PNW Loam Stem and Range Handlebar
Review

Riding High Rise Bars/PNW's New Handlebars and Stem

Photos Cam McRae (unless noted)
Reading time

The worst element of the rapid changes we've seen in mountain bikes over the last ten years is the increase in obsolescence. Wheel sizes, axle sizes, rear deraileur mount, headset sizes and seatpost insertion lengths are just a few of the changes that have made previously valuable bikes and parts that we own, either much less valuable or practically worthless. I hate waste and I'm not fond of losing money either, and these dramatic changes have contributed to both. Anybody looking for a Chris King PF92 bottom bracket for a 25mm spindle? Hit me up.

With this in mind I am always conflicted when a new trend or technology emerges. I feel like I need to try it, both because of the job I do and because I'm always trying to get better at riding my bike down hill. If it turns out this newness isn't for me, I'm generally a little relieved. If I like it, and feel it's likely to be accepted and/or thrust upon us, I can't help but think of all the waste and devaluation. This isn't as big deal when we are talking about a handlebar with a little more rise but my hackles were up as I installed a new Range Handlebar from PNW Components that was a big departure for me.

PNW Loam Stem and Range Handlebar

For what seems like a long time in MTB years, I've been running bars without much rise, as evidenced by the We Are One DaBar I'm riding above. Photo - Jens Klett

The Dakotah Norton Effect

I'm not sure how it happened or why but after the days of risers with crossbars faded into the past, I began to dislike the look of bars with more than about 25mm of rise. There was a time before, silly in retrospect, when many of us rode bars that were very narrow and straight enough to double as a gun barrel. Why? I have no idea why aside from, everyone else was doing it and we thought they looked cool. To compensate we were riding stems that were 150mm long. I wish that was hyperbole.

Aside from the aesthetics of risers, I have generally been working on putting more weight on the bars because that seems to be the consensus best practice for downhilling well; lengthen your legs and weight your hands, with elbows out of course.

And then Dakotah Norton came along. Dak's results since swapping to 75mm-rise ape hangers have been the best of his career, including a 2nd at Val di Sole and a 4th at Fort William. Obviously that doesn't mean they are for everyone, and Dakotah admits to having "crocodile arms," but it seems to suggest they may be for some of us.

dakotah norton val di sole Bartek Wolinski Red Bull Content Pool

These look like tall bars but not ridiculously so. Dakotah Norton's 75mm Mondraker ON/OFF risers (Mondraker's house brand which don't seem to be available to consumers in more than 38mm rise), shown at Val Di Sole 2024, sometimes look very foreign but in other shots less so. Photos - Bartek Wolinski Red Bull Content Pool

dakotah norton val di sole Bartek Wolinski Red Bull Content Pool

In this shot Dakotah just looks like he's riding a moto with a relatively upright torso. The take home is that these seem to be one of the factors that helped him go faster against the fastest in the world in 2024.

With this in mind, when Aaron Kerson of PNW components asked me what rise I wanted for a set of yet-to-be-released test bars, I was almost all in.* Instead of asking for a set of 50s I opted for 38s. When I opened the package, for some reason I was sent a 50mm and I was glad, thinking it made more sense to go deep.

*But maybe not all in, like Bronson Moore's Reverse Rise stem, at least not yet. And actually Bronson now offers RR lite, with "only" a 90mm rise.

bronson moore by cherry magnums.jpg

Is this where we are going? I have no idea, and I tend to root for the little guy, but part of me of hopes not. Photo - Deniz Merdano

I wouldn't say I am T-Rex, but my arms are not long for my height. My ape index is .986, meaning my wingspan is slightly less than my height and most of my height is in my legs. Like Dakotah, I appreciate longer bikes for their stability and the space they give you to move around in the cockpit. I have compensated for my lack of personal reach by cutting my bars down to between 750 and 770mm on bikes that are in my bike reach window of 480-500mm. The element I haven't compensated for universally is stack.

My We Are One Arrival has a 100mm head tube in the XL which is quite short, likely because the bike is designed to be run at three different travels; 130, 152 and 170. I used a 25mm spacer under my stem to compensate, and let's not pretend that looks great either. It didn't feel bad like that and I was pretty sure that it matched well with a low rise bar. That is until I rode it with the 50mm PNW bar.

