
First Impressions
Shimano GRX Di2 2x12 Speed Gruppo + Wheels
When Shimano launched 12-speed GRX – the blue brand’s gravel specific moniker – it came with all the marketing lingo you’d expect. Everything from gearing options to the hoods' ‘ribbed surface texture’ has been ‘optimized’ for gravel. Chain management has been improved, and the words “clearance”, “aerodynamics”, and “flared” feature regularly.
At its technological heart, the new GRX system rolls around on HYPERGLIDE+ (HG+) with a SHADOW RD+ clutch-equipped derailleur, shifting 12 rear gears, through a “semi-wireless” configuration. This lack of cockpit wiring is probably the most noticeable change over the previous GRX. It comes in an array of 1x, 2x, mechanical, and battery-equipped Di2 options. Notably, if you want to go Shimano electronic and want gear range, your only current option is the 2x system. If you’re looking for a wide range 1x setup you’ll have to shop elsewhere or wait until Shimano finally drops the long-awaited, rumoured-to-be-fully-wireless new XTR Di2 group to play mix & match.
For review, I’ve got a full 2x Di2 gruppo: brifters, rear derailleur, cassette, crankset, and yes… a front derailleur. It’s been 8 years since NSMB reviewed a 2x drivetrain; the XTR Di2 and portmanteau equipped “Thundervolt” was likely the last 2x bike seen on NSMB until the Canyon Grizl, a bike I reviewed and almost immediately converted to wide range 1x11 speed and complained about the lack of gear resolution.

The first gravel bike NSMB reviewed was the Canyon Grizl - I really liked this bike but having a front derailleur wasn't for me.

I replaced some pieces with a kit from Garbaruk - while I enjoyed the simplicity and lightness, the gear range was a bit much for 11 speeds and I struggled with the lack of gear resolution.
To pair with the 2x12-speed Di2 gruppo, Shimano included the also-new GRX wheelset. The carbon WH-RX880 hoops are held together with 24 spokes and come with the 2024 requirement of “gravel-optimized aerodynamics”.
I don’t have thousands of kilometers aboard the gruppo or wheels yet, but I’ve mounted them all to the Kona Ouroboros as a test mule, and have some impressions through installation and setup, as well as a bit of initial riding.

The Kona Ouroboros has been in for long term review, and it's the test mule for the GRX bits. We'll get a full review up on it in the near future; summer has been busy.
Groupset Options & Hardware
Shimano launched three 12-speed GRX groups in the fall of 2023 – two 1x options, and a 2x. Battery afficionados would have to wait until May 2024 for Di2 to arrive, available solely in 2x, but with a couple bits to mix and match for gearing. As you'd hope given the shared semi-wireless architecture and other components, you can mix and match with pieces from Shimano's road line as well. As long as they're the current generation you can choose which brifters you prefer, and whether or not you want a clutch. Take note the crankset chainline is +2.5mm more outboard on GRX for tire clearance, so you'll need to ensure you have a matching front derailleur.
As of writing, there's no way to mix in mountain bike cassettes and rear derailleurs. Mountain Di2 still relies on the earlier fully-wired configuration with junction boxes. Without spoiling too much of this review, that's probably the drivetrain I'd be gunning for if I were building a Shimano gravel bike: a 'mullet' configuration with road crankset and brifters paired with a wide range mountain rear derailleur.
Is 2025 the year we'll finally see an update to XTR Di2? Will it be fully wireless? Only time will tell.

Shimano offers GRX in three ranges - only the 2x comes in Di2 at the moment. I'm not going to go deep on gear range here - let's save that for the full review.
Chainrings | Actuation | Crankset | Front Gearing | Rear Derailleur | Cassette | Cassette Range |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mechanical | FC-RX820-1 | 40, 42 | RD-RX822-GS | CS-M8100-12 | 10-45 |
1 | Mechanical | FC-RX822-1 | 40, 42 | RD-RX822-SGS | CS-M8100-12 | 10-51 |
2 | Mechanical | FC-RX820-2 | 48/31 | RD-RX820 | CS-R8101-12 | 11-34 |
CS-HG710-12 | 11-36 | |||||
2 | Electronic | FC-RX820-2 | 48/31 | RD-RX825 | CS-R8101-12 | 11-34 |
CS-HG710-12 | 11-36 |
Let’s have a look at the various components that make up the review gruppo.

The heart, brains, and what you need to plug in to charge the seattube-mounted battery, the RD-RX825 rear derailleur seems to have an unnecessarily long cage, until you remember there's all those front rings, too.

