Editorial | Review
Ditch Your Lock-On Grips
Dan-In-Japan
Long before he moved to Japan, my friend Danniel Graham was a mechanic at Cove Bike, North Vancouver's first mountain bike store. In a shop filled with huge personalities he was affectionately known as 'Bland Dan' and whenever I was there on business he was my favourite wrench to bounce ideas off.
I laid out my grip dilemma to Dan. When they arrived over a decade ago lock-on grips became ubiquitous in the blink of an eye, despite ODI being the only game in town. I loved being able to trust that my grips wouldn't spin on my bar in the rain but none of the grip options were great. My ODI Ruffians felt like rubberized PVC pipe, the Rogues were fatter but barely better and my Ourys were too plump.
I went back to push-on grips on both my personal bikes this summer when the trails were dusty and the sweat was flowing. Day and night.
Dan had this amazing wry smile and it was on display that day. Saying nothing and never looking away, he reached into a drawer, pulled out a small bundle of 22-gauge steel wire and handed it to me.
I remember smiling as he relegated these new fangled lock-on grips with the efficient ferocity of a cornered Luddite. His contention was that locking grips are for the lazy or incompetent. With the added layer of hard plastic between the grip and bar they will never be as comfortable for a given thickness and they're significantly more expensive. Because of carpal tunnel Dan was unable to ride with lock on grips; push ons made mountain biking possible for him.
I've used glued-and-wired Renthal Push-On grips on three different mountain bikes this this year. Photo: Dave Smith
I ran push-on grips for a couple of years after that and between the safety wire and the cheapest hairspray money could buy I never experienced any slippage. The perfect trifecta of thickness, grip and comfort. Then I joined almost everyone else in lazily turning a couple 2.5mm hex screws any time I needed some fresh rubber.
Fast forward to this summer when my three year old found an old rats nest of grip wire in the back of one of my tool boxes. "What's this for papa?" For me it was perfect timing to re-examine where I'd set the comfort bar. Could I handle the extra install time? What about trusting my bike minus that no-slip hex key grip?
And yes, I've had them out in the pissing rain on many occasions. Zero slippage and epic grippage. Photo: Dave Smith
Renthal vs. Renthal
I've long been a fan of Renthal's standard Lock-On grips and more recently I reviewed the aggressive Traction version. Since the Kevlar resin versions of the Push-On and Lock-On grips are so similar it seemed like a great way to get this wheel turning.
Once installed the Push-On grips are immediately more comfortable and conforming. The total 135mm length is 5mm longer overall than the bolted versions but thanks to the absence of locking collars there is actually 25mm more usable grip surface per side. Like both versions of the locking Kelvar grips I've tried, it takes a couple of rides for the grips to show their true traction potential. A few months in and the feel is legendary.
I've previously suggested that Renthal's Lock-On grips should be much longer. The Push-On, with 25mm more usable length per side, does not have that issue.
Glued and ready for safety wire. I have spun grips on long rainy rides and it always happens at the worst possible time. Wiring gives me peace of mind.
The other revelation is that Push-On grips are half the price of Lock-On models. The total cost of install includes some wire and adhesive, but then I'm also due for a fresh 2.5mm and 3mm hex key.
Glue & Safety Wire
Pick a wire gauge and be a dick about it. I'm using 22 gauge wire and I recently replenished my supply by buying a bundle of stainless steel trap wire at a hunting shop. Some folks prefer a slightly thicker wire, generally 20 gauge, but I find it's a pain to work with.
Renthal makes two different grip glues. The regular shown here is 8 USD and the quick bond version is 9 USD.
Whichever glue the secret is to first clean the bar and grip with rubbing alcohol and then apply liberally once everything is dry.
For the purpose of this test I was using four different adhesives (one per grip): Renthal Grip Glue, Renthal Quick Bond Grip Glue, Gorilla Super Glue and cheap hair spray.