PNW Loam Stem and Range Handlebar

To my eyes, while giving off a minor moto vibe, these aren't bad looking at all.

I have been working with a new shock on my We Are One Arrival and I've converted it to a mullet with the Kamloops company's UDH swingarm. It turns out these are not insignificant changes for a small-brained bike tester to sort out. I'd recently gone down to a 375 lb spring to achieve the suggested 30% sag, after struggling a little to get the bike to feel the way I wanted. I failed the sag test, perhaps because the spring is from another manufacturer, but on the trail the suspension felt pretty good. Overall though, I had one of my best rides ever on the Arrival, and something felt very different indeed.

Riding lately has been a dance of waiting long enough after a storm so the trails aren't too sensitive and getting out before the next one hits, so it was slippery and in many places the ground was sodden. Less than ideal to say the least but I found myself riding very well and with unexpected confidence. I felt quite relaxed in situations that normally elicit tension and fear.

PNW Loam Stem and Range Handlebar

I'm a fan of the burnt orange anodizing on PNW's Loam Stem. I chose a 32mm vs. a 40mm length.

Body Position

After some research and coaching, when I moved my stance forward with my legs more extended, one of the surprising advantages was how I saw the trail. The perspective you get when your eyes are closer to the front of the bike is both more accurate and informative and less terrifying in steep and/or very technical situations. That body position certainly helps when you are riding at speed but I'm not sure there is as much visual advantage when you are looking farther ahead.

As beginners in sports, when we are most nervous and least skilled, we tend to try and keep our heads safe. It's why noob skiers are on their heels with their hands out to the sides (I'm not sure why their jackets are open) and why it's hard to get new mountain bikers to stand up on the pedals while descending. While we feel safer, we are sacrificing control and vision. If you hope to progress, both sports require an aggressive posture that our reptile brains resist.

For me, the 50mm rise bars seem to improve both my vision in my neutral stance and the comfort I feel keeping my head forward in steep situations. It also feels better pulling up and reaching for a gap and controlling the front end at low speed. Cornering seems to be unaffected but I am also more comfortable riding at speed, although I'm certain there are compromises, I have yet to discover them. I haven't yet done any technical climbing where weight over the front end is essential however.

PNW Loam Stem

When a stem is done right there isn't much to say. This one looks good, comes in the appropriate sizes for the riding I do, and the machining seems to be solid. When I first installed the stem, I was thinking to myself, "why doesn't the logo on the handlebar line up with the gap in the clamp? Man, that is uncharacteristically sloppy! Now I have something to talk about that I'd rather not talk about!" It wasn't until I looked at the photo afterward, and noticed that the logo on the face plate was upside down, that I realized the oversight, unsurprisingly, was mine. Not the first time, and likely not the last. Thankfully I'm not producing your stems.

PNW loam stem colours

Not pictured, black. I'm not sure why. I love the blood orange though.

Van Halen and Brown M&Ms

Everything seems solidly done but you might want to ask for a little more machining perfection from a stem considering the importance of the job it does. It reminds me of Van Halen and how they determined whether a venue was up to the task of hosting their stage production that was, at the time, the most elaborate in the world (at least according to David Lee Roth).

By stipulating in their contract that if there were any brown M&Ms present in the bowls of the candy they asked for back stage, the promoters would forfeit their entire fee. You can imagine that members of an incredibly popular 1980s hair band created new high water marks for indulgence and entitlement, but they also had a carefully choreographed stage performance with pyrotechnics, massive lights and even aerial rigging so the performers could fly above the stage. All of those elements relied upon careful preparation by the promoters. If there were brown M&Ms, the band would trash the dressing room, but they'd also instruct their crew to check everything to make sure they could safely execute their show because they knew the promoter hadn't read the contract.

PNW loam stem

The second time I installed the stem (after first putting it on upside down) this was how the faceplate aligned. It's not bad, but it's not perfect either. Am I fussy? Of course I am. It comes with the job.

PNW Loam Stem and Range Handlebar 166

Being more careful about lining things up the second time produced a more closely aligned result. Not perfect but very close. Does this matter at all? You'll have to ask David Lee Roth but for me this passes the candy test.

Having the lines of the face plate line up so perfectly with the stem body that it appears to be one piece when clamped, likely has virtually not impact on the integrity of the stem, but it lets you know how uncompromising the engineers and machinists were about the finished product.