The wires and plugs seem slightly flimsy to me, however I've had no issues and they've been relatively unchanged on Di2 for ages without heaps of complaints, an indicator that perhaps it's all in my head.

The clutch on/off switch will be familiar to anyone who's used a Shimano Shadow+ derailleur - if you've gotten a mountain (or some road) bike with Shimano on it since 2011, this will be a familiar feature.

Two rings and a front derailleur. I'm running 172.5mm cranks, and the requisite 48/31t chainrings. The crankset is a carryover from 11-speed GRX, so you can cross that cost off your upgrade list if you've already got one.

The front derailleur remains largely unchanged from previous versions, however be aware you can't swap to road cranksets without changing the derailleur and vice versa given GRX's +2.5mm spacing.

That spacing is what helps give heaps of clearance for larger rubber - the derailleur has no issue clearing the 50c Maxxis Ravagers that came on the Ouroboros, or these 45c Schwalbe G-One Rs.

Brake calipers are also unchanged, and are derived from the Ultegra/road side of Shimano's business.

The front required a spacer for my preferred 160mm rotors, attached via centerlock to the GRX wheelset. There's no 6-bolt option.

The most tactile revision and differences with the road lineup are the brifters - optimized for flared handlebars.

Shimano calls the system "semi-wireless" - this means the brifters are self-contained. There's still wires from a central battery to the derailleurs.

Two fully-configurable buttons on each lever blade.

Plus a spare button on the hoods - you can set what each does in E-Tube, including connecting to peripherals like some cycling computers.

Textured, for everyone's grip and pleasure.
Disclaimer
I’ve been using SRAM AXS components on most of my bikes for a long time. I’m very comfortable with the AXS app, connecting hardware, and I’ve done everything from firmware updates to determining chain length heaps of times. And if I have trouble, I have friends at SRAM I can directly annoy with questions. Despite Shimano launching Di2 into the drop bar world a whopping fifteen years ago and a full decade of Di2 in the mountain bike realm, I’ve never ridden it or used the software. Why I mention this is it’s been a learning process for me; I’ve struggled with some bits of the installation, been very confused by the app, but it’s very likely that some of my frustrations of challenges are just a function of me being integrated into another system.
Think of it this way; I’m also a long-time Android user, and if you threw me a Blackberry the first time I needed to change the lock screen I’d probably get frustrated. Now that setup is complete, and I have enough knowledge to adjust things on the fly instead of needing to Google-search, everything on the software front is improving.

Shimano included a set of WH-RX880 wheels to go with GRX gruppo. These carbon hoops come in just shy of 1,400 grams and have transformed the feel of the Ouroboros.

Hubs are a proprietary Shimano design, and are relatively quiet. Engagement is very solid and direct.

The G-One R is one of my favorite all-around tires at the moment. Tubeless setup was as painless as it gets.

With a 25mm inner width the rims are slightly on the conservative end of modern gravel wheels, but give these Schwalbes an excellent rounded profile. So far, impressions are snappy yet comfortable.
Software
I know, I know. Some of you are horrified we have to have a software section. But it's an important part of the experience for modern electronic drivetrains, and functionality and user experience here is important, especially with a front derailleur. It's also a mandatory part of initial setup if you're not having your local bike shop do your installation, and even then, there's some fiddling and setup changes you may want to make with your new investment that'll require the gracefully named E-Tube Project Cylist app.
Overall, I've found E-Tube to be somewhat confusing and complicated. And while some of that is absolutely me (see above disclaimer), the mark of a good app is a user interface that doesn't require experience and is intuitive to use on the first time. Talking to a couple of full-time wrenches, the consensus was that while most of the apps (SRAM, Bosch, Shimano) have their issues, Shimano's is "not easy to navigate" and " they bring a legacy hardware development mindset to [software] development." Using the Android/Blackberry analogy above, if you tossed me an iPhone I'd bet it wouldn't take long to get up to speed, as Apple spends inordinate amounts of time and money ensuring the user experience feels innate.
As an example, it took me an embarrassingly long amount of time to figure out why my fully-synchronized shifting wasn't working. You can set shift points in the app for your front derailleur (and how many gears you'd like to change simultaneously in the rear), but I was only ever getting manual mode, despite 'applying changes' in the app. As it turns out, you have to double tap the hardware button on the rear derailleur, and know what colour and combination of blinking LED light indicates which mode you're in. While simple enough now that I'm aware, it's not the most straightforward process.

After some initialization procedures and setup, this is what you see when E-Tube is open, and connected to your bike. Opening each component opens menus for configuration and adjustment. Don't forget to push the 'Disconnect' button when you're done - the drivetrain won't function until you do.

