can maintain that for an entire ride. Although you can't as easily just "sit there" on the rigid, you still can ride lazy and on this bike is where I really notice the difference between really moving/ pumping the bike, really throwing it over in the corners so those big side lugs on the 3.0" DHF can really engage.
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Justin White
3 weeks ago
Why wouldn't you set up your suspension (at least somewhat) for those "shredit" moments, even if they're not the entire ride? They're when you're putting the most energy into the system, probably have the highest risk (even if it's just a loss-of-traction low-side-slide off the trail, still breaks the flow), and arguably can be some of the most fun.
Yes, don't go so far into Rampage-setup-territory such that it's annoying/painful to ride the rest of the time, but I'm not setting my bike up to be intentionally ridden lazily because that makes the "give it a go" moments more difficult and/or dangerous.
Isn't the point kinda to find those fun moments and relish them, not to ride lazily and hold on for dear life when it gets sketch?
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Lynx .
2 weeks, 3 days ago
Justin, but I guess I do set my suspension fairly stiff, on regular rides I normally will only use about 75-80% travel, it's only when I hit the "real" DH trails that I use full travel, but wouldn't say fast (will be trying though to see how a bit faster feels). Then again, I also own and enjoy riding rigid, so any suspension for me, once there's some rebound dampening happening feels amazing, but most would not like my suspension or at least newer riders, those who do know how to ride/push hard seem to like it.
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Pete Roggeman
1 month ago
Big part of my lazy rider hypothesis. Agree with you here, Mark that there is a wide spectrum of rider effort and inputs that is an important ingredient in how all of these things (including suspension setup) impact bike performance and ride dynamics.
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DanL
1 month ago
so Debound then.
I'll get my coat
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cxfahrer
1 month, 1 week ago
IMHO with Fox Grip2 the recommended settings for LSR are way too slow, even for slow janky stuff. I run 8 or so, tried 10-12. Other forks behave different.
How does this all relate to the parking lot test - just as fast that the wheel does not pop back from the ground when pushed down with all force?
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Allen Lloyd
1 month, 1 week ago
I have always wondered why climb switches only adjust the compression tune and not rebound as well. It seems that suspension wise adjusting both could produce a positive impact on each activity.
Robo Duck also makes a great point that rider ability plays a huge part in all of this.
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Lynx .
1 month, 1 week ago
My RS Shock only has a hard lockout, which leaves the shock basically at full extension, it changes the geo quite a bit and feels like you're sitting on concrete, so I actually use the rebound to firm things up when I'm climbing, it's easy to reac, I go from absolutely all closed for road/smooth trail to open 2 or 3 clicks depending - my actual "open" setting is only 3-4 clicks open, which is about mid way on this shock.
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Justin White
1 month ago
Cane Creek switches adjust both, and it's super nice. They're also proportional: turn it a little to add a little damping, turn it a lot to add a lot of damping. And also usually don't reach the level of "lock-out" because it's just not needed for anything on trails, especially with their nice balanced slow-down in both directions.
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Jotegir
1 month, 1 week ago
When you're within 10% of max PSI on many production air shocks or running 600+ springs out of the gate I'm not sure this lesson applies. I've been on some shocks that at the sag I want to run, the rebound is uncontrollably and unusably fast running it as slow as possible prior to a custom tune. Obviously lots of shocks are better than others but at the pressures/spring rates I tend to run, I've always been far more concerned about control of how it moves through the travel versus how fast the shocks want to rebound. Without a tune, usually they want to rebound fast AF.
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Dave Tolnai
1 month, 1 week ago
Fair point. The fringes are always going to struggle with setup more than the middle.
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Velocipedestrian
1 month, 1 week ago
Have you tried a Bomber CR? I had the rebound full open, and had to keep upping the spring rate just to stop it packing down. I found a 600lb spring matched the stock tune at open rebound and 75kg rider.
There was something pretty funny about getting forced into a corner like that for someone so used to being in the meat of the bell curve when it comes to settings.
Had the shock retuned and dropped 100lb off the spring for a much happier ride.
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Jotegir
1 month, 1 week ago
Yes, I tried a Bomber CR with a 550/600 fall before last and it was an unridable pogo stick as slow as possible (we talked about this closer to the event too, lol). Any suspension compression event and it rocketed back to sag. Must be inconsistent from the factory I guess?
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fartymarty
1 month, 1 week ago
Velo - Have you tried more comp damping? I've gone to a more damper forward setup this year with my Ohlins coils. It seems to be better and keeps the chassis more stable as well. Also with longer bikes I have found I can run less rebound as the wheels are further apart.
