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Introducing the Ibis HD6

Photos Deniz Merdano
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Today Ibis launches the HD6, a 165mm travel carbon mullet bike. A worthy successor to the HD5, it’s focused on enduro racing and big mountain riding. The Mojo moniker of the Ibis HD series has been dropped, though all mojo is retained with what this nimble beast is trying to achieve.

I’ve seen many an Ibis flying and wading around the Shore, but not a 160+mm travel rig that could square up against the current breed of contemporary enduro bikes. When the HD5 finished production in 2021, I wondered how long it would take Ibis to sort out a proper enduro racing tool.

Ibis' Enduro Team riders have been aboard the HD6 for well over a year, and various spy shots of the HD6 surfaced online. The brand dashed many rumours, reminding us that a curved top tube is part of the visual identity of the HD series. Nonetheless, a straight top tube crowns the HD6, casting some beautiful angular lines onto the DW Link platform.

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The forest green/black intersection on the top tube feels like a visual nod to the previous curvatures of the Ibis HD line.

Frame Details

The HD6 is built exclusively out of carbon and has five different frame sizes, small to XXL. The lifetime warranty-supported frame hits the scale at a svelte 6.2 lbs/2.81 kgs (without shock). There are no flip chips or wheelbase adjustments, and this is a dedicated mixed wheel setup of 29/27.5”.

Arriving with a Fox Float X2, the dual-link DW platform doles out a whopping 165mm of rear wheel travel and is progressive enough to allow riders to run a coil shock if they so desire. Fork travel is set at 180mm, for maximum smash.

Sealed cartridge bearings live at each pivot, other than the lower link which runs a sealed lifetime bushing. Torque specs are laser-etched into the pivot bolts. Continuous internal cable routing keeps things tidy, and moulded frame protectors minimize high wear zones of the chainstay, inner seat stay, and lower downtube/bb area. A textured shuttle guard lives on the bottom of the downtube, fending off shuttle rash. The derailleur bolts into a UDH dropout and is SRAM transmission compatible. Maximum dropper seatpost length is 213mm, though other droppers may work too, depending on their stack height.

The HD6 we received is a colour sample, but production models have an under top tube mount for accessories. A standard water bottle mount sits above the BB junction. While there’s no internal frame storage, the Ibis Bone-In Pork Chop bag clips into the front triangle (but won't fit the small-sized frame) for some minimal bikepacker steeze, if you’re into that.

Frame Specs

  • Seat tube: 34.9mm
  • Dropper clearance (BikeYoke): 213mm.
  • Chainring clearance: 30-36T
  • 55mm chain line
  • 180mm brake post mount, max. rotor size 220mm
  • UDH derailleur hanger
  • 2.6" tire clearance


Geometry numbers are well thought out on the HD6, sitting right in the middle of sensible enduro race geometry. At 6’/182cm tall, I’ll be testing the large sized HD6. The 480mm reach is moderate, particularly paired with a 40mm stem. Seeing as some racers prefer slacker (or steeper, 65° for Canadian EDR boss Rhys Verner) head angles, 64° is a great baseline from which to start. The 76.5° seat tube angle should handle all types of climbs. Proportional seat tube angles grow 0.5° per frame size, from 76° for the small and medium frames, to 77.5° for the XXL.

The 1256mm wheelbase is long enough for stability at speed, and the 435mm chainstay length applies to all sizes of the HD6, for lightning quick turning.

The head tube looks tiny at 90mm, which I’m sure plays in to the light weight of the frame. The stack height sits at 630mm - very race appropriate, with enough spacers on the steerer to allow for height adjustments.

Screenshot 2023-06-26 11.34.38

The Build

Ibis prioritizes premium dampers with maximum adjustability on every HD6, regardless of the build kit. Suspension duties are handled by a 180mm Fox Float 38 Factory fork up front, and a 230x65mm Float X2 Factory shock in the rear, providing 165mm of travel.