This is how I currently have my buttons configured; I still need to experiment with the new "Front Shift Next" feature.

Configuring shift points for the fully synchronized shift mode.

As I said, it's detailed. There's even animations to show what changes will look like.

Firmware updates are possible through the app, with the exception of the brifters which require a cabled connection and paid version of the app. Your local bike shop probably has this.
All that said, now that I'm somewhat accustomed to the flow of E-Tube it's certainly workable, and it's not something users should need to use frequently after everything is set up. There's an enormous amount of functionality within the app, shift speeds, shift points, you name it. Other than brifter firmware updates (which requires a cable and the 'Professional' version of E-Tube), if there's something you want to change about how your drivetrain reacts to button presses you can probably tweak it in E-Tube.
Cost and Weight
None of these parts come particularly cheap - after all this is the top of the line for Shimano's gravel lineup. All in, if you're going for a new build and not carrying anything over, you're looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $3,400 after all the rotors, wiring, and the like. While certainly an eyewatering price tag, this is a couple hundred dollars cheaper than Big Red's recently released full-mount 1x13-speed SRAM Red XPLR group. It's also a big number as it's not how we mountain bikers are used to building bikes, ordinarily separating out various components to mix and match brakes, cranksets, and drivetrain - that $3,400 figure is all-in.
Component | Shimano ID | Price (CAD) | Weight (g) |
---|---|---|---|
Brifters and Brakes (x2) | ST-RX825 | $1,480 | 810 |
Rear derailleur | RD-RX825 | $540 | 310 |
Front derailleur | FD-RX825 | $280 | 142 |
Cassette | CS-HG-801-12 | $160 | 345 |
Chain | CN-M8100 | $71 | 247 |
Battery | BT-DN300 | $245 | 53 |
Crankset | FC-RX820-2 | $330 | 7.25 |
Riding Impressions
I'm working on logging enough mileage on this drivetrain to speak confidently about it. Given Shimano's history, I don't have any serious durability or longevity concerns.* My first rides were a bit of faff. There was a lot of stop/start as I learned to efficiently navigate E-Tube to adjust shift points and behaviour. I'm also unable to really take advantage of all the buttons available as I use a Hammerhead computer; after SRAM's acquisition of the brand Shimano (somewhat understandably) requested they remove support for Di2. This doesn't have any real impact on riding, but if you're a real data nerd it's something to take note of. I also wish I could assign one of those buttons to a dropper post, but sadly there's nothing compatible - and before you ask, it's a different wireless protocol than the new Fox post.
*Well, ok. We'll keep an eye on the crankset.
Shifting is what we've all come to expect from Shimano Hyperglide+: solid. Shifts are quick and precise, and while not as smooth as SRAM T-Type, they're faster. So far, even with fully synchronized shifting, I'm not sold on having a front derailleur again. Sure, gear resolution is nice, but I'm not convinced this is the appropriate place on the gear range/gear resolution spectrum for me. I'll do some more back to back with SRAM Red XPLR to compare shift speed and quality, and we'll think hard about range and resolution for the full review.
Chain retention has been good so far - although I haven't fully explored the "limits" of what the Ouroboros can do with the new drivetrain, so we'll see how it does on some real mtb-lite trails and whether or not it can keep everything engaged across multiple chainrings. There's enough tension in the clutch to keep everything relatively quiet, however given the electronic actuation I'd like to see a little more tension (in a mechanical system this can impact the force required for downshifts with your thumb, this isn't the case here).
The hood shape is comfortable, and the brake levers themselves are well positioned for flared bars, taking little effort to pull. This was somewhere the previous GRX excelled as well, and the small revisions in the move to 12-speed haven't dampened performance.
I'm looking forward to thrashing this around in the wet and muddy conditions to come here, thus far the worst conditions that've been thrown at the gruppo are all moon-dust related. I'll keep you updated, after we log some more miles!
Shimano GRX Di2 2x12 Speed Gruppo

One of several reasons I haven't logged a whole ton of miles aboard the new GRX is pictured here - summer has been full of travel and trips.

The Ouroboros is a bit of an analogy for Kona as a brand, now that it's been repurchased by the founders. More on the bike soon.

