greenroom
Beggars Would Ride

Notes From The Green Room

Reading time

The Aspen were singing quietly today up in the green room. The hour and change of grind from town was behind me, and I was floating along a rolling line of trail that did a good job of giving back some fun rhythm in exchange for the climbing punches it lobbed. Everything seemed so quiet - the scrub of my tires on the dirt, chain and drivetrain mercifully smooth, my own breathing finally contained, and even the wind pushing through the leaves seemed to be muffled. It felt like a gentle velvety swaddling. Tranquil. Calming. Since I wasn’t on any schedule, I slowed down and pulled over in a dappled wide spot and sat there for a while.

This is the time of year when the Western Trembling Aspen is running its photosynthetic engine full gas. The leaves are bright green, soft as cloth to the touch, incredibly pliable. The reason the Aspen leaves Tremble, apparently, is a matter of aerodynamics; they are hinged upon stalks longer than themselves, and that stalk is flattened perpendicular to the blade, thus acting as a pivot. So, when the wind blows, even gently, the Aspen Trembles. Today may have been the first time that I recognized the sound of the wind through the Aspen can vary with the season.

Right now, those leaves are jampacked with chlorophyll. Green and soft, they channel the wind pushing through them into a soothing murmur. In a couple months, their work will be done and they will be starting to turn yellow, carpeting the mountain flanks below timberline with a mesmerizing gold that is the level best autumnal leaf peeping show that can be found on this side of the continent. Those yellow leaves are dead, brittle like parchment, and after the first good storms of the fall, they will carpet the trail with a different kind of textural silence. But while they are still hanging in the breeze the sound they make as the wind blows holds an entirely different timbre than these green leaves. Realizing this for the first time, I sat back against a pale and scarred trunk and listened to the song some more.

singtome

"In the Rockies, it grows in the very spots most sought by the vacationing camper - in the high, dry, cool places, commonly close to clean, rushing water. It is apt to form open, sunny groves, where the snow or the night damps and chill do not linger, and the breeze sweeps away the insects. Sweet, dry grass carpets the floors of these groves, flecked with the blue of lupine and wild flax, of larkspur, columbine, and monkshood. Where the deer bound, where the trout rise, where your horse stops to slather a drink from icy water while the sun is warm on your neck, where every breath you draw is in exhiliration - that is where the Aspens grow." ~ Donald Culross Peattie: A Natural History Of Western Trees.

Fun facts about Aspen: It is capable of reproducing by borne seed as well as by cloning via its roots, producing suckers that grow into full trees. This lends an incredible level of survivability and opportunism to the species. It can survive fire better than conifers and can reproduce faster in fire damaged soil. It’s not a desirable wood for the timber industry – soft, smallish, burns too fast at too low a temperature to even be decent firewood – so it has survived the commodification of natural timberland which decimated the spectacular forests that used to clothe this continent. But the cloning, that’s where the magic is. While an individual Aspen may only live 150 or so years if it’s lucky, a grove of Aspen can be thousands of years old. Tens of thousands, even. The Pando clone in Utah’s Fishlake National Forest covers 106 acres, is guessed to be anywhere from 16,000 to 80,000 years old, and collectively weighs 6000 tonnes, making it the largest organism by mass on the planet.

(Fun unrelated fact about massive organisms, thanks to Wikipedia fact checking: There’s a clonal colony of Posidonia Oceania – seagrass – just south of Ibiza that is estimated to be around 100,000 years old! And a clonal colony of Posidonia Australis in Australia that is 180km long, covering an area of 200 square kilometers! There’s also a fungus in eastern Oregon that weighs maybe 35,000 tons, so about triple the size of Pando once the ton/tonne conversion is done, but it’s not clear whether it is a single organism or a colony. Nature is so fucking cool!)

The more I learn about Aspen over the years, from the first time I read Basque initials carved in their trunks somewhere above Carson City in the late 1980s all the way to now, living just down the hill from an entire mountainside of it, my sense of wonder about this species just continues to grow. For as long as I have been riding bikes, I have placed the gentle act of riding singletrack through Aspen groves on a pedestal. There is some irony in this, given the compromises involved.