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WolfTwenty1
1 month, 1 week ago
With Fox I find 1-3 clicks faster rebound and 1-3 clicks less compression from recommended seems to be the sweet spot on most terrain.
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Morgan Heater
1 month, 1 week ago
I find similar on the rebound, but 3-4 more clicks on the compression.
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Perry Schebel
1 month, 1 week ago
this. albeit, my float x damper is dying, so max blue knob has little effect, but i'm enjoying the squelchy noises.
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Justin White
1 month ago
Both of these help to show how rebound damping is very much more spring dependent, and compression damping is much more rider/terrain/style dependent.
You both (and almost every one I know) prefer approx the same amount faster rebound than recommended, showing that while Fox's recommendations may not be aligned perfectly, they are proportional.
How does your spring rate compare to Fox's recs? I tend to run a bit less pressure than they suggest for my weight, and thus a lot less rebound damping by weight. But if you went just by the pressure, it's only moderately less damping then the recs.
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Morgan Heater
1 month ago
I'm usually shooting for around 20% sag for spring pressure, which is usually about 15% more than fox recommends on their forks.
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Justin White
1 month ago
Now I'm curious what they're currently recommending for initial sag, or if they're just saying to follow the weight chart... It used to be 25% like 20 years ago, then it went to 15% for a few years, kind of corresponding to CTD and other dampers known for being way underdamped in "open"-mode, then maybe 20% again? I wouldn't be surpised if their listed pressures are back to aiming for 25% sag.
I actually have no idea what my current sag is, because I've had this setup (2020 Fox 36 Grip2, Cane Creek DB Air IL) for almost 5 years and only know the pressures I like (the DB is basically maxed out!). Probably set it 25%-ish sag in the beginning and then tweaked pressures to suit me, pretty much ignoring sag from then on unless it's egregiously large.
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Lynx .
1 month ago
I'll jump in on this one with my thoughts and how I do it and it seems to work well for me and others I've set bikes up for....... I don't bother with SAG for the fork (not something that's easy to do solo or accurately IMHO), I will normally put in around the rec pressure and then test it to see how far it will move into its travel when I go gorilla on it and jump/press down on the bars as hard and sudden as I can. If it moves through anywhere from 40-50% travel, then from there, I'll do the "ram test" where I pedal the bike up to about 10-12mph and then get into the attack position and slam into a 4-6" curb and see how much travel it uses and if it's balanced to what the rear uses, how they feel together. If the travel front to rear is even, not above 50% and rebound felt similar, then from there I take it to the trail ride it and see how it feels/works and then add or reduce pressure or other adjustments from there.
XXX_er
1 month, 1 week ago
I found keep ones eye on the ZEB so I could run lot less air than one would think cuz over forked
but keep the right preload volume on the rear shox is a must
then twiddle with the knobs till happy ness is acheieved
we are all special flowers eh so always have a piece of curb with ya everywhere you go
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Justin White
1 month ago
"until around the 5% mark, where is slows considerably before hitting top out. ...similar to... slow rebound... I’m going to speculate that this is an interaction between slow and high speed rebound settings"
I'd speculate this is an artifact of the Fox's strong pneumatic top-out and big negative spring force at full extension. My 32 pound bike self-sags it's Fox 36 by about 3-4mm when just setting it down not-gently, and if you then pick it up very-gently, it sometimes stays that few mm down for a moment until the weight of the wheel overcomes the static friction and negative spring force combined. It's a wonderfully balanced spring for awesome smoothness off-the-top.
And pretty sure you're going to be into the low-speed range well before the last 5% of a full extension rebound event, meaning any high-low-speed interaction it's going to have much effect by in that position.
Fox never caved to the clueless rider/youtuber claims that they were "losing travel" due to a strong negative spring force near top-out. Unlike SRAM with their many pointless spring revisions and subsequent reversions to prior behavior.
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Justin White
1 month ago
Also makes me wonder what the graph for the other fork would look like if it wasn't mechanically stopped by the fact of being at max extension. The Selva's curve just slams into the bottom, looking a lot like the overshoot curve with the bottom chopped off. So it gets to maximum extension marginally faster, but it's not smooth about it.
"the [Selva's] histogram (not shown) shows a bit of a spike in the 0-5% travel bracket"
Perhaps that's because it's so (overly) quick to get back to that 0% travel position, that spike is kind of indacating an overshoot/underdamped condition at the very lowest speeds, And you simply can't see it in the travel graph because it's being clipped by the mechanical travel limits. At hard bottom-out would look similar: going steeply up and slamming into the 100% limit.
