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REVIEW

Ibis Ripmo 3 Review

Photos Mike Archer (action) & Niels van Kampenhout (product)
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“It tickles me in a way no new bike has for a while.” That was my first impression of the new Ibis Ripmo two months ago. Not a particularly useful conclusion, I know, but sometimes we just take an intuitive liking to a bike. The question left unanswered was, of course, why did I like it? And would the tickling last beyond the first few rides? Here we are two months later to tell you everything about riding the new Ripmo.

The first impressions article has all the details like geometry and specs but here’s a recap of the key features:

  • 160 mm front, 150 mm rear travel (DW-link)
  • 29" wheels (MX-compatible via flip chip)
  • Five sizes (S-M-XM-L-XL) with "size-specific everything"
  • Internal frame storage
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Size L Ripmo: 64.5° HTA, 77° STA, 506 mm reach, 643 mm stack, 438 mm chainstays, 349 mm BB height.

Digging a little deeper, size-specific bottom bracket heights (clearance increases going up in the size range) stand out as a unique feature. At the same time, the chainstays only grow 5 mm across the entire range. As a result, the size Large Ripmo tested here has a relatively high bottom bracket and relatively short chainstays. As it turns out, these play a big role in defining the bike’s character.

Before we dive in, I’ll add my usual disclaimer. I’m not an expert rider and I never tested the limits of the Ripmo. However, I found it an easy bike to understand and think I got a good grasp of its character on the trail and how it rides in different types of terrain.

Setup

Ibis suggests 25-30% sag for the rear shock and after some experimentation, I settled on 30%. Starting from the recommended damper settings, the Float X only needed a touch more rebound damping to feel spot on. The rear suspension is sensitive around the sag point but ramps up deeper in the travel, resulting in a smooth ride with plenty of support.

Getting the new Grip X damper in the Fox 36 fork where I wanted it took more time. I ended up with a relatively soft air spring (~28% sag, Ibis suggests 18-25%) and fast rebound. Compared to the outgoing Grip 2 damper I’m very familiar with, I found the low and high speed compression adjustment range on the Grip X more useful. However, the lack of high speed rebound adjustment was noticeable. We’ll get back to the fork’s performance in a bit.

The Large Ripmo fit my 187 cm (6’2”) frame well and immediately felt comfortable and familiar. With three of the five spacers under the 50 mm stem, and the saddle in a neutral position, the stock cockpit worked well for me.

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The stock cockpit setup worked well for me...

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...but the Grip X damper on the 36 took some time to get where I wanted it.

Riding Impressions - Climbing

On the way up, the Ripmo feels very energetic, somehow combining an efficient pedalling platform with loads of traction. It seems to inject a little extra forward momentum into every pedal stroke.

Logging roads and smooth climb trails are dealt with efficiently and the Ripmo eats technical climbs for lunch. The rear suspension moves easily around the sag point and, together with the 2.5 inch Maxxis DHR2, provides impressive traction.

On complex technical climbing moves, I found it easier to distribute my weight over the bike compared to bikes with a similar front-centre but a longer rear-centre. The higher bottom bracket reduces the need to time pedal strokes with precision to clear obstacles.

Bottom line, the Ripmo is among the best climbing bikes I’ve ridden in this segment.

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Cross country

Due to its efficient pedalling and snappy handling, the Ripmo does surprisingly well on rolling and meandering XC-style trails. I took it on a bunch of different XC-ish rides and had a lot of fun. The suspension handles rooty slow-tech trails well and the abundance of travel didn’t get in the way on the smoother trails.

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Descending

Going down, I’d describe the Ripmo’s character as lively and engaging. I found its handling more intuitive than similar bikes I’ve ridden recently.

The Ripmo is a hoot on fast flow and light to medium tech. It’s easy to maneuver and make split-second direction changes. The short rear end takes very little effort to move around and loves to drift. It also makes unweighting the front end easy.

I was most surprised by how well the Ripmo tackles slow, steep B.C. gnar. The generous clearance and knowing I could pull off a split-second line change, noticeably increased my confidence on intimidating trail sections.