The alignment here was pretty good but when I eventually installed the stem the right way up, one side was well aligned and the other side was not. The misalignment was miniscule but noticeable and I wasn't sure if I could correct it with a more careful placement before tightening things up. Actually it was easy and I managed to get it so the tiny overlap, only measured in microns, was spread over both sides and almost indistinguishable. This is not a deal breaker for me, but I'd prefer a product like this to surprise me the elegance of its fit and finish the first time. At the same time, many CNC'ed stems that look this good and have this much attention to detail, cost a little more and everything else looked perfect which means the Loam Stem passes the candy test. I am more than happy having this nicely machined piece hold up my bars, (and clamp my dreams).

PNW Loam Stem and Range Handlebar

I thought I was getting 38mm risers but 50s arrived, and I couldn't be happier.

range handlebar specs PNW

Bar weight is no longer something I pay much attention to unless it appears to be too light.

PNW Range Gen. 4 Handlebar (25, 38 and 50mm rises)

These are interesting bars. They have more backsweep than most at 10º, are made from 2014 aluminum, come in 25, 38 or 50mm rises and have a 31.8mm clamp diameter. This is my favourite kind of time warp. It's not impossible to make 35mm diameter bars that feel good but it's a little more difficult. With their recent carbon handlebar release PNW engineered the bars in both diameter sizes but with the goal of having them feel the same. I can't tell you if that was successful but I applaud the effort. And if the feel of these bars is anything to go on, I would approve.

PNW didn't choose 2014 aluminum for the Gen. 4 Range bar because it was a good year. 2014 refers to the alloy which includes small amounts of chromium, copper, iron, manganese, magnesium, silicon, titanium, titanium alloyed with zinc and zinc on its own. Only copper is present at more than a sidgen at 3.9% but apparently all of those other minerals add characteristics that are useful in aerospace and in handlebars. PNW says 2014 was chosen because it closely replicates "carbon's chatter absorbing qualities in a more cost-conscious and durable package." I can't say much about the durability but the bar felt really good both in terms of absorbing big shocks and smaller repetitive impacts without ever feeling like a noodle.

PNW loam Al handlebar specs

Another feature of these handlebars is a decent price of 69 USD.

PNW_RangeGen4Handlebar_Rise

Our cockpit is a place where we have a lot of leverage, literally and figuratively. Changing cranks or frames or wheel sizes are more involved and pricy endeavours that may produce results that are less conclusive. So much is happening in the interface of our hands and our bikes that little changes can make significant differences, either in stem length or some handlebar metric whether it's backsweep, upsweep or, perhaps most significantly, rise. You can of course play with this in a smaller way by rolling your bars forward and back and seeing how that changes the way your bike feels. When you are ready to give something a try, it also makes sense to look for something used and on the cheap as a trial run. With so many early adopters around, in many places it's easy to find used deals on products you are curious about but aren't ready to pay retail for.

After just a few rides I'm considering putting more significant risers on ever bike I ride or test. Probably not 75mm, and likely not 90 anytime soon, but 50 seems great. Of course maybe it will end like my experience with dropper posts. I was completely happy with 125mm of drop, until I tried 150. That continued until I reached 220mm where I have reached my limit. For now at least.

Keep tinkering I say!

PNW Components Loam Stem and Gen. 4 Range Handlebar

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Comments

xy9ine
+7 Cam McRae Jotegir Andy Eunson fartymarty Velocipedestrian BarryW Jeremy Hiebert

i've been messing with a 50mm riser for a while. definitely think there's something to moving the weight bias off the hands towards the feet a bit more (inspired by the more upright body positions of rippers like dak & jackson). certainly less fatiguing in the upper body, more chill on the super steeps, and as you mention, vision is opened up a little.  

of course, shifting weight rearward has an impact on front wheel weighting / cornering, so raising bar heights / stack may benefit from shorter reach and/or stretching the r/c a bit (or just getting more aggressive with cornering inputs). i found bumping the stem length up balanced things decently (my bike has a relatively short rc).

anyways, low cost fun to play around with chassis dynamics / body position.