Usually, some substantial climbing is required until one gets up into the Aspen. In the western United States, especially in the mountain states, Aspen really comes into its own at around 9000’ above sea level. So unless you live in Aspen, the town, you are likely to have to pay some climbing dues. But then, if you do live in Aspen, the town, there’s an entirely different sort of dues paying required to get up into the green and gold goodness from that well-heeled zip code. I digress. If you want to get the Aspen goods, there will be climbing involved. Maybe a lot of it. And if you want to get those goods, you’ve got a pretty short window to get them. Given the preferred climate for survival, those beautiful leaves will be gone by sometime in October, leaving ghostly sticks standing bare and deepening snow carpeting the ground until May, or June, maybe July. Four months, more or less.

pando

Pando: 40,000 trees, one organism. I had this whole side thing scribbled out about how we, as a species, get all hung up on this ego-id indivual consciousness stuff. How it shapes so much of our social and cultural dialog. But really, when it comes down to it, we are nowhere near as ruggedly individual as we like to think we are. We are all expressions of a common organism; minor tweaks in the double helix differentiate us as individuals but the vast majority of the information in that double helix is a mystery to us. By that same token, those tiny differentiations at the tip of the DNA iceberg that spell out all our so-called individuality are only infinitesimally divergent from the DNA of our buddy Pando here. But then I figured riffing on that would go over about as well as talking politics, so I choked it back.

Meanwhile, from a modern, fully evolved mountain biking perspective, there’s a good chance that once you get up there without getting snowed on, singletrack surfing in the Aspen isn’t going to be the kind of envelope pushing, boundary testing, shredfest that some of us crave.

Which, I am increasingly realizing now that I live just one grueling climb away from some spectacular specimens, is fine by me. Even way back when I was more invested in stretching my skillset, there was something tranquil and mesmerizing about slipping into a rhythm on a buffed smooth but very narrow sliver of dirt weaving between those slender silvery trunks. Something almost holy. My sampling of trails through the populus tremuloides has been pulled from Colorado, Utah, Nevada, California, Idaho, Montana, and Arizona. I have not encountered anything that is textbook RAD in all that sampling, but I have consistently ridden into a state of awe and reverence.

It was so peaceful up there today. I know, calling it the green room is a bit cliché and likely to earn the scorn of surfers. I don’t want to blow too much smoke up its ass and call it the Green cathedral, though. No need to get pretentious here. But man, I felt like I was nestled in the bosom of creation for a good long time there. It felt so peaceful and sweet that I began to nod off to the whispered lullaby.

Then a horsefly bit my shoulder right through my shirt. So much for the poetic wisdom of Donald Culross Peattie. I saddled up and rode home. It wasn’t rad, but it was awesome.

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Comments

OLDF150
+10 Pete Roggeman Mike Ferrentino taprider Adrian White Mike Kittmer Merwinn HughJass Lynx . Cam McRae Spencer Nelson

We truly are,"just along for the ride".  The older I get, the more the riding is about my surroundings, and less about how rad I can try and be.  Thank you Mike.

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MikeDKittmer
0

100% Kerry Williams.

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cam@nsmb.com
+2 Mike Ferrentino Spencer Nelson

I may be in the minority, and I'm not sure how to explain it, but my enjoyment of both of those elements has been growing in parallel. Maybe not so much "how rad I can try and be," but I still get a massive charge from learning new things, riding moves I haven't been able to previously, and trying to get smoother and faster. 

When I was younger, my efforts to get gnarly may have gotten in the way of my appreciation of the natural world. Happily that is no longer the case. Thanks for the reminder to pay attention Mike! Your knowledge of flora inspires me to learn more about the trees, bushes and fungi that surround us in the woods.

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Lynx
+4 Mike Ferrentino BarryW sfellers Merwinn

Hahaha, good one Mike and absolutely you can call it an outdoors persons cathedral, that is what all that is to me, a real celebration of this planet.