I’m riding the XT build kit version of the HD6. The current iteration of Shimano XT has been nothing but an absolute workhorse, from the drivetrain through the brakes. My only wish is a 220mm rotor (vs. the 203mm Shimano Ice-Tech Freeza stock rotor).

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The proven Fox Float 38 Factory. 180mm travel allows a lot of leeway for smashing nearly everything in its way.

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Float X2 Factory, a standard eyelet mount with easy access to the HSR dial.

The HD6 arrived in two boxes last week, one with the frame, the other with wheels/tires. Cracking open the second box revealed a pair of Ibis S35 carbon wheels, a 35mm internal width low profile carbon rim laced to centerlock I9 Hydra hubs with 32 Sapim CX-Ray bladed J-bend spokes. Yum! The wide rims definitely lend to a wider, yet shallower tire profile. They feel very light but time will reveal their lifespan.

Considering Ibis is based out of Santa Cruz, California, the tire spec is appropriate, with a 2.5 x 29” Assegai EXO+ MaxxTerra in the front, and a 27.5” Minion DHR2 DoubleDown MaxxTerra in the rear. On an enduro-focused bike, I’d like to see the front Assegai changed to a MaxxGrip DoubleDown for endless traction. Luckily, tires are easily changed to preference, so Ibis can have a pass with this tire spec.

The cockpit is another I9/Ibis affair, a 31.8mm diameter/800mm wide/30mm tall Ibis HiFi carbon bar bolts to an Industry Nine A318 40mm stem. Lizard Skins Charger Evo grips and a 142 mm WTB Silverado cro-mo railed saddle are thoughtful contact points. A BikeYoke Revive 185mm dropper post handles saddle ups and downs. I’ve had the opportunity to use the reset lever a few times with solid success - cartridge replacement or dropper bleeds are a thing of the past with the BikeYoke Revive.

The XT build of the HD6 with additional carbon Ibis/I9 wheels retails for 8899 USD, the alloy Blackbird wheelset accompanying the same XT build tames the price down to 7499 USD.

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First Ride Impressions

I've ridden the HD6 five times so far. The geometry is very similar to my Rocky Mountain Altitude with a mixed-wheel/mullet setup. The cockpit of the HD6 feels very comfortable, and the directional Lizard Skins grips are plenty grippy for gloveless hands. I'm skeptical that my rump will get along with the raised nose of the WTB Silverado saddle over the long term. Saddles are intensely personal, so I'm not worried. The BikeYoke Revive is my first experience with one of their products, and call me impressed - lever action is light and smooth. If I could be picky, I’d ask for a 213mm Revive post to accommodate more saddle clearance.

Shifting of the Shimano XT gruppo is one of the smoothest cabled derailleur systems going, especially under load. The XT brakes are very powerful and paired with the Ice Tech Freeza rotors, fade has been non-existent. I have noticed a wandering bite point a few times on what seemed to be endless shuttle laps. Dear Shimano, please produce a 220mm Ice Tech Freeza rotor - I guarantee they won't collect dust on shelves.

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There are many people who will claim they'll never use the climb switch on their shock, so they can have a little bit of traction on slower technical climbs. This makes sense. There are also folks who will claim they want to see how their suspension acts on more linear climbs, like smooth pitches of fire roads and the like. I've never been one of those people - why the hell would I not use a tool if it's there? Especially if it's ANY aid for climbing? I can genuinely say the Ibis HD6 is the best pedaling enduro bike I've ridden, ever. There is a great amount of traction sent to the wheels on the few technical climbs I've attempted, with minimal suspension bob. Getting out of the saddle, the DW Link feels spry and quells nearly all bouncing from too much lazy body english, keeping your momentum moving forward, not downward. The 31 lb weight also helps to keep the lively climbing feel. I've yet to experience any full-day epic rides on the HD6, but I'm keen to see how it fares. The limiting factor on climbs will be me, not the bike.

