Full Review
Kona Ouroboros
Some reviews are relatively uncomplicated – a review bike neatly slots into a category, everything works as expected, and everyone from the engineers to designers, production and marketing teams did their job well. We do a first look to cover specs, geometry, details, and maybe some initial ride impressions. The full review follows, teasing out some nuance, strengths and weaknesses of particular design and spec choices, and hopefully there are no long-term durability issues. It takes some practice to adequately communicate ride characteristics, intangibles, and qualitative aspects of a bike; I won’t say it’s easy, but with focus, attention, practice, and an editor helping with my application of apostrophes, it’s a reasonably straightforward operation.
The Kona Ouroboros has been anything but easy or straightforward. That’s not a function of any failures by the Kona, it’s a feature. By design, the Ouroboros lives somewhere in the murkiness between mountain and gravel bikes. The geometry is a mishmash of the two, there’s a suspension fork, drop bars, and a sloping top tube. It's not really an ATB, either. It’s unabashedly a bit of a freak. Trying to fully digest this bicycle, let alone regurgitate it cogently for readers has taken some time (It’s up to you lot if I’ve been successful or not.).
I covered the features, spec, and waxed on about my Electromagnetic Theory of Bicycle Classification in a first look around the launch of the Ouroboros, and since then I’ve been fitting in rides on it, trying to puzzle out what it’s best at, and using it as a test platform for Shimano’s new 12 speed Di2 GRX drivetrain.
So, in these intervening months, what have we learned about the Ouroboros? Let’s start with some of the nuts and bolts.
Spec
I didn’t love the touch points provided by Kona – the saddle is a bit wide and squishy, the bars are a bit wide (more on that later), and the bar tape is a bit thin. These are personal preferences and it was straightforward to swap to a saddle of my choice (the heat-customizable Reform Seymour, reviewed by Deniz here), as well as some cushy Easton Microfiber tape. This is the tape I'd choose to run on all drop bar bikes, it's thick and cushy, and helps add some comfort especially with the small diameter bars spec’d by Kona. Elsewhere on the cockpit front, despite my initial whinging, I never changed out the stock KS dropper post lever, however this is absolutely something I’d recommend anyone do before they leave the bike shop with their new Ouroboros. The Easton EA90AX is a good replacement; unfortunately Apex 12 isn’t compatible with OneUp Components’s clever new drop-bar lever. I came to really like the long-travel dropper (coupled with sloped top tube) here, and I think it's a big contributor to the fun you can have descending on the Ouroboros as much as the rest of the geometry,.
If you’re looking for a tire for aggressive, rough, rocky terrain for your gravel bike, I’m a fan of the Maxxis Ravager tires spec'd here. While not the fastest rolling tire on the block, they make up for it with grip and a beefy, puncture resistant sidewall. They’re fit for purpose on the Ouroboros but I can’t help but wonder what this bike would feel like with small mountain bike tires (eg. 2.25” Maxxis Rekon Race), but you’re limited by the Rudy suspension fork. Kona also sells rigid Ouroboros variants that will fit 2.5” rubber. The stock wheelset on this Ouroboros CR is a bit heavy and stiff, but I’ve had no issues. The upgrade to Shimano’s GRX wheelset was a huge improvement in responsiveness and ride feel (this comes with a correspondingly large price tag, mind you).
I appreciated the 1x simplicity and wide range of the SRAM Apex 12-speed group. Coming off the Gucciest of drivetrains on my personal bikes, Apex shift quality didn’t always meet my dreams but fortunately the pull ratio is compatible with other 12-speed SRAM Eagle mountain derailleurs. Shop around your local classifieds, or find a friend with a GX or XO1 sitting in their parts bin because they changed to electronic shifting, or retired one because of a worn clutch.