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Jotegir
+2 Kenny Andy Eunson

Like you pointed out, part of the  "more rise and more stack is more better" camp is that rear ends and wheelbases are getting longer; it isn't in a vacuum. It's a bit hard to wrap my head around though, as you'd think these bikes would benefit from a more centered body position but they thrive when, despite their higher stack heights, you consciously push over the front. Not that older style geo bikes didn't benefit too, but they took less of a deliberate effort in my experience.

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BarryW
0

My bike doesn't have a long rear at only 430 but I've been on team tall bars and spacers for a few years and I'm loving it.

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rolly
+1 Cam McRae

When I went to a higher rise bar it echoed very much the same experience as Cam's (confidence, comfort, etc). I did, however, adjust my fork settings a bit as well, which Cam didn't appear to do.

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cam@nsmb.com
0

I didn’t before riding the bar and it seemed fine. I assume you lowered pressure some? I was still able to get into the meat of the travel with my original settings and the 50mm bar but maybe my pressure was a little low?

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handsomedan
+6 Konrad roil Andy Eunson Cr4w LemonadeMoney canterbury

Short stack on xl and l bikes is the worst.

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fartymarty
+5 ohio BarryW LemonadeMoney roil Jeremy Hiebert

I'm running 70mm Ergotecs with 12 degree backsweep and 20mm of spacers and wouldn't go lower.  It takes a little getting used to but worth it especially on the steeps.

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LemonadeMoney
0

Same, and SQlab 12 deg bars too. When you put all the spacers you can, a 5 deg rise stem, and the highest rise bar you can find, on all your bikes, you know headtubes should be longer. Are any riders really slamming their negative rise stems as low as possible, with flat bars, to get a comfy position?

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Jotegir
0

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craw
+3 Cam McRae ohio cxfahrer

I can totally see why this would work for someone with short arms on a bike with a very short head tube. It makes sense that there be more options.

As someone with long arms on bikes with very long head tubes I'll continue to bury my stems and enjoy my 15mm rise bars. This has only recently become possible as some brands started actually making bigger bikes with longer head tubes, We Are One and Chromag being the notable exceptions.

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cam@nsmb.com
+2 bushtrucker rolly

The devil's advocate in me wants to know if you have tried one. Obviously fit is important and your size makes that a big challenge, but maybe your riding could still benefit? Maybe it's not just about arm and torso length? There are so many counterintuitive elements of riding modern bikes that I think it is worth questioning almost everything. I used to resist change but I've had so many revelations by trying something I was sure I wouldn't like that I'm over it completely. I used to have my brake levers angled down aggressively because I thought it put me in more of an attack position. Rotating them back up had an almost immediate benefit and I haven't looked back. 

Many of us used to descend with out-stretched arms and our asses way out back behind the saddle FFS. Sure it had something to do with geometry but that technique didn't actually help. It seemed to make sense but it really just made an endo less likely and it felt safer. 

I finally figured out how to ride a 29er when I rode a Trek Remedy with uncut 820mm bars. It forced me up front and suddenly everything clicked. I cut them after that and began learning to get my weight up front but that mistake was a great shortcut.

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LoamtoHome
+1 BarryW

A higher stack height helps with control and stability, especially when bombing down steep descents. It puts you in a more upright position, shifting your weight back and making the bike feel more balanced and secure. Plus, if you’re into a more relaxed, trail-riding style, it adds confidence and comfort for tackling technical sections. The more balanced posture also helps distribute weight effectively, which can lead to better cornering and overall stability.

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craw
+2 cxfahrer Dude@

Of course. I try all the permutations I can then follow the positive results.

That's where I started. My previous bikes had short head tubes and so I had taller bars to match so when I built up my new frames with taller head tubes I ran what I had (no point buying new stuff until I tried what I have). They didn't ride well, put me too tall, too far back and it was hard to maintain good front wheel pressure when climbing or stay in a good attack position when descending.

I tried lower bars (good), then shorter stems (better) then dropped the stem to the lowest position (better yet). Now I'm on zero spacers and the lowest bar I could find short of a flat bar and it's amazing (for me on this bike in this particular place). Obviously results may vary.

I have a 1.07 ape index. I'm not overly stretched out on my bikes at all. I'm in proper attack position all day. I'm not an on-the-heels over the back wheel rider.

I also tried rotating brake levers. I run them way flatter than I used to.