The graphs for the rear all show a top-out curve similar for the Fox 36...
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moraucf
1 month ago
Another complication is where on the continuum of Low, mid, and high speed rebound is best to "speed up". After trying a bunch of shocks and working with a few tuners I have come to find that I like a fairly closed LSC dial to give me a good amount of low speed rebound dampening, I can tolerate and prefer a very fast mid speed rebound, and then enough progressively/HSR in the damping curve to prevent kicking at bottom out/whoops.
I am most sensitive to "mid speed" rebound but on most stock suspension with just LSR dial, to get mid speed rebound fast enough, my low speed ends up way to fast for my prefference.
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rojo
1 month ago
The analysis would be much easier to understand in the frequency domain rather than time domain, then it would be easier to spot at which frequency the ride is improving.
Essentially this graph:
https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/rockshox-technology/buttercups
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Duck
1 month ago
I weigh in at around 150 geared up, and definitely run my rebound close to wide open on most suspension from RS/Ohlins. I cannot ride almost any Fox stock tune due to too much rebound damping. I tried many, set wide open, and just couldn't get the bike off the ground.
My philosophy on rebound is "as fast as you can control". That means I have to "ride" my bike, and won't get away with just cruising, but it allows me to grip in corners and more importantly jump over whatever I see in my way. The slower my rebound, the harder it is to "pump" through a technical downhill trail as the bike just stays low and doesn't "spring back".
Had a funny anecdote when I have met a (very tall) fella(Brad or something?) who apparently was behind tunes working at Fox. I had a fleet of fox equipped bikes to maintain and felt like I couldn't really set almost any of them up as the rebound would be too slow even wide open. So I asked if he ever heard such complaint (which I confirmed with SuspensioWerx to be fairly common), and he says no way. So I showed him my bike on RS, said that's how I like my rebound, and he told me that's basically unrideable and there's no way I could jump it. Obviously I could. Well I walked away knowing that I clearly have a different approach to suspension than Fox. I wonder if it has anything to do with this fella being about twice as heavy as me, but I'm happy other brands let me open it up.
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Justin White
1 month ago
Did he have any reasoning behind claiming it would be un-jumpable? Because the claim that too fast rebound hurts jumping has been debunked a few times, and most importantly for this context by Jordi himself.
A jump take-off is purely a compression event, it just doesn't matter how fast your suspension extends once you're off the jump, because if you do it right the bike stays loaded right until it's off the lip. Of course, too fast rebound could effect the approach if the run-up is chunky and it's throwing you off balance, or if you land a bit too far over the front on a steep & deep landing and can't handle the jounce. Or if you're actually trying to pre-jump before the lip and fast rebound throws off your timing.
A statement like that makes me question the "apparent ... behind tunes working at Fox". As too Fox products not letting you open it up as fast a you like, you may be on the lower end of their rider weight spectrum. I'm 220 geared up, run a bit less pressure than they recommend in my 36 Grip2, and also a few clicks less rebound that they recommend for that pressure, which ends up being about 4 from closed, so I could totally see a much lighter rider running much less pressure having trouble getting light enough damping. Meanwhile, on RS stuff I sometimes find them quite lacking in [controlled] compression damping, so it seems like they each aim their generic tuning windows at different rider weight ranges. I'd want a custom tune on a RockShox to really enjoy it, and you'd probably want a custom tune on a Fox... goes both ways.
Although, I wonder about "I tried many, set wide open, and just couldn't get the bike off the ground." Off the ground in what context? A j-hop/proper-bunny-hop? Rebound speed shouldn't effect this, it's a compression event on the rear suspension and the front should be unloaded. Jumping off proper jumps? Same, a compression event.
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Duck
1 week, 4 days ago
I think you hit the nail on the head with rider weight. I'm about 65kg, and found rebound too slow even if I tried using way too much air pressure.
I guess I'm talking more about natural jumps - pulling off roots and small terrain undulations. In these situations I just feel like fox just doesn't want to take off. I honestly have tried the full range of settings on many bikes (I had a fleet of over 100 bikes to maintain, majority on fox) and interestingly, some of the lower end stuff had enough range, but almost none of the top end I could actually ride comfortably without changing internal tunes.
I guess I could identify as a pretty aggressive rider, I've been told by much stronger riders recently that I run my suspension stiff for my weight, so I'd have thought I'd be able to set a fox fork up, but I just can't. I also have tuned some shim stacks and made my own air springs so I think I do have an idea about suspension, just a vastly different idea from the fox folks it seems.
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