Geometry and Sizing
Whether you're coming at the Ouroboros from road/gravel or mountain, the geometry chart is going to look a little foreign. In my First Look, I discussed my sizing choice; I went down a size from what Kona recommended from a nominal “56” to a “54”. I was looking to keep the stack a bit more moderate knowing I could get some reach back with a longer stem. To put the geometry in perspective, a size 56 Ouroboros has 3mm more stack than my size large Rocky Mountain Element, the size 54 tester here is a whopping 40mm taller up front than my personal gravel bike. I’m happy with this decision. This is again a matter of preference, but after adding 20mm of stem and slamming it, I found myself in a position I'm happy with from a comfort and handling perspective.
That doesn’t mean you should size down, but I’d strongly recommend trying an Ouroboros before you commit to a size – the geometry is just so different from most everything out there that it’s hard to decide based on some charts.
Riding the Ouroboros
My typical ride on a gravel bike is relatively tame. I’m usually stringing together gravel segments, urban paths, and goofy connectors trying to minimize contact with tarmac (and the cars that roam there) as much as possible. As a general rule I’m not out there to get extreme; I’m out to cover some miles, get some fitness, and explore. Mind you, I don’t live in Iowa so it’s not exactly perfect rail-grade covered in ¾” minus, but I’m not out pushing the rugged edges of gravel into mountain bike terrain. I have mountain bikes for that.
But this rugged edge where the Ouroboros excels over a conventional gravel bike – rough, chunky, slow, janky, undulating XC-ish trails - is far from the usual fare NSMB’s ordinary 170mm bikes eat for lunch. The Ouroboros is fun in places traditional gravel bikes are distinctly not fun. It encourages little side hits, singletrack side trails, and in the same way the bike exists in between genres it encourages rides that would be less fun on almost any other bike – too much distance and smooth connection to be any good on a mountain bike, with sections too rough and mountain-bike-y for a lesser gravel bike.
But while the Ouroboros does well in areas other gravel bikes struggle, it gives up remarkably little elsewhere. It’s not as snappy and responsive like a traditional gravel bike and the riding position is much more upright, but if you’re foraying over from the mountain bike world, it’s still going to feel like a rocket ship on tarmac and smooth dirt.
If you’re one of the folks out there thinking “everything you can ride on a gravel bike, you can ride on a mountain bike,” you’re right, but you’re missing the point. Sure, I could circumnavigate SFU from my house on my MaxxGrip Assegai-equipped We Are One Arrival, but it would be slower, harder, and worse in basically every way over a purpose-built tool. And while geometry of the Ouroboros isn't far off many XC bikes, especially from a few years ago, I'd argue vehemently with anyone who says it'd be better with flat bars. That'd just make it a bad mountain bike.
Conclusion
I started off here saying it took me a while to wrap my brain around the Ouroboros, but perhaps I’ve overthought the whole thing. Maybe it actually is simple, and the Ouroboros just does what it says on the tin: it’s a bike that tries to capture a little bit of several worlds, a blend of gravel, mountain, and ATB rolled into one. A bike that’s inherently imperfect at any single ride type, but ultimately perfect for rides that nothing else would quite work for. It’s a bike that expands the terrain available for you to on your drop bar rides, and increases the radius of available trails from your doorstep.
You also don't need to go ride aggressive terrain on the Ouroboros, if you're a baggy clothes or Hawaiian Shirt type gravel rider - if snacks, #coffeeoutside, and a general relaxed atmosphere where no one is in a hurry is your jam - the comfort afforded by bigger tires and upright geo will serve you well for meandering rides between third wave coffee shops, the Seawall, and the forest.
Earlier this year, I wrote a eulogy for Kona. Fortunately, the brand lives on, and its bikes like the Ouroboros that give me hope. It’s a bit kooky, unlike most other products on the market, and ultimately fills a small niche in a way others don't. It’s bikes like this that made Kona cool. Whether it’s dual-crown hardtails, full-suspension single speeds, or fully rigid freeride bikes, the brand has a storied history of pushing boundaries and creating unique builds. Now that the corporate snake is metaphorically eating itself and the brand has been re-purchased and given new life by its original owners, maybe we’ll see more progression and bikes that aren’t afraid to disregard the molds. In the meantime, the Ouroboros is out there for those who understand it, and want it.