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BarryW
0

Very much a fan of flatter brake levers. But I'm sticking to my tall bars plus spacers!

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Kenny
+1 Cr4w

I think it somewhat depends on overall bike fit as well. If I recall, you are a tall dude, so not likely you are ending up on bikes that are too big for you. 

A long reach pulls the rider forward, until you're sorta "stuck" forward, and it's amplified when riding downhill on steep terrain, you become so stretched forwards that moving your weight backward when necessary is really tough. Here's a test: when standing, how easily can you get your knees stacked over your toes/arches? A lot of people are on bikes that are too big now and their knees are ahead of their feet when descending (bad juju). 

Higher bars help you stand a chance at a making a rearward weight shift and therefore feel really good.

I was fully on the super tall handle bar team until I started sizing down, now I am finding I don't need such extreme rise.  Don't get me wrong there's plenty of bike where stack has not increased appropriately with reach (or chainstay length for that matter) but I think it's also worth just taking a step back and thinking "why do I need a +30mm or more shift from the bar position as it was designed? Are my proportions really that funky, or am I possibly compensating for something else that is sub optimal?) . 

Not staying higher bars aren't or can't be great. But the whole thing is a system.

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craw
+5 Kenny Jotegir Andy Eunson Velocipedestrian Geof Harries

That's kind of my point. There's lots of options and people should figure out what works. I used to love getting new bikes and now I kind of hate it because it puts me back at the beginning of that process which can take months of experimenting with bars and stems to figure it out. That process usually starts with raising/lowering the stem on the steerer to get a sense of which direction to explore then trying stuff out with the bars and stems I have on hand.

As bikes get longer and size-specific proportionality doesn't always keep pace it makes sense people resort to unusual bars and stems to get the right position. It's just that for many year bikes were very little and it was the long people who had to make weird compromises. Now that bikes are finally very long it's the normals who have to resort to lots of stem spacers and taller bars: enjoy your time here, it's not great.

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Jotegir
+2 Morgan Heater BarryW

New bike day is terrible!

- Cr4w

DogVet
+1 BarryW

I think riding flats v clips can also affect riding position and stance on the bike.

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fartymarty
+1 BarryW

100% - flats you have to be further back than clips.

And I would agree new bike day is terrible - so much faffing to do.   There's nothing quite like a bike that works and you know you've got it set up.

danimaniac
0

> I also tried rotating brake levers. I run them way flatter than I used to.

Yeah..... in that camp, too

Flattening the brake levers elevated my axis of vision, lowered and relaxed my shoulders and helped with some pain in the palm of my hands.

I also had to rotate the (Ergon) grips though not as much as the levers.

What I found with 10° backsweep against 8° that I wanted to run a 5mm longer stem.

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roil
+3 bushtrucker Velocipedestrian BarryW Morgan Heater HughJass cxfahrer Cr4w

Everyone here can agree that it would be crazy if every bike had the same saddle height regardless of the rider's size yet most riders run very similar bar heights regardless of their size on the bike. 

I've got long arms and am running 83mm rise bars. IMO, your bars should be roughly as high as your seat at full extension on a trail/enduro bike.

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xy9ine
+5 ohio Jotegir roil BarryW Andy Eunson

i'm pretty sure smol people are ahead of the curve re: avant garde setup. (relatively) tall front ends & rc's balancing reach. looking at goldstone's fit - similar bar height to most pro's, but ~ half a foot shorter - he looks so comfortable in his more upright stance. centered, driving with the feet; very dynamic & balanced. dak has specifically talked about trying to emulate this type of body positioning; something in this, methinks.

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syncro
+5 Jotegir DadStillRides BarryW Cr4w danimaniac

Smol people are the worst.

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roil
+2 BarryW dano91

Smol riders 100% benefit from this and don't even realize it. A shorter friend who gave me the hardest time about my "ridiculous" bar height, finally shut up when I pointed out that his bars were already the same height as his seat and I just wanted a similar riding position.

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andy-eunson
0

Smol riders like me don’t have other options as our stems fully dropped with a low rise bar are going to be close to seat height. But you shouldn’t emulate my seat to bar drop.  Looks is not a reason to alter fit. Function is. We should look at body position not bar position when determining fit.

Plus, we have to ride up to go down so we compromise fit between climbing and descending. If ones climb is a mellow putz versus a hard technical climb you’ll want a different compromise.