I have lots of sweaty and raining rides under my belt with no slippage issues until a recent night ride when the hairspray grip started to shift around in the center. I managed to get it off at home with rubbing alcohol and a zip tie and I've re-installed with the Renthal Quick Bond.
Install wise the Renthal Quick Bond was the best combination of ease of sliding the grip on before it dried and not waiting a day to ride my bike. Even with a bit of wetting on the bar/grip the Gorilla Super Glue dries f***ing fast!
Step 1: Recognize there are infinite opinions on how to do this and go with whatever makes sense for you.
Step 2: Loop the wire around the grip twice and then pull the loops tight together and wind them with pliers.
Step 3: trim off excess wire leaving 1-2cm. Bend at 90-degrees and then push the cut end into the grip.
None of the adhesives are expensive per grip installed and I've also had decent luck using WD40 with some grips, on aluminum bars, although they are an epic pain in the ass to remove after. If you ride carbon bars, Renthal approves their glues for that application. The availability leg-up goes to Gorilla Super Glue since it's in every hardware store.
Caveats & Conclusions
Ride two I had an awkward slow speed sideways fall off a low skinny. Waiting too long to un-clip, I ended up going down with the bike. I put my bar into the ground hard and while the end cap stayed put the grip was pushed up a little bit. It made no difference to performance but it looked crappy. I fixed it at home by re-applying glue around the end of the bar and stretching the grip over it. I'm noting it because it is the sole issue I've had.
During my test period I also had a chance to ride Ergon's GE1 Slim lock-on grips. They're the most comfortable locking grip I've used and a far cry from those early ODI options. Then again they are more than twice as much money as the Renthal Push-On and I find for the initial time investment the performance improvement of the Push-On is worth every second, even compared to the GE1.
The Kevlar Push-On grips are good fresh but, like Renthal's Kevlar Lock-On and Traction locking grips, my on trail experience keeps getting better and better as the grips wear.
With one exception all the controls I have mounted behind the Push-On grips are easily removable without taking grips off and that is definitely a consideration before going down this trail.
Renthal's Push-On Kevlar grips sell for 15 USD. For more information on their grip options and adhesive products please click here.
Comments
fartymarty
6 years, 2 months ago
Update... I really like these grips and have ended up changing my shifters (rear and modded front dropper shifter) to I-spec so I can remove controls without having to remove the grips.
I ended up selling my Ergons as the Renthals are great.
I have done a few wet rides wired and hairsprayed with no real issues apart from minor slippage. I am now trying Renthal grip glue without wire to see how that goes.
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Eric Van Sickle
6 years, 4 months ago
Great article. You have been hitting them out of the park lately.
What is it like to remove them?
Eric
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Thanks Eric - I really appreciate it!
I wouldn't want to do it all the time (for example to experiment with slight differences with grips) and when the grips are worn the most reasonable way to remove them is to cut them off.
Once the grips are removed I don't find peeling off the remaining glue to be a big job. I use rubbing alcohol for the assist.
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fartymarty
6 years, 4 months ago
I get numb hands quite frequently and have carpel tunnel problems in the genes so this maybe something I need to look at in the future.
Andrew, can you post some photos of the bike you are on as it looks interesting.
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taprider
6 years, 4 months ago
Great article Dru, I like how you chew up standard conventions
and to fartymarty
Do you have carpel tunnel or ulnar tunnel problems? The difference is that with ulnar tunnel, its the ring and pinky fingers that go numb. I discovered a fix for ulnar tunnel by rotating my bars back to a more level plane (not upswept like a trials or bmx bike, but not rotated dipping down like a MotoGP/crotch rocket type bike) and putting all the volume spacers in my fork and making it as progressive as possible (moves very easily in the first mm's but ramps up to provide support very quickly).
