dasmith-pbpoy-4774.jpg
Chasing Fall from the Yukon to British Columbia

Extended Play

Words Cooper Quinn
Photos Dave Smith
Date Apr 23, 2019

“That’s gonna roast some brake pads on the way back down,” said Matt putting his bike on the ground, and looking out down at the valley below. We’d just spent the last 2 hours with our bikes on our backs, slogging up a steep ridgeline trail, wondering how a few of the chutes and corners we’d passed were going to work on the way back down. Dave dropped his camera pack with a dusty thud beside our bikes and took in Bennett Lake in the distance, “Now do you see why we suffered all the way up here?” Oh, right. There was also a view. We sat down to catch our breath and absorb a vista of the Yukon in its best Fall dress.

ds-stock-caribou-grizzly-Yukon-WR1-4545.jpg

Does that look like the Shore to you, Matt?"

ds-stock-caribou-grizzly-Yukon-WR1-4777.jpg

I don't think so and what on Earth did you put in that flask?"

A few weeks earlier we'd been sitting around North Vancouver in the summer heat, covered in dust, sipping some radlers, and hacking down forest fire smoke. The consensus was unanimous: fall is the best season for riding. Spring is muddy, summer is too hot and dusty. We're lucky here on the Shore to be able to ride most of the winter, but its cold and wet. Fall, though? Tacky moist dirt, cool evenings, gorgeous colors, and accessible alpine. But fall is fleeting, and it was still six weeks away.

But did it have to be?

ds-stock-caribou-grizzly-Yukon-WR1-4393.jpg

Two weeks later three of us were eating warm chocolate chip cookies on an Air North flight to the Yukon. Matt Beer (good at bikes), Dave Smith (good at cameras), and myself (good at… using two words when one will do?) were greeted by crisp air on the tarmac. Local beta said we were landing right in the heart of fall, which arrives notably earlier in northern latitudes; instead of waiting for fall, we'd catch up with it.

ds-stock--Yukon-WR1-3236.jpg

The difference between being a landscape photographer and action sports photographer...

ds-stock--Yukon-WR1-3248.jpg

...is whether or not you put action sports in your landscape photo.

Yukon is vast, but you don’t need to get far from the capital, largest city, and main airport in Whitehorse to see what the place is about. Less than three hours from touchdown and tires were on singletrack. We’d swapped sunbaked dusty greens in B.C. for a vibrant colour palette ripped from a Hallmark Hallowe'en card.

ds-stock--Yukon-WR1-3441.jpg

Climbing past the grizzly bears, we were into fun in no time. Alpine ridgeline ripping on Blown Away and Starbucks' Revenge eventually dumped us into the steep, deep loam of Kid Vicious - a trail several years old that wouldn’t withstand three days of Sea to Sky Instagramming. Kid Vicious was so good we forgot the photos. Thanks Contagious Mountain Bike Club, Paul Burbridge, and everyone else who’s volunteered on the trails on this side of Whitehorse!

ds-stock--Yukon-WR1-3422.jpg

Cooper Quinn and Matt Beer on Blown Away in downtown Whitehorse, YT.

We quickly settled into a routine. Late nights filled with beers, hot tubs, and northern lights at Boréale Explorers were conveniently followed by mornings well below freezing that imparted no sense of urgency. Yukon time. Communal breakfast at the lodge, a bit of computer time, and we’d work our way to the trails near Carcross or Whitehorse as things warmed up around lunchtime. Trails were widely varied, rocks, loam, jumps, flow, tech, and the berm Dave wouldn’t shoot. Three days deep, we’d confirmed two hypotheses; fall is best, and Yukon kicks serious ass for bikes.

ds-stock-dream-grizzly-Yukon-WR1-3692.jpg

Catching the tail end of Tourist Season in Carcross meant the coffee shop was still open, but the town and trails were populated mostly by locals. The network in Carcoss has history history much deeper than its mining ruins, and is changing lives.

ds-stock-dream-grizzly-Yukon-WR1-3598.jpg

After a couple hours of hike a bike, don’t forget to have a wee nip and stop and appreciate the view. The snow line would rapidly descend in the wake of our flight home.

Now it was back to reality; late summer in Metro Vancouver. Back to work, back to the grind, and back to… loading up the bikes, and heading north? As fall was coming south, we’d head up to meet it again. Next stop - Cadwallader Range, BC.

ds-stock-2falls-bralorne-WR1-5255.jpg

ds-stock-2falls-bralorne-WR1-5261.jpg

Fuel up, air down, and with the right trucks its a quick trip over the Hurley to Bralorne. B.C.’s terrain is every bit as huge as Yukon if you know where to look, and are willing to get a couple pinstripes on the way.