Started reading and was all set to get in my $0.02 in the comments and ask who knew that Aspen were the single biggest living organism, but you did your homework, so ;-)

As to having to pay a high price with a climb to get to them, as you said, not if you start at 9k ft, that's why I loved visiting Crested Butte, you can almost start right away into them and it's the most peaceful climbing. Still sit mesmerised by my pics from the last fall visit and I'll once again post my fav from the bar pic from that trip. Don't know when, if ever, I'll get back to that beautiful place, but I sure do think about it a lot.

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DaveSmith
+3 Pete Roggeman Blofeld Mark

This but without the sweat equity. It has the same affect on my nervous system.

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kfowler100
+3 Mike Ferrentino taprider Blofeld

So good!  Thank you!

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earleb
+2 Andy Eunson Lynx .

I used to really really want to go ride CO. I leafed through the old Bike mag Colorado issues many many times. Now I have absolutely no f%*king desire to cross border into the US. Maybe in 4 years things will turn around, or it will just be deeper into civil war. 

We have trembling aspens here in BC and Alberta, anyone have a ride list of good trails to see em? West side of the Rockies should have some options.

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mikeferrentino
0

You have SO MUCH Aspen north of the border!

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steven-kovalenko
+2 Mike Ferrentino Coiler

Believe it or not... the trails in the cities of Edmonton and Calgary, and in the foothills in-between the city and the Rockies are where I would ride for aspen peeping. Having grown up riding in Edmonton, the regional is the heart of aspen parkland and can be spectacular in the fall. Calgary has some big pockets of them, too, in the major inner city riding areas, as well as the foothills before the mountains proper (West Bragg, Moose Mountain). Peak aspen season lasts about 2 weeks in the fall and is honestly the best time of year to ride locally. Paskapoo (in Calgary) turns into an amazing "yellow room" during an all too short window in the fall.

Elk Island National Park would be another great example of the aspen parkland landscape, but it's not really a riding destination.

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embadude
+1 Spencer Nelson

Yes to Edmonton. Our trails have some spectacular aspen groves, especially in fall. Another great spot to , worth a 45 drive to find them is theBlackfoot/Cooking Lake recreation area.  Its mostly double track, so a great gravel bike ride, but early Oct with a blue sky can be incredible

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SteveR
+1 Mike Ferrentino

What Steven K. said. In the green room at Paskapoo Slopes, Calgary. 

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syncro
+2 Mike Ferrentino tmoore

This is what is so awesome about trail building. You can be totally immersed in nature, essentially becoming one with it. As much as I like to speak about the importance of getting involved with your local trail org for the health of the trail network,  it's real value is on your own psyche. You'll develop a far greater appreciation for the trail and mother earth, especially when you take that time to slow down and be in the experience.

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Coiler
+2 LWK Mike Ferrentino

Fun story: Tent caterpillars live in the same ecosystem as trembling aspen, and go through cyclic outbreaks usually every ten years or so. Tent caterpillars eat deciduous leaves; they crawl on the forest floor, find a vertical surface, and climb it to get to the leaves. Not a super big deal, as the trees are usually able to regrow necessary leaves once the outbreak ends.

I was doing some forestry work in Northern Alberta during one of these outbreaks, where trembling aspen is very very common, so tons of food for these caterpillars. It was absolutely mental. The forest was absolutely covered in caterpillars, to the point where it actually was affecting our ability to work. You'd have to stop every 20min or so to pull all the caterpillars off your pants, you couldn't stop or they'd cover your legs. We were running chainsaws and there were so many they would gum up the saws. Driving on the roads at time felt like driving on ice because there were so many smushed caterpillars. It was June and the forests in some places looked like mid-winter they were so defoliated. It was nuts!

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LWK
+2 Mike Ferrentino Coiler

When was this?  I grew up in Northern Alberta and there were a few years of Tent Caterpillar outbreaks maybe 40y ago now as you describe.  They would pile up literally 18" deep along the side of our house in a rural area.  The trains apparently couldnt get out of the Peace River valley, it was so bad. LOL.  