Plus it can take a year for such nerve damage to repair, and physio and stretching can help
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fartymarty
6 years, 4 months ago
Tapride,
My mum has had her carpel tunnels done and was also having numb / tingling hands so I think I may be getting the same thing. It's most of my fingers but may also be due to poor circulation. The worst is when I get it in the index finger and cant feel the brakes. At the moment it doesn't happen all the time so am keeping an eye on it.
I have my forks stuffed full of tokens, have just lifted the bars to the max (and also lengthened the CS on horiz drops on HT to compensate) so will see how it goes. Thanks for the tip on bar roll. It maybe the next thing I play with and then change grips if that doesn't work.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
As regards the bars if messing around with the tilt helps a little then consider a 12° or 16° bar. I did a review on SQ Lab 30X that's here. Syntace also makes a similar product.
Hans Rey is running a 16° - so even truly talented riders can benefit.
I'd happily run the 12° on anything but the 16° had an obvious multi ride learning curve. Now I go back and forth no problem but I don't 'need' the 16° sweep. Anyone who the 16° solved aggressive numbing issues for could happily ride it anywhere on any bike after adapting to it.
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Rideforlife818
6 years, 4 months ago
Stuffed full of tokens? You thought about adding more PSI? Run more PSI and less low speed compression
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Thank you Rod!
Potential Christmas gift to yourself in an MRP Ramp Control air cartridge? It would let you fine tune the support you're getting without having to teardown your fork to test tokens/half tokens and is even adjustable on a ride so when you're 50% of the way through an epic and getting tired you can make an adjustment.
The thing with RC and tokens is they have a massive effect on bottom out ramp for every small difference they make to mid-stroke ramp. If you get a chance to try a Manitou Mattoc IRT or Ohlins RXF fork both of them can tuned exactly as you describe (initially very plush with the mid-stroke ramp point set as you like) while still getting full travel when you need it.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Hi FM,
The grey and black Marin Rift Zone? Bunch more (Dave Smith) photos coming up with my Manitou Mattoc 29+ review.
The Ti Kona Explosif? There's a few photos in this piece. I haven't taken a whole ton of photos of that bike and I wouldn't dare show up to shoot with Dave on it.
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Kos
6 years, 4 months ago
So true, push-ons FTW.
Like adding some extra plushness to your suspension.
Wolftooth Fatpaws for me, but grips are personal, and not everybody has hands like Bigfoot!
Note to newbies: Key word in Andrew's description of the wire is "stainless". Other wires don't stand up very well to all the twisting.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Yes, I should have noted that re. grip choice - hand size from my Trumpettes to your Bear Paws are going to make a huge difference. Thanks.
I've had okay luck with some galvanized steel wire in the past but stainless is the safe bet. I noticed that Canadian Tire is now only stocking 20-gauge in their hunting section but 22-gauge is readily available on the internet for anyone that doesn't have a hunting shop nearby.
I definitely recommend starting with 22-gauge for anyone that doesn't already have an opinion on wire thickness.
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Joseph Crabtree
6 years, 4 months ago
I've been using LizardSkin North Shore slip ons (great name huh) with monel wire.A bit hard to find but has better elasticity (break resistance) than stainless so it will twist tighter.The grooves in the grips make it easy to hide the twist too.
I just put a set of the Ergon GE1's on and I do like the shape but not as cushy as the NS.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
I've heard of monel wire but didn't realize it came in small gauges. Where do you buy monel wire in small quantities? What gauge are you using?
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Joseph Crabtree
6 years, 4 months ago
I got it at a aircraft supply some time ago.It doesn't have a gauge spec on the roll but would guess about 20-22 gauge.The label says Ormiston monel seizing wire London ,England.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Thanks Joseph,
I'll look into it.
Larrabee
2 years, 9 months ago
Andrew: excellent article.
Monel wire is great although I’ve never found a reasonably priced source of it — not since I persuaded an aircraft mechanic to sell me a part roll of 0.032” monel (20ga) about 45 years ago.
Stainless steel (0.032”) works great on grips. My preference: 2 wraps in 3 places. If the glue ever fails, the grips may move, but not much. And slowly.
