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Review

Shimano GRX Di2 1x12

Photos Cooper Quinn, unless noted.
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For mountain bikers, it's been a busy month in the electronic drivetrain world, with Shimano launching the long-awaited XTR Di2 and quickly trickling down the fully-wireless technology to XT and Deore mere days later. If you somehow missed those announcements, or need a refresher and a full breakdown on the technology, riding impressions, and more, Pete has you covered for XTR and Uncle Dave got the lower-cost componentry unboxed.

In the drop bar world, it's also been busy. In the short window between the XTR Di2 and XT/Deore Di2 launches, SRAM trickled down the full-wireless, full-mount, 1x only Red XPLR 13 speed group to Force and Rival level. I reviewed Shimano's semi-wireless 2x12 GRX gruppo last year but if you wanted a wide-range one-by setup from Japan, you were limited to mechanical. The astute among you will be able to figure out this leaves Big Blue one offroad hole left to fill, with wireless Di2 technology: 1x GRX Di2, which lands today.

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Fresh out of the box and mounted on my custom Landyatchz 1146 Titanium gravel machine.

I've got a lightly checkered past with GRX, Shimano's flagship gravel gruppo, here on NSMB. The first gravel bike review this site ever saw - the Canyon Grizl - came with a 2x11 mechanical setup I converted to 1x using parts from Ukrainian/Polish machining company Garbaruk left me unsatisfied with its low gear resolution. I probably should have seen that coming, but it was an interesting experiment and the Garbaruk components were great.

More recently, I reviewed the Japanese giant's 2x12 "semi-wireless" GRX Di2 variant, and while it wasn't lacking in performance and will fill the needs of many riders well, the addition of batteries and electronic brains wasn't enough to overcome my general bias against using two derailleurs offroad.

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The first gravel bike NSMB reviewed was the excellent Canyon Grizl - I converted the 2x11 mechanical GRX to a wide-range 1x11 setup from Garbaruk. Gear resolution was lacking. Photo: Deniz Merdano

Components

The spoiler here is that there's (almost) no new components here. The heart of the GRX 1x system is RD-RX827-SGS, a re-badged XT derailleur identical to the one Dave showed last week and only available in the long-cage SGS configuration. This runs a chain up and down the same CS-M8200-12 cassette; if you're using the GRX derailleur, you're constrained to the 10-51 variant. User input is enabled by the ST-RX825 brifters I reviewed as part of the 2x system. The BR-RX820 brakes are unchanged (they do not use the new low viscosity fluid), and the FC-RX820-1 crankset is pulled from the existing 1x12 mechanical GRX gruppo, available with 40 or 42 teeth, and in 170, 172.5, and 175mm lengths. The only new component available today is BL-RX825-L, a left side brake lever that eschews any electronics and cabling for cost - and weight savings.

GRX Di2 Components

As of last week, you could have assembled most of this gruppo with a mix of XT and GRX branding, with road/gravel brifters controlling a mountain derailleur and cassette - gravel folks have referred to this as a 'mullet' setup and pairing SRAM AXS Eagle components with AXS brifters for years, but the wired/semi-wired nature of Shimano and other compatibility issues left their users in the lurch.

Effectively, this is what gravel folks refer to as a 'mullet' setup - with drop-bar brifters paired up to a 1x mountain bike derailleur and cassette for a wider gear range. Bikepackers and touring folks have been cobbling together various solutions to do this with cable-operated systems for years - bikepacking.com has a good breakdown from 2021 of options that existed at the time. I used a kit from Ratio Technology to convert my SRAM 1x11 1-42 Force drivetrain to shift a 1x12 Eagle derailleur over a 10-52 cassette in 2018; from 2019 onwards folks who ride SRAM have been pairing AXS mountain components with AXS brifters, and these setups have won everything from Unbound to Leadville under guys like Keegan Swenson, and helped bikepackers get their heavy Tour Divide rigs up all the hills from Banff to Antelope Wells.

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On the mountain side, Shimano has been clear about their reasons to stick with derailleur hangars. Fortunately, those with UDH bikes are able to run components from any manufacturer. Gone are the days of binders of hangers. I pulled a random UDH hanger out of a bin and bolted it up after I'd removed my full-mount SRAM derailleur.

Pricing

As you'd expect from a fully wireless electronic drivetrain, none of this comes cheap. However, given the backwards compatibility with previous generations of components, those upgrading can expect to find some savings by keeping some of their existing components. Eschewing buttons on the left side brifter also saves 250 USD, should you choose to go that route - given there's three buttons on the right side, you should be able to find a configuration that works.