The Ripmo doesn’t feel as planted as many other bikes in this segment now do, and this is most apparent on fast, rough descents. The rear end feels a touch nervous and the suspension is supportive but not super forgiving. To be clear, I still found the Ripmo stable enough and riding it in fast chunky terrain was fun and arguably more exciting than on a super calm bike.

Personally, I’m finding many bikes too stable now and it seems I’m not alone. Even some enduro pros prefer a more agile bike, at least for some courses. In fact, Greg Callaghan chose the Ripmo over the HD6 to ride the World Cup in Loudenvielle and promptly ended up on the podium!

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The Ripmo frame is user-friendly and feels nicely compliant.

Technical report

I didn’t run into any major issues with the Ripmo over the duration of the test. The bike as a whole comes across as a high-quality, well-thought-out product. The threaded BB, cable routing with internal guides, 34.9 mm seatpost diameter, standard eyelet shocks, and UDH all point to a user-friendly and durable platform. I didn’t take the suspension linkage apart but it looks like a straightforward job.

In terms of stiffness, the Ripmo hits the sweet spot for me with a nice level of compliance without feeling flexy. Subjectively, I'd say it's a bit more compliant than the average bike.

The downtube storage is well designed. It’s easy to open and close and between the two Cotopaxi bags, you can easily fit a minipump, tire plug kit, small minitool, a small snack and maybe your keys. Personally, for most of my rides, I continue to sling on my minimalistic 1L Evoc bum bag which I find easier and it can fit a little more.

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The downtube storage is practical and well-designed.

Components

Most of the Ripmo's components did their job as expected. The following stood out one way or another:

The Fox 36 Grip X fork didn’t have the same composure on fast chunky descents that I’m used to from my reference 36 Grip 2. On the latter, I would have reached for the HSR adjustment but that isn’t available on the Grip X. I’ve had other Fox forks in the past that weren’t great out of the box and took a long time to fully break in so that could be it. More time and perhaps a service would be needed to get to the bottom of this.

The 4-piston XT brakes performed well without any sign of the dreaded wandering brake point. I did run into some minor but annoying issues with the pads and rotors. Both Icetech rotors had a wobble out of the box, and due to their thick aluminum spider these are practically impossible to straighten. Also, the finned pads rattled in the calipers while riding rough terrain. I like simplicity and would prefer regular steel rotors and unfinned pads. For my riding, I'd upgrade the 180 mm rear rotor to a 200 too while we're at it.

I liked the traction and comfort provided by the 2.5 inch Maxxis Assegai and DHR2 combo on 35 mm aluminum Blackbird rims. This was my first experience with the 2.5 DHR2. Compared to my reference 2.4 DHR2 on a 30 mm rim, the 2.5 offered more traction but felt slightly more vague in loose corners. The 36 points of engagement of the Blackbird rear hub were sufficient for my needs.

Contact points are very personal but I found the Lizard Skin Charger grips and especially the WTB Silverado saddle very comfortable.

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The 36 Grip X struggled on fast chunky descents.

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Rattling pads and rotors that are impossible to straighten, Icetech isn't worth the trouble to me. Keep it simple.

Value

While I like the Ripmo a lot, is it good value? I struggled with this question. Ibis is a premium brand and I'm a cheap bastard.

All the build kits offered by Ibis are pretty nice, with the XT build being my sweet spot. If money was no object, that’s the one I would get. 6,499 USD is a lot of money though. I'd be happy riding the SLX (5,699) or Deore (4,999) build, but still think that's a lot of dough.

If I was spending my own money, I'd probably hold out for an aluminum-framed version and hope for a mid-level build kit under 4,000 USD.

You may not be as frugal as I am though, and if the Ripmo is within your budget, you get a really nice premium product that is well designed and super fun, and could be a bike to hold on to for many years.

If you are a SRAM fan but prefer a mechanical drivetrain, you’re out of luck. Transmission only. Just get the XT build, it’s great!

If you've embraced consumerism and are looking to spend five figures, the X0 Transmission build with the carbon wheels option is for you!