I’ve tried inner tube patching cement as Renthal Grip glue seems very, very similar. I think the longevity is comparable.
My Kevlar push-on grips niw need regluing after nearly 2 years.
Hint to remove push-on grips w/o cutting: sharpen a wooden chopstick (ideally bamboo) with a pencil sharpener. Start working that under the grip. When you gain a cm or three, squirt in Windex. Push chopstick in at various o’clock positions, keep the Windex squirting.
Often, the grip will come lose in a minute. A spare pair of old worn grips is better than nothing if the “good” grips are ripped to shreds.
Keep these great tech articles flowing
And THANKS!!!
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Andrew Major
2 years, 9 months ago
Cheers!
My grip wire tool has been an amazing addition but otherwise I'm still here wiring grips.
Thank you for reading.
Poz
6 years, 4 months ago
Great article Andrew. I like your style of picking a (seemingly) simple topic, make a bold statement, and then give a compelling argument.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Thanks Poz - much appreciated.
If you like thinner grips also check out the Sensus Swayze for sure, it's my favourite ODI lock-on so very high on my list of non-locking grips to try.
I have no advice for those that like fatter options.
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Lowcard
6 years, 4 months ago
I did this for years but lately the bars I have been using won't hold a grip no matter what I try.
Pro tip: Buy bmx grips. None of those guys wear gloves, and thus the grips are super soft and comfy, and cheap.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Carbon bar with a really smooth finish?
The Sensus Swayze is very high on my list to try (they're my favourite ODI lock-on option). Any other BMX grips recommend?
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Lornholio
6 years, 4 months ago
I ditched lockons a few years back once all of my controls were the type that didn't require grips to be removed first. Sensus were wore out very quickly for me but ODI Longnecks feel just as good and last a lot longer. I install with isopropyl and use four pieces of wire per grip.
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mike
6 years, 4 months ago
I have been running ESI and Wolftooth silicone fatty grips for 18mths . I did run some lock-on,s for a few rides in between and noticed more hand soreness , Issue I have now is I have too big of a grip and I get some discomfort at times . Next grips will be the same just a size smaller . Think the current ones are 35mm , last ones where 33mm .
I run them on Renthal Carbon bars as well , no throttle grip, on the RF Atlas bars they would spin after a while .
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mrbrett
6 years, 4 months ago
ESI Chunky here too, dry install on the bar with no wire and they aren't moving a mm. Much better than lock-ons for ride quality.
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Jordan Carter
6 years, 4 months ago
I switched in august and love it, cheaper too!
You mentioned that gorilla glue cures fast even with wetting the bar, just so you know gorilla glue, super glue and other similar products cure with humidity/moisture so wetting the bar would make the problem worse
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Hahahaha... I had no idea. I always have dampened surfaces when using those adhesives (not even sure where I learned it - my folks maybe).
Thanks - that will presumably make my life easier in the future!
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awesterner
6 years, 4 months ago
IF you want to go full nerd, 6-8 twists per inch on your little tails ;-)
Nice work!
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Is that gauge dependent?! I always want to go full nerd!
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awesterner
6 years, 4 months ago
Why yes, yes it is!! For example 020 could have up to 14 on electrical connectors. On the flip side, less twists for 032 and 041. If the later is Inconel even 6-8 is very very very (physically) hard to do as it's grabby and breaks easy 8-)
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JT
6 years, 4 months ago
Glad I'm not the only one that's gone away from lock ons. After having slippage issues, I used tubular cement with the same method of install as the tires. No slippage yet in any weather.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
What's your trick for cleaning it off the bar after? It's been a lot of years since I glued a tubular but I seem to recall the removal/rim cleaning process to be a PIA?
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JT
6 years, 4 months ago
TBH I haven't had to yet. Only on the second set of grips and I left the residual glue on, just like with the tires. Guessing denatured alcohol will come into play, just like with the rims. I don't think it'll affect the clear coat on the carbon bar, but I'll let you know when it's time for the third set.