Descending, the near-freeride amounts of travel are juxtaposed by the supportive DW Link platform - the antithesis of feeling lethargic. I'll play around with shock pressures and volume spacers in the X2, and out of the box 30% sag feels on the money. The X2 shock is so energetic that I'm reluctant to try out a coil, but I likely will for the long-term review. I haven't received any tuning suggestions from Ibis for the HD6, and I'm keen to see if their ethos has changed from using open compression damping and fast rebound. So far, the rear end feels very composed and stable.

Again, geometry numbers are very close to my personal ride, but the 435mm chainstays are shorter and immediately noticeable. The rear end wants to carve around every damn corner and push you out faster than you'd entered, even on flat corners. The dedicated mullet setup found a Scandi-flick where I'd never known there to be, on a regularly benign right/left. Judging by the pictures of my riding position on the HD6, I should be able to pressure the front end quite a bit more, attempting to find more speed in the turns. On paper, the shorter chainstays make me wonder if cornering agility will come at the cost of flat out stability. Luckily that's not the case, but remember - I'm riding at Shore speeds, which are generally low compared to faster flow trails across the globe.

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This Ibis corners like a chihuahua that's wandered into a pile of Heisenberg's finest.

The new Ibis HD6 is a recipe to extract Ibis' enduro DNA from the not-quite-hardened amber. So far, it's a crazy quick cornering bike that feels the furthest from a 165mm-travel sled and is attuned to hard charging rides on steeps, or trying to set your new personal best on a flow trail.

Ibis HD6

Graham Driedger

Age - 38

Height - 182cm/6ft

Weight - 92kg/205lb

Ape Index - 1.035

Inseam - 32"/81cm

Mountain: Seymour

Bar Width - 780-800mm

Preferred Reach - 475-500mm

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+8 momjijimike 93EXCivic roil Cr4w Ryan Walters Graham Driedger Jerry Willows dhr999 Znarf Andy Eunson Dogl0rd WasatchEnduro

They must be joking with those head tube lengths.


+1 dhr999 Andy Eunson WasatchEnduro

Duhhh....Let's make a super short headtube so people can use spacers and riser bars regardless.  

Yup... suck and blow at the same time.

I'd be legit concerned about that headtube failing at some point.  180mm travel on a 29er fork is a long lever.  Would just rather make headtube taller, and compensate for bar height by running low rise bars or even a stem with negative drop.


+2 Velocipedestrian Andy Eunson

On the plus side, placing your top and bottom headset bearings right next to each other should do wonders to alleviate stresses on the CSU! lol


+4 Cr4w DancingWithMyself Ryan Walters Graham Driedger dhr999 Chris WasatchEnduro Lu Kz

435mm cs on 541mm reach...good luck with that 🙄


+2 Niels van Kampenhout bishopsmike

That stack number in XXL doesn't add up. So the Ibis XXL stack: 685 and the Megatower XXL stack: 670??

Yeah it's got a 180mm fork but a tiny 115mm head tube. And I'm to believe this bike has 15mm more stack than an XXL Megatower (which has a 170mm fork and a 150mm head tube)?



The stack number seems off for all sizes.


+5 Cr4w Cam McRae IslandLife Tremeer023 bishopsmike

Comment from Hans-heim on PinkBike.

hans-heim (32 mins ago)

There's an error on the XXL geo - TT length is 685, Stack is actually 651 on the HD6. We'll fix it!


+6 DancingWithMyself Shoreboy dhr999 Cr4w Moritz Haager WasatchEnduro

For this price, size specific chainstays should be a given and I’m talking about Forbidden levels of size specific that balance front and rear, not Yeti which adds 1 or 2mm per size. 🥲


+3 Graham Driedger 93EXCivic DadStillRides

I'm personally glad not everyone is doing size specific stays. I really, really like 435 stays in an XL and if they all went size specific (read: long as fuck in the big sizes these days) I'd be out of luck.