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Final words

I found the new Ripmo a refreshing take on the burly trail bike. Most bikes in this segment are pretty similar these days but Ibis did a great job giving the Ripmo a distinct character. The way it engaged me as a rider reminded me of the Spectral 125 I tested a few years ago. The Ripmo similarly encouraged me to get into trouble but, contrary to the shorter travel Canyon, it was always there to get me out of it too.

Who is this Bike for?

If you like a lively trail bike that is confidence-inspiring and engaging but is also there for you when you didn’t bring your A-game, the Ripmo could be for you. Especially if you like owning a single bike that can do it all from long pedally rides to the occasional day in the bike park, and everything in between.

For those times when you are having the N+1 jitters, you can even convert it to a mullet or to a 140/130 bike by installing the Ripley clevis and a different fork and shock.

If you prefer your trail bike to handle more like an enduro sled, you may want to look for something a little slacker up front and longer out back.

I had a blast riding the Ripmo and my early positive impression definitely held up. If this review provides enough clues for you to get an idea whether the Ripmo might work for you and it's within your budget, I highly recommend you check it out.

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Find more information about the Ripmo at ibiscycles.com.

niels@nsmb.com
Niels van Kampenhout

Location: Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, BC
Model Year: 1980
Height: 187 cm / 6'2"
Weight: 78 kg / 172 lbs
Riding style: Zenduro™

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Comments

justwan-naride
+4 paradox@Goet Niels van Kampenhout Jotegir BarryW

"Ibis is a premium brand and I'm a cheap bastard"

I second this. I like most things Ibis makes but I'd never spend that much. If money was no object though the Ripmo (in mullet guise) would make the perfect quiver killer for me. I hope they do present alu equivalents of the new Ripmo and Ripley in the future, hopefully without storage space to save some weight and cash. 

One question: did you find the kinked part of the downtube in front of the bb prone to contact with rocks, logs etc?

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neologisticzand
+1 justwan naride Niels van Kampenhout Merwinn

I can't speak to this specific bike, but I can speak to bikes with similarly shaped downtubes near the BB like the yeti sb130, sb140, and sb160 (the sb130 had an even larger, more prominent lower downtube). 

Once I put a bashguard on, I did not find any issue with hitting the frame while riding over technical features like logs. I find it's slightly far enough forward that the bashguard is still the most likely point of contact. Though I do wonder if it get hit by more loose pebbles/stones when riding at speeds as it's closer to the front wheel. If it does, it's not more often enough that I notice it compared to some other bikes I've ridden

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Captain-Snappy
+2 finbarr Abies

Helicopter tape / Ride wrap will solve your worries about paint chips on the down tube.

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niels@nsmb.com
+2 Merwinn Abies

No clearance issues whatsoever with the kinked downtube.

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justwan-naride
0

Thanks for the reply!

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Jotegir
+1 Kos

I'm not sure how many actual numbers of the previous generation 'AF' bikes were sold, I never worked at an IBIS dealer so I have no first hand perspective of their popularity. That said, they were like the #1 recommended online bike in a number of circles for performance/price/support for a long time. Only a few people were brave enough to speak ill of them online (read: Kenny). 

You'd have to think that if they were exceptionally popular (and not just the online bike du jour) we'd see an alloy platform here too.

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Squint
+2 Niels van Kampenhout Abies

I have the Ripmo AF, it's a fantastic bike. Fully expect to see these changes trickle down to the alloy frame next year or so. They aren't a big company and I imagine new frame design takes up a lot of resources, makes sense to do the carbon first. 

Moving the pivot in front of the seat tube is a good move, the current location makes it a mini rock crusher. 

Not sure I see Ibis as a premium brand, the AF seemed well priced for a decent spec. And the company support is good, with a detailed setup guide and easy online parts ordering. Certainly Ibis would be in consideration if I were shopping right now.

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niels@nsmb.com
+2 justwan naride Abies

Good point, the Ripmo AF is decent value with nicely min-max`ed builds. Let's rephrase that the carbon Ripmo sits in the premium price bracket.

And I agree on Ibis providing excellent setup guides!

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cheapondirt
+3 Niels van Kampenhout Kenny 4Runner1

It's not just Niels' preference.