Comments
JohnC
6 months, 2 weeks ago
Great thorough review as always. I committed to a 2X for my gravel and glad I did. I don't expect to run tires that will interfere with a front derailleur and having a 2X gives the close ratios at the back that is so helpful on mixed surfaces, especially loaded with gear. The GRX 2X shifts so well and have never dropped a chain even on rougher XC trails.
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
Yep if you need gear range and resolution, 2x is hard to beat. I'm planning on diving in a bit more to the gear range/resolution tradeoffs in a future GRX piece.
Earlier this year I circumnavigated the SF Bay Area on 1x fully loaded, but everyone's preferences will vary.
https://nsmb.com/articles/bay-area-by-bike/
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HMBA106
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I agree, I’m team 2x for gravel. You just can’t beat the versatility thanks to better range and tight steps, and the only downside (other than having two shifters) is reduced chainring clearance of a 48t ring on some trails if you’re pushing the boundaries of intended use. SRAM’s new 13 speed still doesn’t match a 2x11 in terms of range and gear steps - plus it’s stupid expensive and has batteries.
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I don't want to give too much away, because we'll dive much deeper into range and resolution and whatnot in a follow up - but... the differences maybe aren't as great as people think. Especially for range - with a 40t front ring, a 1x Red XPLR setup offers a nearly identical low gear, and only loses ~4kph @ 90 RPM cadence in the high gear. Or you can split the difference with a 42t. So the 460% vs 507% range is very different on paper, but maybe not so much in the real world.
Yes you lose some resolution, especially in the lower end of the cassette, but I'm not convinced it matters as much as some folks make out. But the caveat here is... that's me, and everyone has the right to decide what matters for them!
Red is definitely way more expensive, but it's also a different level product than this GRX - this is basically XT/Ultegra/Force/GX, not DuraAce.
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Timer
6 months, 1 week ago
If you fancy a 1x13 setup without batteries and not-quite-as-stupid pricing, the Campa Ekar groupset is very nice.
Plus I think it looks better than Srams or Shimanos offerings.
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 1 week ago
I'm super curious about Ekar. But it's as rare as hen's teeth... has anyone ever actually *seen* it?
(This could also be a function of my geography and riding habits...)
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Jan
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I have a pretty strong preference to "recent" shimano stuff over sram, but would tend to agree e-tube is clunky and borderline dogsht. For the unaware, a dedicated Dutchman has made it his life goal to elucidate Di2 setup and documentation: bettershifting.com. Nice guy, really helped me sort out integrating a di2 shifter and system screen into an EP8.
Anyway, I have a 2x D2 Force group on one bike and R8150 group on another. Even with metallic pads I find the Force brakes leave something to be desired compared to the latest Shimano road stuff. Can you comment on the RX825 brakes vs the E1 Red stuff you own/test? I gave up on an XPLR group because I found the gear resolution unacceptable. The 13s E1 makes a compelling case, but it's too expensive to "try"
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I haven't see this website... cool! Imma have to scroll around in here for a bit.
Braking on the new SRAM brifters is a massive improvement over the d1/d2 generation - GRX used to be a clear winner here, especially with lighter lever effort, but not so much anymore.
I need to do some daycare runs on GRX to compare. It's a big, long, steep hill and with 80lbs of extra mass is a good test. But that requires getting a new trailer hitch because I only have one for a 27.2 post.
The resolution thing is obviously preference for folks - I sometimes run 10-52 Transmission and do find the jumps annoying at times, but once things tighten up a bit I'm not fussed.
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Mike Ferrentino
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I've been noodling around on an Ouroboros CR/DL lately, with the 2x SRAM Rival setup. At first I was saddened to see not just battery shifting but also my first front derailleur in about 15 years. Now? I'm stoked. I am too much of a rube to really be concerned about resolution, but I am so happy to see a rear cassette and derailleur that don't look like mis-proportioned cartoons.
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
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Abies
6 months, 2 weeks ago
Surprised there's so much excitement about 2x in the comments. I have an admittedly bastardized 1x system on my gravel bike, but having gone back and forth, I do not miss the closer ratios at all after converting the GRX double to 1x. But then my gravel routes generally include very little road and I am not trying to train at super specific cadence, just going on bike rides. I just did a big section of the Idaho Hot Springs bikepacking loop and 38 x 10-46 was plenty of range even for my weekend warrior fitness level. 38 x 10-50 would have been perfect. https://www.adventurecycling.org/routes-and-maps/adventure-cycling-route-network/idaho-hot-springs-mountain-bike-route/
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Pete Roggeman
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I'd be curious to know how much someone's affinity for resolution is impacted by their average cadence - which is obviously dictated by a ton of other factors including terrain. MTB riders --> gravel probably have different ideas than roadies --> gravel riders, too. When I rode road, this would have mattered a lot.