Comments
Flatted-again
1 month, 4 weeks ago
I guess it’s cool, but I’m just disappointed when I see any bike meant to touch dirt with flat mount brakes. Shimano and sram need to stop messing around and give me the okay to put saint or code calipers on their drop bar skid triggers. I need my 203 rotors for this sort of bike.
(I know saint plus grx works, I just want gravel bike makers to do it from the factory)
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
I'm... not sure I agree with all that. I see no reasons for Saints or Codes on a bike like this, you're just going to utterly overwhelm the tires and available traction. This bike came stock with 180 rotors, I'm not sure you're going to find too many gravel bikes that'll be rated for larger. But I could be wrong!
Now, I get some of where you're coming from against flat mount in general, but on a bike like this I'm not fussed by it. They're a bit fugly, but there's also flat-post adapters, should you so choose (my partner's flatbar Landyatchz runs such an adapter up front, with a G2 brake.)
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fartymarty
1 month, 4 weeks ago
I've got old 2 pot XTs (785 IIRC) hooked up to my GRX shifters and they're more than powerful enough with 180/160 rotors.
Saints maybe in a full loaded touring rig, but this isn't that.
Agree on flat mounts. Whatever really need is a new post mount standard with removable barrel nuts or a new and improved bigger IS mount.
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Flatted-again
1 month, 4 weeks ago
So what I wrote was a bit tongue in cheek- that would be more brake than I run on my full sus, so on a gravel bike its definitely overkill. However, I’d much rather see a single brake standard instead of this bifurcation into two standards, especially when frames are designed in such a way that post mounts don’t fit, even with an adapter.
Maybe I’m just grumpy. That said, I haven’t heard a reason that convinces me that flat mount calipers have enough of a performance benefit to make a new standard.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Three standards - there's still IS bikes floating about!
I believe the main performance benefit of flat mount is weight and packaging.
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ShawMac
1 month, 4 weeks ago
IS mounts are more than just "floating about" on old frames! Here I am searching for an IS-PM adapter 203 for a new in box Banshee Legend when Canada Post is on strike. Amazon Chinese knock off it is!
Goddamn it Keith, Banshee framesets includes the headset, at least throw in a $15 Brake mount!
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
To be clear, I did mean that all three are currently in production.
Although IS is definitely the least common these days.
TristanC
1 month, 3 weeks ago
IS is my favorite, because if I screw up torquing a caliper on, then I destroy a $15 adapter - not a $1500 frame.
Andy Eunson
1 month, 4 weeks ago
If I were to get a gravel bike, and I am gravel curious, the bike would need to have room for 2.4 ish tires. You wouldn’t have to run tires that large but it’s nice to know you can if you want. The gravel here in Whistler is much better on a nice 2.4 XC race type tire because it’s pretty rough in places. My old Chameleon works well enough at the moment. The Saint Anne RSL tires I ran for a while make it a different bike. The Montrose RSL are almost as fast rolling but a bit heavier but tougher.
My young friend bought a used Kona gravel bike last summer. Steel. Don’t know the model but he road it from Vancouver to Fernie to visit us. Almost entirely off road. He swears by running 2.4 tires for a ride like that. Maybe this spring I’ll get one of these Kona Ouroboros bikes. There’s something about a "road" bike with mountain bike tires that appeals to me. I figure if Cooper likes this bike, so would I.
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Velocipedestrian
1 month, 4 weeks ago
If you start with a mtb frame you'll get bigger clearance, and usually better dropper options.
Still a work in progress, but I'm enjoying the Lego as usual.
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fartymarty
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Ditto with my Krampus Gravel...