+3 Graham Driedger Pete Roggeman Tadpoledancer

I can confirm that Graham has been riding fast and smooth on this machine. And it looks great on person as well.


+3 Cam McRae Pete Roggeman WasatchEnduro

Some pretty good updates and looks a lot more like a ripmo than a mojo. I guess since it has the 27.5" rear, they kept with the mojo moniker.

I can't find any info on how progressive the rear is. Wondering if they are sticking around 19% like a ripmo

Good to see better chainstay and link protection. 

Updates I wish they would have implemented:

Headset cups to change the geometry/reach. These are great options that really allow riders to adjust the fit and feel. I like what specialized is doing with adjustments that make larger changes. Ibis seems to have a we know best mentality, but even on their team there is a lot of variation in preference.

Flip clips for frame progressively and chain stay length. Lots of riders running cascade links on ripmos because the frame isn't progressive enough.

In frame storage. I like the porkchop bag on my ripmo, but in frame + porkchop would have been great. In frame should be standard on all new designs. Call its the birds nest.

Bigger stack. At 5'11" on a large ripmo, I run a lot of spacers + high rise bars. I know that ibis likes small people to be able to ride larger frames, but it really does compromise the fit for riders that are close up limit of the suggested frame size.



I think on a bike with short chainstays you don't want the bars so high anyway. Everyone's different... For me it's more natural to corner on a bike like that with lower bars. With longer CS higher bars are cool


-2 Pete Roggeman Joseph Crabtree dhr999 bishopsmike

There are Geometrons and there are Arrivals and I am torn between complexity and choice paralysis vs. zen like simplicity.

When companies have multiple bike and there are multiple companies I think I rather leave most manufacturers to design a bike with intent.  Have a bike that does X not XY maybe Z and if you swap the seat tube/top tube and add a platform you can make a stridor bike.  Have the bike be the best at it's niche so it can shine.

When we get into it if you need change multiple geometry numbers, leverage curves and travel then maybe the bike is not right for the rider.  Given the sheer volume of different companies and bikes there must be a good fit out there without adding the effort WC mechanics and teams do to prototype the latest one-one hundredth gainer bike.  Some will always like to puzzle and that is great.

Then again I need to give a point to the people who may want a quiver killer and not have the space to ride 9 bikes so they ride9...shout out to RM Co.

Then again again I do not put Forrester struts on my Impreza because, intent.



Dude, what?

There's a lot of sense in modularity of frames, if it lines up with what engineers and product managers are trying to achieve. I don't believe manufacturers are trying to pull some proverbial wool over your eyes when they use the same architecture for different models. Sure, the RM Instinct and Altitude share the same frame, but the shock mount is different, as is stroke length. This makes them completely different rides - minute pivot location changes many geometry values: travel, progressivity, leverage ratio, anti-squat...the list goes on. 

Sure, the Ride-9 offers perhaps too many variables, but if I went to the East Coast and was riding more flat jank, I'd throw the Altitude in 7/8/9 for a higher BB, longer reach, and more open suspension. I think you'd be hard pressed to see ANYONE upset with the current Altitude - that thing fucking rips, is reliable, with significant attention to detail for frame features. Perfect? No, but evolution is continuous and manufacturers are cognizant of that. 

Guerilla Gravity and the beloved WAO Arrival also share modular frame systems, switching links and shocks out to achieve vastly different ride characteristics. 

Turns out some dickhead put Impreza struts on my Forester. I really like it. Would I rather have stock ride height? Yeah, but it's been fun to hoon the hell out of corners with the current setup.



I feel like I saw 23% progressivity somewhere, but I'll have to verify with Ibis for numbers. Nonetheless, they're confident it can run a coil, and it looks as if their EDR athletes are doing exactly that.

As for the angleset, it certainly is convenient when manufacturers engineer it in-house. The Cane Creek 40 headset doesn't strike me as something which will live a lengthy life on the Shore, and aftermarket anglesets are easy to install when the 40 sees itself out the door.