Riding, shooting, and evening beers around the fire to keep warm. Fall. F*ck yeah. The trails in the Cadwallader are different than their slightly-more-northern cousins in the Chilcotins; instead of all day epic slogs traversing mountain ranges, you can bang out shuttle laps off old forestry and mining roads on trails that bring back memories of the best parts of downhill mountain biking 15 years ago, with modern additions. The low usage means these trails are a time capsule, and despite the rugged fall line nature of some portions they’re in great shape.

The next morning it was apparent we might have issues. A rethink was in order; after standing around drinking coffee and discussing “options” for far too long, we retreated south over the (much whiter) Hurley. The Sunshine Cabin and many of the trails are maintained by the Bridge River Valley Community Association, and the Bralorne Recreation Area - both awesome groups worth your support.

nsmb_2017_gear_review__apparel_7mesh_guardian-9591.jpg

B.C.’s south coast and the North Shore, don’t really experience fall in the same way as other places. We’re a temperate rainforest primarily surrounded by conifers; we get summer and rain. So the three of us rode bikes, and tried to formulate a plan. And came up with nothing.

ds-stock-2018-wr1-cypress-6819.jpg

ds-stock-2018-wr1-cypress-6903.jpg

In one of these sessions, thinking away in the Green Room, it hit us.

ds-stock-2018-wr1-cypress-6794.jpg

You're going riding with Matt and Dave again?" "No! We're going thinking!"

ds_stock_11182017-9836.jpg

ds_stock_11182017-9626.jpg

Why on Earth were we travelling by plane and automobile, searching for the best dirt, the best colours, the best trails? Our backyard is the Shore. Fall isn’t the best; winter is. Rain, fog, dark greens, and all the ISOs. We didn’t need to go anywhere to find the best - it was all in our backyard the whole time. Maybe that’s why we’d latched on to fall - it was just one step closer to where we wanted to be from the summer dust.

ds_stock_11182017-9999.jpg

ds_2018_stock_mattbeer_WR1-6154.jpg

ds-stock-2018-wr1-seymour-3065.jpg

ds_2018_stock_mattbeer_WR1-6202.jpg

We may have become disenchanted during the hottest, driest bits; but is the Shore really the Shore if the roots aren’t greased daily by Mother Nature, and everything isn’t a deep shade of green?

ds_stock_cypress_stephenmatthews-6297.jpg

We’d realized our central thesis was wrong; but that wasn’t a reflection of the quality of fall riding, and definitely not Yukon. It's a result of the bar set by the Shore when its at its deepest, darkest, and wettest.

Thanks to Dustin Adams at We Are One and Jan Sallawitz at Evoc for helping us get there and back again. And thanks to Sylvain Turcotte and Anthony Delorenzo at Boreale Explorers for helping us in between the two.

Comments

cyclotoine
+3 Cooper Quinn Dave Smith Pete Roggeman
cyclotoine  - April 23, 2019, 8:26 a.m.

Great article, great to see my home trails featured. They really are special, but I still love the south coast best for riding. I did a road trip last fall as winter set in up here (many Yukoners do) to ride the Sea to Sky, Vancouver Island, and the Sunshine Coast, hitting spots like Burns Lake and Kamloops along the way.

Reply

cooperquinn
+1 Cr4w
Cooper Quinn  - April 23, 2019, 9:36 a.m.

Having worked in the Yukon for a few years, I love it deeply up there. The terrain, the people, the wildlife. 

But man are we ever spoiled for trails, and nearly endless riding season, here in SW BC.

Reply

xy9ine
+2 Cooper Quinn Dave Smith
Perry Schebel  - April 23, 2019, 8:35 a.m.

great work guys!

Reply

cooperquinn
0
Cooper Quinn  - April 23, 2019, 9:37 a.m.

Thanks Fit-Santa!

Reply

pete@nsmb.com
+2 Cooper Quinn Dave Smith
Pete Roggeman  - April 23, 2019, 10:36 a.m.

Well done, lads. #onlybangers as usual, Dave, and nice work on the words too, Cooper.

Reply

cooperquinn
0
Cooper Quinn  - April 23, 2019, 11:08 a.m.

Reply

cbennett
+1 Cooper Quinn
cbennett  - April 23, 2019, 11:33 a.m.

"Why use many words when few words do trick" - you probably

Reply

cooperquinn
+2 Pete Roggeman cbennett
Cooper Quinn  - April 23, 2019, 2:58 p.m.

Reply

denomerdano
+1 Cooper Quinn
Denomerdano  - April 24, 2019, 6:12 a.m.

well this took long enough....

Which I am glad it did.. 

only bangers top to bottom. 

also thumbs up for not using "the e-bikes of the photog world".....drones..

Can't wait to ride the Sea to Sky in about a week....

Reply

Jotegr
0
Luke Kozakiewicz  - May 1, 2019, 9:14 a.m.

What time of year did you fly  up?

Reply

Please log in to leave a comment.

Trending on NSMB