Description Part Number USD MSRP CAD MSRP Weight (g)
Left Brifter & Brake, BL-RX825 IRX8208DLF6SC100 345 443 395
Right Brifter & Brake ,ST-RX825 IRX8251DRRDSC170A 595 808 415
160mm Disc Rotor, Centerlock IRTCL800SI 70 89 169
160mm Disc Rotor, Centerlock IRTCL800SI 70 89 169
Crankset, 170-175mm, 40 or 42T IFCRX8201CXB0 280 363 656 (w/ 42t)
RD-RX827 IRDRX827SGSA 565 769 454
Battery Charger IECDN100A 45 64 n/a
Battery IBTDN320A 55 76 26.5
Cassette, CS-M8200-12 ICSM8200051 195 261 463
Chain, CN-M8100 ICNM8100138Q 62 72 252
2282 3034

Setup/installation

Installation of GRX is a familiar procedure that anyone with a modicum of experience on hydraulic brifters and Shimano derailleurs will be capable of. My T47 bottom bracket required an aftermarket solution as Shimano doesn't make one, but otherwise it was straightforward to get everything hung and bled. Then, it was on to electronics.

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The green Shimano assembly grease brings back deep memories of being a shop-grom, assembling bikes on weekends and after school. Housed inside there is the new dual-spring setup.

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With the cover pulled, you can see where the 305mAh battery sits inside the derailleur.

I made no secret of the fact that I didn't get along with Shimano's app - E-Tube Project Cyclists - in my previous electronic GRX review. This is still true, I find it frustratingly slow and not a great user experience. I believe it's a product of a culture I see in many aspects of Shimano's products - it's deeply ingrained in the company that the solution is whatever the engineering department decides; how else do you defend the continued use of cup-and-cone hubs other than a data deep-dive on energy and watts. But cup-and-cone hubs suffer from the same issue that ultimately killed the previous mountain derailleur clutches; while they were a great solution on paper, without proper maintenance, performance degraded. And the average consumer isn't adjusting hubs, or derailleur clutches. Sometimes, the quantitatively 'correct' engineering solution isn't the best one for the real world.

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I was somewhat surprised to find I hadn't binned my cone wrenches a decade ago. I located them deep in an ancient toolbox.

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Cup and cone hubs - when properly adjusted and maintained - roll incredibly fast. But the rest of the user experience leaves something to be maintained. Shimano mountain hubs now often come with sealed bearings.

With that said, there's no arguing that E-Tube provides a deep level of customization and options that aren't available in other electronic drivetrain ecosystems. Unlike some competitors, using the app is also required for setup and initial pairing of components, using a combination of physical buttons on the components and QR codes. Firmware updates to the derailleur are possible, however updates to the brifters require a shop to plug in with cables. I connected to the new derailleur, paired up my brifters, and it was on to setup. While my b-tension and limit screw adjustment muscles haven't been used in some time, decades of muscle memory meant I was on to trimming the derailleur inside E-Tube, and on the groad, in short order with some baseline control settings.

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Limit and b-tension adjustment screws are something I haven't monkeyed with in a couple of years, but are straightforward if you've done it before.

Riding Impressions

I've got about 200 kilometers on the group so far, so consider these impressions preliminary. I think one of the most interesting things is how "Shimano shifting" this feels - despite being controlled by electromagnetic waves travelling through the air. Shifts feel distinctly different from SRAM's gravel-specific Force XPLR kit it replaced on my bike. It's hard to describe - but it's almost a more delicate feeling, like the derailleur is gently coaxing the chain into the desired position instead of mandating it. The result of this is a more traditional feeling drivetrain, where backing off the power momentarily yields improvements in shift quality. To try and explain, this is the opposite of SRAM's mountain T-Type drivetrains which practically rewards high-load shifting. I've heard Linkglide is similar, although I have no personal experience with Linkglide.

The system takes slightly longer to wake up than SRAM - Shimano says this is an effort to increase battery life, especially in transport. In practice, a couple of quick clicks as you hop on make this a non-issue.

Shift quality isn't as high as I was expecting, and in an effort to improve it, I've slowed down shift speed in E-Tube, from 'normal' to 'slow'; I can't tell if it's placebo, but I think I'm experiencing crunchy downshifts less often now, although my 3->2 shift is still regularly bad. Upshifting isn't quite as smooth as I'd like, with the occasional ka-CHUNK of yore, as the chain hops down to the smaller cog. I'm hoping that a bit of tuning and tweaking can improve things, and I'm going to continue to play with both the mechanical and electronic ends of the gruppo to see if I can dial everything in.

There's an obvious sacrifice in 1x12; gear resolution. Depending on your use case, this matters or it doesn't. As a general rule, it's only on smooth gravel or tarmac I find myself hunting for gears if I'm solo; if you're regularly in groups it can exacerbate the issue, but this is a choice, and if you want more resolution there are other options.

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Sometimes, gear range is more important than gear resolution. Sections of this climb topped out at 19%, and later on I'd be on the road doing ~60kph.

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I assume the X in GRX is for eXploration - I find the "I could do all that on a mountain bike" arguments tiring, and while there's no argument you can ride everything on a mountain bike, it ignores that there's a better tool for the job sometimes, especially with mixed surfaces. This ride is a good example.

The real story here - perhaps - isn't that Shimano now sells a wireless derailleur that says GRX on it, but that Shimano now has a full ecosystem of wireless components that gravel and all-road riders can pick and choose from to find their ideal setup. It's all backwards compatible as well, enabling folks to use existing cranksets, cassettes, and in some cases retaining brifters, depending on your specific current configuration. There's a huge amount of new and old components that work together now, which is good for those that like to play bicycle LEGO.