I hear you re: flip chips and in-frame storage. 

The stack height is reasonable on the HD6. I'll inquire about the HT junction sizing. 

The WAO Arrival also has a relatively short head tube, with a 5mm shorter stack. I'm more torso than legs, and still have 5mm skyward of stem spacers to play with. I'll see what shakes out. I do ride a lot of steep trails, and the HD6 doesn't feel out of place.


+3 Luix Velocipedestrian Graham Driedger

Plus 1 for Birds nest.


+3 Cam McRae Deniz Merdano Graham Driedger Blofeld WasatchEnduro

I typically don't comment on competitor articles, but inaccurate weights are a pet peeve of mine. Ibis lists a size large frame with a Float X2 weighing in at 3.5kg. A 230x57.5-65 Float X2 weight approximately 685g without hardware, which means that the frame weighs 2.815kg, and not the ~2.5kg listed in the article. 

Weight comment aside, it's a beautiful looking frame. The green colourway is quite at home in the dark woods of Seymour.



Is it possible there's 315g of hardware? It seems like a lot, but I've never thought about it or weighed them.

Whether or not they dropped those grams for marketing is up for debate? Its like car companies listing dry weights; yeah I'm pretty sure you're gonna need radiator fluid and oil to make it move, but lets list it w/o... or did someone just pull a few numbers of technical spec sheets and not do all the math as an honest mistake.


+2 Graham Driedger bishopsmike

Curious on CDN prices...  see how it compares to other brands of similiar spec.  

$1400 US$ for upgraded carbon wheels is really high.  You could get WAO wheels and have a spare set.



Me too, Jerry. I'd be surprised if Canadian prices follow exact USD to CAD conversions, I'll update this when I find out. Hopefully the same idea translates to the wheels.

We all the WAO product and price, yeah it's hard to beat, but these are Hydra hubs too - personal preference aside, they do command a higher price, as do the Sapim CX-Ray spokes.


+2 Graham Driedger bishopsmike Cam McRae Dogl0rd

Graham, first off, good work on the article.  Better than PB :)

Second, CS to reach/front centre ratios.

I know the bike exists as its entirety and in an ecosystem but as someone who regularity transitions between bikes, have you found a ratio of rear centre to front centre that fulfills the 90% rule?  

I was a short CS evangelist for a while and now I am looking for possibly a more stable relationship when things get rocky.

*90% rule: 90% of the time, it works all the time.


+2 Graham Driedger Cam McRae

While my jury is still out, the short flip-chip setting on the Slayer (439mm CS) has me short-chainstay-curious for north shore riding.


+2 Graham Driedger WasatchEnduro

I'd disagree that 439mm is short. I'd call it perfect...


+1 Graham Driedger

Ok, shorter than I'm used to.



I feel that! 439mm and below is short-ish for me too, but makes the rear wheel so easy to place with precision.


+1 WasatchEnduro

I ride the ol 430 CS and 419 CS on my hardtail.  I am more curious about 440-450 with 480 reach numbers personally.


+2 Gage Wright WasatchEnduro

I recently got a 125/140 29er with 445mm chainstays and still have my 160/170 27.5 with 435 CS. I definitely like longer stays and bigger hoops for climbing and pedally chunk, but the shorter stays and smaller wheels seem to have no downside on steep descents. I'm 6'2". Granted I haven't tried a comparable long-travel bike back-to-back, so it's just an observation. For me personally I say horses for courses.

I'm surprised how much I still like the bigger bike with smaller wheels and shorter rear end. I thought I'd hate swapping between the two bikes, but it's seamless.


+3 Andy Eunson Gage Wright dhr999

Thanks Gage. 