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TristanC
1 month, 4 weeks ago
There are a few crossbreeds out there, my Stooge Rambler for example:
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Jotegir
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Andy, I'm not really sure where the line blends between XC and Gravel if we're talking clearance for 2.4 XC race tires (larger than what many pros run in XCO!), which I guess is kind of the point. If I were looking to keep the bars flat I'd be looking at blowout XC hardtails and selling the fork in favour of a suspension corrected rigid for your build, or picking up a clearout frame to get those curly bars. Trek's gotta put that procal Gen 2 frame on for a decent price sometime soon eh?
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Beyond some of the more subtle fit/geo features of "gravel" vs "xc", the additional hand positions offered by drop bars for long rides is a big selling point for me. It's not uncommon to see folks on flat bars running lil' stubby bar stumps to get some more options.
All that said, the world is your oyster if you wanna mix and match components from both worlds. You can get real weird, and really specific for exactly what you want the bike to be for.
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Zombo
1 month, 4 weeks ago
They're ugly but the sq lab inner bar ends are amazing for turning your xc bike into a competent gravel bike while still retaining all the things that make mountain bikes fun. People say they love underbiking but for me, riding a gravel bike on most trails just doesn't compare to the fun you can have on an xc bike with flat bars. Sure, maybe I'm a couple miles per hour slower on my way to the trails but that isn't the fun part anyways so who cares.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Yep. They're ugly but people swear by 'em.
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Todd Hellinga
1 month, 3 weeks ago
I've got em on my blur, which I love for the chunkier side of gravel over my gravel bike
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Andy Eunson
1 month, 4 weeks ago
I think it’s just a continuum between genres. I have searched a number of gravel bikes and few have sufficient tire clearance. There is no negative to having clearance for larger tires. When I raced road bikes in the 80s I had a frame that I could fit cyclocross tires on a race that event. Cross tires weren’t so big then but still it worked just fine. But things changed, the only good brakes were short reach and frames to suit. No room for proper fenders without rattles and rubs. The only downside to tire clearance is aesthetics. Some people care more about style than function. I think there are two types of gravel bike now. Gravel for road riders who want to ride gravel roads and no real single track and gravel bikes for mountain bikers who may wish to get way off beaten paths with unknown conditions. And there’s nothing wrong with either of those things. I just know where I would ride a gravel bike and what those trail conditions and road conditions are like. I rode cross bikes quite a bit up here and even with 40c tires, some roads were frightening to descend at speed.
I have had shoulder issues all summer that I think a drop bar might help. What really hurts is lifting my bike one handed onto my bike stand. Or similar movements. I’ve been forced to ride a lot of milder trails this season due to the shoulder. Or maybe a boat anchor of a bar Surly? Or a Jones bar for the hardtail. Next year. The season is about to end up here.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Its a continuum - hence the EM waves analogy I keep banging on about. But, we still put things in bins and categories for the sake of communication. And you're right, there's nothing wrong with any of the wavelengths, to date myself somewhat and quote Turner Bikes, "different strokes for different folks". I'm glad the variety exists.
One of the big reasons tire clearance is limited on many bikes is chainstay geometry - especially with road width cranks and q-factors, you run out of room between tire and chainring very rapidly. Even on gravel bikes with mtb width spindles, due to the relatively short chainstays you still run out of clearance.
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HollyBoni
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Carving out more tire clearance is not as easy as just widening the seatstays and chainstays. 2.4 clearance on a MTB is no big deal. But on MTBs you have a wider BB shell, wider Q factor cranks, wider chain line, and the chainring size is usually limited to 32-34T. On gravel bikes everything is narrower, and the max chainring size is much bigger. Then you have to overlap. On short, steep, drop bar specific frames toe overlap can be horrible even on bigger sizes with wide 29 tyres.
If I were you, i'd try MTB bars with more backsweep. I've been riding a 16 degree backsweep bar for a few months now. I don't even understand how I rode 7-9 degree bars in the past. When I go back, the position on the bike with those bars feels forced, stiff, uncomfortable, and I get hand pain. Even on technical stuff, I notice no downsides with the 16 degree bar. Everything feels more natural and relaxed.