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syncro
+1 Andy Eunson

It would be kind of a cool experiment to have two very different set-ups of the same bike to compare how they ride. One setup would be all about aesthetics, from hidden cables to integrated bar/stem combos and colours all matchy-matchy. The other bike wouldn't give a toss about any of that and be set up for perfect  ergos, and maybe even look weird. They ride them both and finish up at the dumpsters to see what people think. I wonder how many people would opt for the optimized ride or the one that gets all the kudos because it looks so damn awesome?

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Kenny
+4 Mark BarryW Andy Eunson Jeremy Hiebert

The tricky part is psychology does matter as well - the sweet looking ride and compliments might be more confidence inspiring, and the optimized cockpit may look visually strange and as such the person may ride better on the "cool" bike, despite some setup imperfections.

For me it's important my bike is nearly dead silent - a squeak or rattle that does not actually impact how the bike functions impacts my riding profoundly, even if I rationally know what the noise is and that it's not dangerous. Aesthetics play a smaller, but not zero, role.

syncro
+1 BarryW

@Kenny - that's a big part of why I think  this would be such a cool experiment to run.

roil
+1 BarryW

I raised my bars through trial and error. It wasn't about aesthetics. Trust me, my friends roast the look of my bike every chance they get. 

My point about smaller riders and bike geo is that the default riding position for smaller riders is better because of how bike geo doesn't scale properly with sizing. Consider yourself lucky that your bars aren't 3 inches lower than they currently are on your bike. You're welcome to buy a some high rise bars and run them inverted if you want to see what you're not missing. 

And from my experience with different bikes and bar heights when climbing, seat tube angle is more important than bar height, unless we're talking serious out of saddle technical climbing.

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BarryW
0

This ^ so much this.

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craw
+5 Jotegir ohio Velocipedestrian roil Andy Eunson

Now that bigger bikes are coming with longer head tubes it's a nice privilege to finally have most of my positioning done by the frame. I'm using normal bars and stems for the first time ever. For the last 30 years I've been on goofy bars and stems with a ton of spacers below. I feel like if the frame fits right the adjustments to stem length, bar height/rise/sweep/width and seat position fore/aft shouldn't need to be very radical as the frame dimensions should be doing most of the work.

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xy9ine
+1 roil

agreed. good to finally see some companies grow head tubes in larger sizes. santa cruz is definitely on the right track.

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morgan-heater
+1 roil

Twinsies.

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roil
0

Well done

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morgan-heater
+3 BarryW Jeremy Hiebert AndrewR

I've been running 80mm rise for a couple of years now, and this summer suddenly everyone says, "have you heard of Dak? He rides bars like that." People walking by my bike on the rack lift their hands up in the universal chopper ape-hanger symbol. They don't even notice I'm running a gearbox belt driven bike. Makes me laugh.

High rise bars make bar roll have an outsized impact on steering geometry. If you don't have them parallel to the steering axis on a slack bike, they basically emulate a longer or shorter stem. It's actually kind of nice because you have a lot of room to tweak things without buying new components. Especially when you combine it with adjusting spacers.

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cheapondirt
+2 roil bushtrucker

My experience switching to higher bars (a couple years ago now) was similar. General improvement and no noticeable downsides. With most of my riding friends also raising their bars, I no longer consider 50mm to be 'high rise' - instead I think everything less is 'probably too low for most people in my area.'

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BarryW
+2 Andy Eunson Cam McRae

Way to go Cam! 

I've been running 50mm ride bars for a few years and find zero negatives and several positives as you noted. 

And I'll disagree on the looks opinion. I don't see bars as a beauty thing, that's frames and other components. To me bars and spacers under a stem are fit points, AND terrain tuning devices. On that front I'm running my bike 20mm over forked, and maximum allowed spacers under said 50mm bars and it felt amazing in the bike park this summer. And funny enough it feels just as good riding mellow stuff locally. 

I'm more comfortable, able to weight my bars more confidently and no perceptible downsides. 

Welcome to the club!

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andy-eunson
+1 BarryW

It doesn’t matter what a bar or stem with spacers under it looks like. It’s how it fits and works for the rider that counts. Different rises look different. Not better or worse. I change rises and stem length all the time. I have bars from 25 mm to 150 rise. Stems from 32 to 50 length. Hell I even have some long stems to go with all those now useless front derailleurs I have for no reason. 