I've ran the 449mm CS/long setting on my Altitude for years, and ir feels balanced, I feel like I'm right in the middle of the bike. I'll be switching it to the short setting ASAP to see how much faster the corners are. Switching to short mode in the past, when I was far less active on the bike in general, the bike felt unstable - which is on me, not the bike. Now that I have a better sense of what a shorter CS will do, I'll try to be ambidextrous and swap more often. 

Personally,I haven't found a perfect proportion/ratio yet. Each bike has different ride characteristics and is a sum of its parts/geometry. I feel like high speed stability of the HD6 might come at a compromise of it's straight-line stability, but I'll need to ride the hell out of it to find out.

I agree that 435mm CS length across the whole size range is VERY tight. I'm happy with the large sized bike I'm on, but I'd be wary if I were taller and needed an XL/XXL.


+1 Graham Driedger

Looks nice



I was very curious for this new Ibis. With long legs and arms and typically between L and XL on most frames, I have a very hard time imagining me on a large with this tiny headtube. 

I’ll have to test ride. Maybe an XL with 3cm of spacers below the stem, but I’m highly skeptical. 

My current large frame has 130mm headtube, 480mm reach and 657 stack with a 170mm fork. (I ride a 180mm with around 10mm (headset top cap and 5mm spacers) and a 20mm rise bar. Feels perfekt with 440mm chainstays.

Most fork manufacturers forbid more than 30mm of headset spacers btw…



I'm still amazed by how the Kashima frosting is used to justify a higher price point. Stanchions/shafts wearing out faster than other surface treatments, broken X2 shocks left and right, and no overall improvement beyond a hard to color match piss-chrome shade.



You've seen Kashima wear off Fox suspension? I'd agree that the Performance Elite version of the 38 is just as good as the Factory 38, though I've heard some local mechanics anecdotally tell me that Kashima indeed wears far better than the factory black coating.

If indeed the X2 Performance Elite has the exact same damper as the Factory X2, I'd purchase that too. It has in the past but I don't know what current iterations have as their setup. 

X2 shocks have a bad rap, yeah. We've dealt with many of them here at NSMB. When they work, they're absolutely incredible. My understanding is that Fox is trying to help customers out who have experienced warranty issues with their 2021-2023 X2 shocks by replacing internals with 2024 bits. The verdict is out on how the 2024 will fare, though I can't blame folks who are over the warranty issues and have subsequently switched to a different shock. The X2 on the HD6 has been amazing thus far, and I'll report back in the long-term review if things change.



I am almost the exact same size as you and ride 95% of the time on the North Shore. For the past few years have been on a size L Ibis Ripmo v2 and would like to try something different.  Do you think the HD6 is the best option on the market right now?  What else would you personally consider if you could only have one bike for riding here?



Hey Danjel. 

I think there are many factors at play when it comes to what you're looking for in a bike. I've had the HD6 for a grand total of two weeks, so the jury is still out, with how well it performs over a wide scenario of riding situations. I wonder how the medium-length wheelbase and very short chainstays will play into high-speed runout situations, like feeling fatigued after a long climb, needing to hold a line on some dusty higher-speed terrain. It's easy to change direction, but will the bike feel too active and command my energy to tame it down vs. something with a longer CS & WB for more stability? Your steering actions could be much different than how I ride. 

What kind of Shore terrain do you prefer? I've not tried a Ripmo, but considering how others describe its ride characteristics of feeling spry and pedaling very well - the HD6 has this in spades.



I wish I could be riding in Squamish and WBP in faster, flowier trails but realistically don't have the time. I just moved to the foot of Mt. Fromme so I will be on those trails the most (7th, expresso, lower digger etc.) Between Fromme and Seymour I will be on lot's of slower, techy trails, even if they are not my favourite type of riding. I guess they are great for building skills though. 

My other top choices for bike right now are the We Are One Arrival 170 MX which would still have a short chainstay but longer wheelbase.   The SC Megatower and Nomad also seem pretty popular around these parts and I am sure they would be ok (and easy to buy/sell if I change my mind).


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