I found that a dialed, comfortable flat bar setup is perfectly fine for me on 6-8 hour rides, or 3-4 day trips. You have more positions on a flat bar as well, you can move around a bit.
I kind of hate drop bars now. To me they only bring downsides, and absolutely no benefits other than being more aero (but I couldn't care less about that).
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Yep. Designing to fit big tires on gravel bikes is.... hard.
I'm a fan of drop bars for gravel, but I'm not here to tell anyone how they should ride, and what works for them.
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HollyBoni
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Of course, me neither. I've just seen too many comments where people acted like it's basically impossible to ride long distances with flat bars (not you of course), especially since gravel bikes exploded in popularity. I thought kind of the same as well in the past, until I started riding my MTB for longer and longer, and realized that wait, this works perfectly.
Cooper Quinn
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Indeed - you certainly can ride pretty much any ride you can ride on a gravel bike on a mountain bike. You're probably making some compromises on speed, hand positions, and pedaling position, but if it works for you and those are trade-offs you're willing to make it'll totally work.
Allen Lloyd
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Jones makes a bar with rise that I find to be absolutely perfect for a hardtail. I absolutely despise dropbars, they cause my back to bend too much and I have never ridden a dropbar bike and not been sore for days.
The Jones bar has so many hand positions that you can ride all day and shift weight around so that you are never in the same position too long. The only issue is if you are pulling up it uses your pectoral muscles so if you are not used to that it can take some time to get comfortable and to develop the muscle memory to be able to lift over stuff.
My current setup is a Jones bar on a late 90's Salsa el Mariachi with a 90mm suspension fork and Conti Race Kings. It isn't fast anywhere, but you can ride it all day and still feel fresh. The only other component of distinction is a 9 speed micro shift drivetrain. I like it because the gears are actually different. 11,12,13 is nice, but the gears all feel the same in the middle of the cassette. Microshift has noticeable gaps which to me is nice because almost never have to shift multiple gears at once.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 3 weeks ago
I'm picturing a bunch of Jones nerds* doing bent-over-rows in the gym squat rack wearing tan button up technical shirts and zip-off pants, with some 45lb plates on the end of their alt-bend-bars to get ready to start yankin' off some big jumps, and its.... something someone good at AI should try and generate, haha.
Microshift is interesting, I have it on an upcoming review bike (i guarantee this bike isn't what you think it is)
*not attacking you here, just trying to describe the image in my brain and having a laugh on the internet, hopefully
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Hugo Williamson
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Have a look at a Pace 429, very adaptable and can run a much bigger front cog than many MTB adaptations.
The 429 can be set up as flat or drop bar, suspended or rigid, proper brake mounts etc
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Tire choice is key, for sure. And it's the limiting factor for many frames.
If I were in your neck of the woods, the Ouroboros would be a contender for sure. Up and over Cougar into the Soo sounds nice!
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Michael Fitzgerald
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Salsa Cutthroat fits the bill. MTB wheel and crank spacing, full tire clearance specs, suspension fork-corrected geometry but comes with rigid carbon forks. It has lots of mounting points as well, I have three large bottle mounts inside the triangle for longer rides plus a top tube 'tank bag' for food, extras. It is a blast underbiking on smooth green singletrack as well as all kinds of gravel. I run 2.2 Race Kings and/ or Thunder Burts, but I can run 2.4 Aspens, Ikons, Peyotes, or similar as well as conventional 47 or smaller gravel tires. I really like the added all-day comfort of the 2.2 size without losing too much speed or efficiency, so this is my normal setup. Once the majority of the ride becomes rooty or rocky, an XC bike is more fun for me.
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fartymarty
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Cooper - I get where you are coming from with this review. My converted Krampus is closeish to the 56cm geometry which Kona recommend for me at 185cm.