I hold the following truth to be self-evident: A 180mm rotor has no place on a large 29er.

Very appealing bike though!

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cam@nsmb.com
+1 cheapondirt

A minor proviso to the 180mm rule could be; depends on the brakes. 

I have two long travel bikes currently with 180mm rotors. One has Mavens and the other has Hope tech4 E4s. I guess another proviso would be terrain dependent.

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cheapondirt
0

These first and second amendments are welcomed. Tire choice could be a factor as well.

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slyfink
+2 Niels van Kampenhout Cr4w

2025 is a milestone year for me, and my current bike is 9 years old... this bike sits at the top of my wish list. As a heavier individual at 220lbs, my biggest concern with this bike is the light damping philosophy for the shock. would it be too light? I like to charge hard - but with that milestone achievement I have accrued a certain number of injuries that are significantly slowing me down... so I may not be as hard charging as I once was... or I would like to be! anyways... I'm wondering if the damping is too light for a heavy individual trying to charge hard over east coast rox... thoughts on the damping? And while we're on the topic of weight... this is the first I've read about the frame stiffness... any thoughts on how appropriate it would be for a heavy rider? I suppose if Callaghan rode it an enduro race, it should be plenty durable? (I like to transpose hard chargers for heavy riders - I like to think the forces those guys put through a frame are a good proxy for the forces I'd put through the frame, even at a much slower pace)

Also, I'd love to hear more of your thoughts on 35mm rims vs 30mm rims. As a fatbike rider in the winter, I like the turning characteristics of a narrower rim on my summer bike - I'm familiar with, and don't like that vague feeling wide tires bring on a hard surface. So I'm dubious of the wider rims. is it something you were able to adjust to?

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rigidjunkie
+7 Niels van Kampenhout slyfink Jotegir Cr4w Vincent Edwards ohio Mammal

I have not ridden a new Ripmo, BUT as a 200+ pounder I would strongly recommend working with a suspension tuner regardless of what bike you end up buying.  Across the board I find stock tunes to be too light for heavier people.  Most of the time swapping a couple of shims in the shock can make a world of difference and give you the feel that the manufacturer intended.

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niels@nsmb.com
+1 slyfink

I'm relatively light and not a super aggressive rider so it's difficult for me to answer your questions related to damping and stiffness. I generally prefer lighter damping and more compliant frames and wheels. The rear suspension is nice and supple but I found it plenty supportive, it ramps up nicely further in the travel. That's at the soft end of the recommended 25-30% sag range and with the default volume spacer (.4 according to Ibis), so there is room to set it up a less soft and more progressive.

Apparently, Callaghan likes the Ripmo because it's more compliant than the HD6, which probably helps counter fatigue on long hard days racing. He's definitely a harder charger than me!

As for the 35 mm rims, I find the difference with 30 mm noticeable but it's pretty subtle. A bit more comfort and traction, a bit less precise. I could be happy with either but would probably go with 30 mm if I had to choose.

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Kenny
+1 Niels van Kampenhout

Demo for sure. I'm similar weight and would want to try one first. I'm curious as having it in ripmo mode for my local north shore riding but swappable to Ripley mode for Galbraith rides or a bear mountain xc is really compelling. 

That said, and granted it was aluminum, but I got rid of my Ripmo AF because it felt like a toy. Real triangle was not stiff enough. 

In his review of the V3, Jeff Kendall Weed mentions it's not the stiffest frame. He rides harder than me, but he's probably only 150-160lb, so that gives me a little pause. 

I think the carbon are likely stiff enough but I'd want to try. Just a different build philosophy as compared to say Santa Cruz. I really love how stiff their bikes are. Even my aluminum tallboy feel like a brick shithouse and I'll take that feel for an extra pound or two of frame weight, at my size.

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slyfink
0

Interesting you mention JKW and the Tallboy... he released a video today reviewing the new Tallboy. He compares frame stiffness specifically to the Ripmo V3, which turns out to be stiffer. All very interesting!

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Kenny
+1 slyfink

You had me all curious about a JKW tallboy review, but it's Hightower I think (easy to mix up, their bikes are clones). Anyway that's interesting for sure if he felt the ripmo was stiffer, and a good sign!