Thankfully havent seen anything like that in a long time...

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Coiler
0

Ha! That is awesome, yeah this was just north of Peace River, would have been 2014 ish.

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Andeh
+1 Mike Ferrentino

A MTB road trip to CB, CO is on my bucket list, specifically to ride in the aspens.  Spring or fall, either looks great.

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mikeferrentino
+3 Andeh Morgan Heater PeteCO

"Spring" is a monumental roll of the dice up there. Wait until at least sometime in June, when the Aspen have had enough time to fully green in. Fall, meanwile, could be a month or two of autumnal reverie or one glorious week in late September before the fist of winter smashes all the hope from your soul. CB is awesome, made only more so by how short the summer is!

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Hawkinsdad
+1 Mike Ferrentino

Awe, reverie, and gratitude to still be grunting upwards and flailing downhill while in the midst of such stunningly spiritual surroundings. Those states keep this arthritic 64-year-old rider enthused and persevering in the dirt. Thanks for another inspiring read, Mike.

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voodoobike
+1 Mike Ferrentino

In all my time spent in Colorado, I never heard it called trembling aspen, but quaking aspen. So I googled it and dang trembling was there although it says quaking is the more common of the commoner names. The largest aspen grove in Colorado is just over Kebler Pass west of Crested Butte. I got the Colorado bug when I first went to Crested Butte to race when all the racing in California was shut down because of some new law so the promoters could not get insurance. A few years later my girlfriend and I moved there. That was 1987. As for today, we finally just got a place in Salida, with a different girlfriend. Not that many Aspens right around Salida, yet many up in the all the endless mountains there are. Seems like Aspens like to grow where the ground is moist and tacky. Yet there's the roots too so it makes the riding even funner. That largest grove near Crested Butte, I always wondered driving that way if the road cut the grove in two smaller groves. Can't find anything on Google about that. More people now go to check it out these days, still lots of biting flies and mosquitoes, and some epic trails that few mountain bikes bother to go that far to ride. My buddy Jimmy from Crested Butte has a cabin above there past tree-line. The road is way steep, so it's better to go up on e-mountain bikes. I could go on.. Thanks for a story that's something different.

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mikeferrentino
0

I went with "trembling" because that's what Donald Culross Peattie used in his book, but you're right, most people preface "quaking". I usually just go with "Aspen". in the shrinking world zone, the person who first told me about "A Natural History Of Western Trees" some 30 years ago was Garro. Figures. Amazing book, contains some of the most beautifully poetic descriptions of western trees along with a ridiculous amount of hard information that ranges from life cycles to board feet estimates. A little outdated now, but still totally worth keeping handy.

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morgan-heater
0

Aspen starts at about 2k on the eastern side of the cascades. I really like the big aspen trees you can find in the sub alpine in the mountain states, one of my favorite memories from that area is skiing Mount Tukuhnikivatz followed by riding the whole Enchilada the next day. Such a crazy transition in biomes from 13k down to the colorado river.

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mikeferrentino
0

I probably should have clarified that more, or been more specific about my four corners/Colorado-centric Aspen regions. As you go north, and as climate becomes less arid, Aspen zones creep down in altitude. There's also a massive habitat range as you go north and east of the Rockies, but allegedly the trees also get generally a lot smaller and the groves are not as able to flourish due to competition.

And yeah, Whole Enchilada covers some ground, doesn't it? Incredible variety of landscape and habitat in one long awesome ride.

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morgan-heater
0

The trail itself I thought was just kinda "ok" in comparison to the PNW trails I'm used to, but the scenery was incredible. Getting cheers riding down the little tech sections was also good for my ego, although the guys from Colorado that I was riding with were incredible at the little techy climbing moves. The Aspens on the skin up to Tukuhnikivatz must have been 24" in diameter and 80' tall. So pretty.

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MikeDKittmer
0

For me, it’s those moments where nature has you stop your bike instinctively to take it in. I mean, the ride is the reason but these moments build out the full experience.

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lazybum
0

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