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Larrabee
2 years, 9 months ago
Can’t say I’ve done it but based on other experiences:
• wrap a layer or two of paper towel around the gluey zone.
• dampen with Goo-Gone.
• wrap w/ aluminum foil to keep damp. Leave overnight.
• rub carefully with green 3M kitchen scrub pad if glue is recalcitrant in the morning. Clean cotton rag might be enough. Goo-Gone is excellent stuff!
• final cleanup: don’t be shy about acetone. Wear gloves and careful of flammability.
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Holger Baer
6 years, 4 months ago
Do they say what diameter these have? I can't find any Information about it.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Hi Holger,
I measure them at ~ 28mm diameter w/ my calipers.
Soft rubber grips and really cheap calipers so please front me a small +/- on that.
No official measurement that I see anywhere.
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Holger Baer
6 years, 4 months ago
Thank you for the info, Andrew. Not sure if 28 is to small for me as I’m on 32mm grips right know but I can imagine that push on grips are too soft above 30mm. It eventually is to much material but I’m very curious to try them
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mike
6 years, 4 months ago
Something to consider with grip size is type of gloves used and riding season , I have been having some hand cramping as of late . Yesterday I finally figured it out and what the cause is , it's winter time and I have swapped to my double layer gloves .
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Interesting point. I generally wear single palm gloves year round but of course a double palm or even a big ulner pad would make grips feel thicker.
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Holger Baer
6 years, 4 months ago
thanks for the tip :)
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Check out Oury's classic Mountain Grips or the DH version (same thing with a flange). It's the grip of choice for a couple anti-locking grip riders I know with big mitts. They are 32mm and have perfect channels for wiring.
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Holger Baer
6 years, 4 months ago
sounds peferct. thanks!
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Andy Eunson
6 years, 4 months ago
I have found that I need larger diameter grips for comfort. Skinny grips cause me pain in the palm. I used wires and various push on grips in the old days but I would stretch the grips to the point that water could get in and cause them to slip every two or three months. We had a BC Cup XC race up on Grouse in the 90’s and it was cold and really wet. The Velcro straps on shoes quit after several runs through a particular mud pit and some lost their shoes. Grouse made us download the bikes in the old gondola and I helped unload at the bottom. I’d say nearly every bike had one loose grip and some were missing one. Both my own wired on grips had come loose. I’ll never go back to push on grips. Never. Nor will I buy into the small diameter grips are better bs either.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Grip thickness is entirely personal although anecdotally I see a general correlation between folks with bigger hands liking fatter grips. What are you running? 31mm, 33mm, 35mm?
Apparently there is a new Kyle Strait coming that is the thickness of two Sensus grips stacked on top of each other? Whatever works.
Re. your Grouse story. I wonder what % of those grips were glued on vs. just slid on with an air compressor? Bet the loose and missing ones were all the latter. Moto guys have been gluing grips forever and there isn’t a slippage issue.
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Andy Eunson
6 years, 4 months ago
The fatter of the Ergon GE1. Prior to that I had been using the 32mm Easton grips which worked very well. I wasn’t able to find any or the Raceface ones earlier this year so I tried the Ergon grips. They are so good for me that I don’t even notice them. Like any “worn” component like helmets saddles packs etc, if you don’t notice them in use, that’s good. And the never move and need no glue, tape or wire.
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Geof Harries
6 years, 4 months ago
I use the Chromag Squarewave XL grips which are fat (35mm I believe), sticky and soft. No glue or wires required.
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Lowcard
6 years, 4 months ago
When I had my bmx shop, EVERY bmx’er used WD40 for sticking grips on. I had my doubts but it does work well
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Mtn_Bike_Mayor
6 years, 4 months ago
Ditch the hairspray or glue and safety wire and just run golf club grip tape.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Interesting. Once the Golf Club grip tape is on can you just get the push-on grip over it with an air compressor or are you using something else to lubricate the process?