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Jotegir
+1 Niels van Kampenhout

There's something to be said about system stiffness too. Even if you're on the heavier side, you might find the Ibis a solid option when paired with a stiff fork and wheels. I'm in the ballpark of 220 lbs (that's 100 kg for Niels), ride hard enough, and find that when I've gotten on a bike with a stiff frame, stiff wheels, stiff bars, and a stiff fork... that's too stiff! Looking at my full suspension fleet, none of the frames are particularly renowned for their stiffness but I've paired them with stiff wheels and forks to find results I like. 

So with the right build and a shock tune you might be perfectly happy on the Ripmo.

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Kenny
0

With the AF, the rear triangle would flex and make the rear rotor grind quite badly on the inside of the chainstay. Stiffer wheels made it even worse, but I hear what you're saying.

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Jotegir
0

OK Kenny, usually it's a bit of extra tire-on-stay rub or something, rotor grind is new to me even for flexy bikes! You win!

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justwan-naride
+1 Niels van Kampenhout

On rim width, unless you are dead set on running Maxxis WT models, I wouldn't recommend 35mm rims. Michelin, Schwalbe, Continental, all make their front specific tyres at 2.4 and in my experience this size (some are actually narrower) doesn't play nice with that wide a rim. My wheels are 35mm front, 30mm rear and I've settled on the Assegai as my go-to front. It's a perfect combo but I feel I'm missing out not being able to run other brands without compromising on the profile. I have tried 2.6 but as much as I wanted it to work, it wasn't a good choice for our terrain.

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jt
+2 Niels van Kampenhout Cam McRae

This is the first carbon bike that's really tickled my fancy and has me considering replacing two bikes with one.

Well done, Ibis, well done.

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bullit
+2 Niels van Kampenhout Kenny

Charles Murray rides a Specialized Stumpjumper instead of an Enduro model and the result speak for themselves :)

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Kenny
0

When talking about price, it's also tough to look past the fact that the s works stumpy 15 frame is $500 less than the ripmo.

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4Runner1
0

I’m not sure lots of folks would cross shop those two frames, tho? A linear 4 bar vs DW. It’s not always about $, especially when one has a preference for specific kinematics and feel.

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Kenny
+1 4Runner1

The parallel was Charles Murray is running the stumpy instead of the Enduro, similar to how Callaghan is running the Ripmo instead of HD6, so fairly direct examples of a very similar type of use case, I definitely think a lot of people cross shop based on category/use case, regardless of linkage design. 

I think as bike nerds we think more people are cross shopping linkage designs where really we're probably the minority, but I hear ya. :)

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Abies
+1 Niels van Kampenhout

Looks great. I agree the value might not be there but at the same time bikes are starting to feel settled enough that I'm more comfortable buying once and planning to keep a ride going for 5+ years, whereas for a while there it felt like I could justify an update every 2-3 years. So that matters a bit. And I think Ibis is a trustworthy brand in terms of frame support and build quality. 

Not close to BC but Ibis also makes demos super easy at their Santa Cruz headquarters.

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JSW07
+1 WasatchEnduro

For those that might be interested. Look at the geo of this size medium V3 Ripmo beside the 2019 Yeti Sb130 Lunch Ride, they are ALMOST identical! What’s my point in saying this? Yeti was on to something when they made that SB130 LR and based on geo alone, the SB130 LR is still very relevant apart from aesthetics (which is subjective).

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Kenny
0

Always loved the geo on that thing. But speaking of frames with a poor reputation for flex under heavier riders, that bike is one of poster children, unfortunately.

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JSW07
0

Depends on who you ask I guess. I would bet that most of the ppl making those comments about to much frame flex might have been “armchair engineers”. Watch Jeff Kendall Weed ride that bike and you may agree. He mentions the compliance but he talks about it being a good thing. With that being said, I’m sure heavier riders require a stiffer frame by nature (of that type I personally am not) but I think there are a lot of highly skilled light riders that would say the same thing. With THAT being said, I believe Yeti made that bike compliant for a good reason and I personally think it was build like that for highly skilled riders of all weights.

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