It's a really interesting niche of bikes that I think will gain in popularity - especially from MTBers wanting a bike that allows more distance to be covered yet still able to take on easier trails.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
I'm a hair shorter than you. It's interesting to me that Kona stuck with traditional road nomenclature for the Ouroboros, given it's pretty disconnected from what those numbers mean, other than that my size is a classic 56.
The Ouroboros would have been a fantastic first foray into gravel for me - I was initially often riding in places that were just too rough for my Bjorn.
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fartymarty
1 month, 4 weeks ago
The more I'm looking into road sizing the more I'm liking it.
Altho maybe all frames should be sized on reach or DT length or something like that tho.
This is my hesitation about getting a "proper" gravel bike (that and lacking funds atm). If I could get a steel frame with the Krampus geo and a nicer tubeset and shorter fork / longer HT I would be keen as it does all the things I need it to.
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Andy Eunson
1 month, 4 weeks ago
This comment has been removed.
Fat_Tony_NJ
1 month, 4 weeks ago
I still think that a decent business model would be to make a Gravel Conversion Kit, in the same way that places sold 1X conversion kits when 1X was a new thing.
Affordable brifters that shift old Shimano or SRAM rear MTB mechs. Bundle them with cheap mechanical disc calipers, your choice of cheap stem & bars. Many old hardtails out there that would be fun to convert for a few hundred bucks.
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Ryan
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Ltwoo groupset is what you might be looking for in terms of brifters.
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Fat_Tony_NJ
1 month, 3 weeks ago
I had no idea these things existed. Thanks!
Have you tried them?
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araz
1 month, 4 weeks ago
Any thoughts on the necessity/benefits of the suspension fork vs a rigid on this bike?
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 4 weeks ago
It.... depends on what you want to do I suppose.
I think a squishy fork makes a lot of sense given the Ouroboros' intentions. However, the fork is what limits tire size to 50c so.... it's a bit of a problem for some applications.
I'm a fan of the weight/cost/simplicity of rigid for gravel, personally. But, I understand why the suspension fork makes sense for many people.
How's that for not answering the question?
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araz
1 month, 4 weeks ago
I'm with you on liking the simplicity of rigid for gravel, though my personal gravel riding is much more on the all-road end of the spectrum. I can really see the appeal of this bike if I lived in a place where there were more opportunities to connect together a wide variety of terrain. I guess I was asking how much the wide-ranging nature of this bike is dependent on having the suspension, or if it would keep this with a rigid. I suppose bigger tires could make up part of the difference.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Yep, it all exists on a spectrum, and finding your zone is key. And sometimes pushing the boundaries is the fun part, and sometimes it isn't.
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Michael Fitzgerald
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Lauf gravel fork allows wider tires and is pretty light, just enough to take the edge off but not pretending to be a mtb bike.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 3 weeks ago
I'm curious to try the Lauf - "polarizing" looks aside, I hear mixed reviews. Some folks swear by the simplicity and ability to damp high frequency vibrations, others complain about odd yaw characteristics of the front wheel under side loads.
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Larrabee
1 month, 3 weeks ago
I was “part of” Trans Iowa 2006 (there were no finishers… cold, rainy, headwinds).
Some Iowa “gravel” may be sweet 3/4” or 5/8” minus crushed limestone. However, much of Iowa is covered with what seems like loess — essentially volcanic ash. Add water and we couldn’t even push our bikes. We had to carry them. Think “prairie gumbo” or a 10+ lb mud snowshoe on each foot. Quite the experience.
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Cooper Quinn
1 month, 3 weeks ago
Due to family, I'm fairly familiar with Iowa, haha. It's part of why I called it out here. But yeah, that sounds like a disaster...
As a geologist I'm contractually obligated to point out that loess isn't really ash, but yeah it's accumulations of very fine wind-borne particles, hence their often-clayey nature. When shit goes sideways like that out in the middle of long rides it's the stuff of nightmares.
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