If I were assembling a group myself, I'd probably be going with an XT mid-cage derailleur paired with an XT 10-45 cassette; sacrificing a bit of overall gear range for improved gear resolution. If cost is no object, I'll have a spare long cage derailleur and 10-51 cassette for trips that make gear range trump resolution. Alternatively, you could keep the mid-cage derailleur and swap cassettes for the XT 9-45. If you're looking for a lower gear with this arrangement, you'd also need to change front rings (and likely chain). The pauper version is a smaller front ring and spare chain, giving up top-end.

The first option is effectively what I run now as my personal setup, with a 10-46 Force XPLR mated to a 42T front ring most of the time, and a 10-52 XO1 and GX T-type quickly poached off a mountain bike for big, heavy trips. I'm able to do this on the same chain, which is convenient, and the swap takes about 5 minutes.

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I swap my rear derailleur and cassette around depending on what I'm up to at any given time. This is a luxury, and the most cost effective technique is to swap front chainrings. I'll be using this GRX setup on some similar trips this year, once I get a new UDH hanger bolt from Tailfin.

I'd pair these XT bits with an ST-RX825-R brifter for shifting control, and a ST-RX810-LA brifter on the left. While designed for 2x bikes, this component can also control a cable-actuated dropper post, and as Mike discussed yesterday I love having a dropper post on my gravel bike. While both Shimano and Fox are tight-lipped about any future development or compatibility between their wireless components, for consumer's sake I hope they can forge some kind of technology agreement, because my dropper is what I'm missing most at the moment.

For cranks, I'm not sure exactly what I'd do. While I use a 172.5mm length and 42T ring, I'm accustomed to a powermeter and there's no official Shimano way to get that combo, short of aftermarket chainrings on a Dura-ace or Ultegra crankset.

Overall the new GRX brings mullet gravel drivetrains to the Shimanophiles, and once everything was set up, riding this setup has been very similar to the Specialized Diverge I reviewed and raced in the BCBR Gravel Explorer XLT.

Given Shimano's history I don't have any particular longevity concerns, especially with components built for mountain bike abuse. I'm hoping I can tune the shifting to improve a bit, and tame the shifter rattle; I'll be keeping this for long-term review, so stay tuned in for an update in a few months.

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The groad awaits.

cooperquinn
Cooper Quinn

Elder millennial, size medium.

Reformed downhiller, now rides all the bikes.

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Comments

andy-eunson
0

The shift paddles look like a good improvement over the DI2 I had a while back. I found them too small and close together so that shifting with full finger winter-ish gloves led to miss shifts. I know I need mountain bike gearing for most of the trails and roads I ride here. So it’s good to see "XT" gearing.

Reply

cooperquinn
+1 Andy Eunson

The paddles are well placed, big, and the pressure needed to activate the controls is good. The intermittent rattle that happens on some frequencies of gravel/vibration is annoying.

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SixZeroSixOne
0

> I'm accustomed to a powermeter and there's no official Shimano way to get that combo,

Favero Assioma pedals work with everything, every time...😉

Reply

cooperquinn
0

Lots of different ways to get power, for sure. But not from Shimano.

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amschroeder5
0

This is a non-sequitur, but I just want to say that 99.99% of the time (mechanical) engineers care about the fringe cases even more than the best case, and certainly more than anyone else in the company... anytime you have a "great on paper, compromised in reality" that is the push of management/accountants who want the marketed feature over having to do the work and add the potential complexity and longer lead time of the well rounded solution. [See its technically the lowest in one specific situation, so why bother making it generally better. See it has the setting somewhere, who cares if its hard to use.]

With all this being said, shimanos new mtb hubs dumped the cups, and it was interesting a few outlets seemed disappointed by that because they consider them much more reliable and usable in the long term (with minor regular greasing) than sealed bearings. Different strokes for different folks.

Just interesting.

Reply

cooperquinn
0

" I just want to say that 99.99% of the time (mechanical) engineers care about the fringe cases even more than the best case, and certainly more than anyone else in the company"

In this instance, the fringe case is a user that's properly cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting their cup-and-cone hubset. Cup-and-cone bearings are great on paper, and compromised in reality.

I think we're on the same page, it's just an observation that Shimano has prioritized these types of solutions, which speaks to the culture of the company. It's not a bad thing in and of itself, but I'd argue it means some of their products are less user-friendly and ultimately lower performance (eg, poorly adjusted hubs) because of it. 

W.R.T. other outlets being disappointed... sure. There's absolutely two sides to it - well maintained and adjusted cup/cone bearings are very reliable, serviceable, and have great longevity. I get that side of the argument, and there's a place for that product in the market, but it's probably not for the Great Unwashed Masses.

Reply

alexdi
0

The killer feature of cartridge bearings is that you can let them go to pot without destroying the hub. I've had to discard so many hubs with scored inner bearing races and no replacement parts.

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jdespinal
0

I refer to backpacking.com's guide on a monthly basis whenever I am fucking around with my gravel

Reply

cooperquinn
0

They do excellent work.

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