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BarryW
6 months, 2 weeks ago
This would be interesting.
I spin a pretty fast cadence (90-95) and I like being pretty much right there, so I think if I were riding gravel the 2X with finer resolution would actually be my preference. My love of the simplicity of 1X notwithstanding.
Right now I've only got the mtb, but I've been spending a decent amount of time thinking about a more 'all road' type bike and if that could/should be a gravel bike or a flat bar commuter type. And that 1X vs. 2X is a tough one when I'm looking.
And as you mentioned Pete, my cadence preferences were set by training for road as a young teenager. Now it's what feels good and keeps my knees happy pushing less load a little more often.
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I think a big factor is whether or not you're regularly riding in groups - that's about the only time I maybe care about any resolution deficit created by my 1x setup.
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Pete Roggeman
6 months, 2 weeks ago
Group rides are probably the biggest factor, yeah.
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Abies
6 months, 1 week ago
Yeah. Competitive gravel riding/pacing in groups is pretty far from the type of riding I’m doing these days! For more adventure focused riders I don’t see the downside of 1x.
Even when I was competitive in cyclocross and XC I rode 1x or single speed, and most of my road training was solo. I’ve never been a road racer so probably never developed those specific cadence habits, and the aforementioned single speed might have built in some bad pedaling habits along the way.
Andy Eunson
6 months, 1 week ago
Having tight ratios in a race situation can be important. I recall being in a race in White Rock where cat 1 2 and 3 raced together. I was a 3. We were still using 6 speed freewheels. I needed a 15 cog but my block went 13,14,16. Got shelled really quickly but I was outclassed anyway. But back then with 2 by 6 drivetrains it was common to be "between gears".
Even mtb racing we didn’t have the range on the cassettes so you needed a triple for that. Chain suck and dropping chains was something you put up with. Doubles still have a place. I wouldn’t want a gravel bike with a double myself but that’s a non racing perspective. Or for big long days where you might really want to be in a certain gear. I do gravel rides on my hardtail and I’m perfectly happy with one by 12 XT drivetrains. It’s not important for me to find a perfect gear and cadence. I do like to grind at 70 -80 cadence. On a road bike I was a 90 - 100 rpm rider. So it makes sense that for smooth gravel I’d like a ‘double.
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SixZeroSixOne
6 months, 2 weeks ago
Just FYI: I got an email from Shimano about two days ago saying their E-Tube app has some compatibly problems with Android 15 which Shimano have to work on. So, just be aware of this...
Also, for anyone not familiar with Di2, there is absolutely NO need to actually tweak the gear changes as the factory defaults are plenty good enough so all the horrors of E-tube & firmware can be reserved for geeks.
I run 2*11 Ultegra Di2 on my road bike and love it. I've got it set up in fully synchronous mode using the right hand shifter but I still use the left hand shifter to (only) drop from big chain ring to little chain ring as I find that a lot smoother than the default synchronous method (which drops from big to little chain ring AND shifts UP the cassette at the same time). It's the shifting up of the cassette at the same time which makes the overall change somewhat clunky (but I'm not running HG+ so maybe that's not an issue now)
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
Yeah, I also got that email. Didn't mention it as Android users (like me...) should be used to compatibility app issues at this point, hahahha. Also this was written well before that email.
I'd agree that you don't *need* to dive into E-Tube deeply, but some understanding of the setup and maintenance modes is worthwhile for folks.
That's an interesting button setup I might try... I'm not in love with the fully synchronous shifting. But it doesn't escape the issues you describe (which I also have) with the simultaneous shifting. It's much better if you only go two rear gears at with a front shift, but then you're left with a big gear jump; three means you get nice tight ratios but the shift is clunky and feels awful.
More trial and error to be done on my part as time goes on here!
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SixZeroSixOne
6 months, 2 weeks ago
@cooperquinn
Does GRX come with setup buttons on the shifters themselves? I ask as my Ultegra allows me to switch between manual, semi-syncronous and fully synchronous modes AND do minor rear derailleur index trims all without use of E-tube at all....
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I'm not sure about setup with the buttons - I'll have to dive into the manual. I didn't see it, but I could be mistaken. That'd be way better than having to use the hardware button on the RD, obviously. You can do some trimming and adjustment with the brifter buttons.
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Jotegir
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I wonder if this whole gravel thing is going to be the key to start seeing front deralleur mounts feature on XC bikes again, what with the not insignificant number of folks "converting" xc hardtails to flat bar gravel bikes these days.
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Cooper Quinn
6 months, 2 weeks ago
I'd be pretty surprised, but I've been wrong before.
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Todd Hellinga
6 months, 2 weeks ago
a shame the Classified hub is so expensive, because THAT actually seems like a great solution.
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ClydeRide
6 months, 2 weeks ago
Nah.
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