I’m only 164 tall but my wingspan is 167 (I remeasured last night) or so. Higher bars do encourage me to look ahead a bit more which is something I’m not good at. But weighting the front has been something I’ve done since I went for longer bikes with shorter stems. Kind of like pushing on the shins of ski boots do quicker turns. 

Personally I can’t feel a difference in bar compliance between all the bars I’ve tried. I’m on a PNW 30mm rise 31.8 clamp with Chromag 32mm stem. One 5mm spacer underneath. I had the FU40 in there for a week before but found it too high. Feels odd when I stand to climb up my 20% driveway. That places the grips about 2cm higher than my seat.

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cxfahrer
+1 Andy Eunson

Riser bars are no fix for bikes that are too small, because they make no sense when the reach and effective top tube are already too short. I tried that in the early days with a Syntace VRO "riser" stem and a riser bar. No control in any situation with a 440 reach where it should be around 530 for me nowadays. At least  (6'7").

I would try a riser bar again when I will have a new bike that has over 530 reach and long chainstays. But I guess with approximately 1400 wheelbase it will make no sense on those local or Czech enduro trails that are built by riders with short smaller wheeled bikes...

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dano91
+1 roil

Normalize proportional stack and longer head tubes in the bigger sizes. Also brands need to stop cutting steerer tubes too short on new bikes.

I’ve ran 50mm bars before trying to fix these problems, but it also means losing effective reach which is a dealbreaker for me. I sold my Jekyll because of these issues. 

Santa Cruz is doing this right IMO along with a very small number of other brands.

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flattire2
+1 Andy Eunson

So many variables to how high you want your bars.  

Fork travel, headtube length, YOUR HEIGHT is a huge one, 

A  5'-5" rider a long travel 29er VS a 6'2" dude on a 120mm trail bike will have vastly different needs

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SixZeroSixOne
0

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, of course, but high rise bars look dorky to me...

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cam@nsmb.com
+2 bushtrucker Jotegir

That’s exactly where I started out. I’m not sure how my perspective changed but here we are.

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Jotegir
0

There's nothing dorkier than a perfectly flat bar on a flat or negative rise stem. Close to how Cam looks in the second photo! (kidding, kidding).

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cam@nsmb.com
+1 Jotegir

Ha!

I can't disagree! Just don't go after my dog!

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craw
0

I think they look goofy as hell but that wouldn't stop me from riding them if they were the solution that worked best.

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xy9ine
+5 HughJass LemonadeMoney Velocipedestrian Cam McRae Jeremy Hiebert

i'll admit to being similarly aesthetically critical. the title 50mm risers that i'm running have a more gradual upslope & are less jarring to my delicate sensibilities (plus come in polished):

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jeremyok
0

Those look so badass.

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XXX_er
0

So Assuming there is room on the fork steerer post, I'm not understanding how it would be any different stacking spacers under the ahedset  to get more rise from my old bar than buying a bar with more rise

Wouldn't those grips end up at the same place in the troposphere ?

so far I been happy with whatever Yeti and SC speced,

i did try 3 bars just putting them in the stem and sitting on the bike 

but i couldn't tell the difference and took them back to the LBS

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danimaniac
0

No.

Assuming it's the same bar and sweeps and all and you only raise the rise you'll lift the grips with a higher rise whereas shifting the same bar up on the 65° steerer reduces the effective reach on top of lifting the bar

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HollyBoni
0

Since the head tube angle is not 90 degrees, you're not just moving the bars upwards with stem spacers, but a bit backwards as well. You can compensate with a longer stem of course.

Steerer tubes are not an infinite length either, it's pretty easy to run out of room. Most new bikes come with 25-30mm of spacers at best. Sometimes that's not enough.

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BarryW
-1 HollyBoni

People always point this out, but never point out how that higher stack height is either doing the same or it's also a longer bike. 

But a longer stem is a way to tune this.

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Yoondaman
0

I have the 780mm-wide KW version with a 30mm rise. I swear that the PNW Range handlebar with the 2014 alloy provides better vibration damping and possibly "flex" than the world-renowned OneUp carbon handlebar. I look forward to trying the 50mm rise version when it becomes available.

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