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Lowcard
6 years, 4 months ago
They use a solvent that temporarily lubes then activates the glue. Not sure of the type, but I’m sure its easily sourced.
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Lowcard
6 years, 4 months ago
Now that ODI has a decent lock on, the Elite Pro, then that’s all I use. They feel similar to a standard grip and are really comfy gloveless.
Another tip: ATV grips are sometimes a good choice for mtb’s. Both grips are the same diameter, and you can often get a comfy waffle pattern. And of course, cheap AF.
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chrischris
6 years, 4 months ago
I have big palms, I can hold and move around a basket ball with one hand.
My last bike came with Ergon GE1 (about 28mm Inside and 30mm outside diameter) and were too thin.
I tried then ESI extra chunky(about 34mm diameter) and vibration damping and diameter were perfect but they felt too "vague".
Next were Odi Rogues on a friend's bike, I think something around 33mm. But they just did not feel right.
Then at a demo day I tried a Lapierre and the stock grips were amazing, You can find those on Lapierre's site at 17EUR (grips BY HERRMANS). I was sure they got them from another company and traced them to Herrmans Rib Lock DD35 and got some from Amazon.de at 10EUR....free delivery. They got something like 33mm diameter and are lock-ons. Diameter and compound are important but I think there is a special thing about bladed grips. Many here mentioned ODI Sensus and Longneck or BMX grips....they are all bladed type. I think the blades are good for small vibration damping but the small size of the blades don't allow them to feel "vague" wile riding. If you try the Herrmanns just consider grip in wet without gloves is really bad.
I was reading a lot of good things about revgrips but I considered were too expensive to give them a try.
I might try a pair of DMR Brendog one day.
Off-topic a little, related to hand fatigue to me the biggest difference I felt though was not from the grips but from the tires. Started with Conti Baron Project and went to Magic Mary VertStar... night and day.One day I will ditch the air for coil and I am sure that will make the biggest difference of all (I've seen the difference between air and coil in the case of rear shocks).
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mike
6 years, 4 months ago
just noticed you used 70% alcohol , I had a industry guy tell me always use 100% and the mixed can have a paraffin wax in it that can can adhering issues .
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Interesting. Not something I’ve experienced or heard of but I’ll look into it.
Thanks!
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danielshiels
6 years, 4 months ago
I always used these before going over to ergon ge1s but have since switched to dmr deathgrips that have a lock on the inner collar, no internal plastic tube so they're nice and absorbant and the rubber core tapers enough you have to hammer them on. They're really good, haven't slipped in British conditions and have good damping. They're also super cheap so a good option
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Thanks, I will check those out if I have a chance!
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Rideforlife818
6 years, 4 months ago
I can't believe I've never seen this done before....oh wait been riding Moto for 20 years this is nothing new. I'll stick to boring old lock-on grips. Takes 2 mins to install, doesn't slip, and the only tool I need is a 2.5 Allen. No need for an air compressor, hair spray, or wire. But if it's "Enduro approved" I might have to do it!
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DMRDave
6 years, 4 months ago
Another great useful article, thanks.
I ave generally stuck (pun!) with push on grips as they are longer, as I have large hands and find that lock on's are always too short. I've used bmx grips in the past as they are long.
fixing wise, a bit of spinning dosn't bother me but with small zip ties and some GT85 underneath they stay put fairly well and are easy to remove (compared to gluing them).
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Thanks Dave!
Contradicting myself I suppose, but Sensus Swayze lock-ons are pretty awesome (and long).
I had to look up GT85. I've know lots of guys (as Wayne noted) who used straight up WD-40 to put grips on with great results. The GT85 has Teflon in it so maybe straight WD-40 would be the best bet?
I've used WD-40 in the past myself but wasn't sure if it would do anything to the carbon bar so didn't include it in the test.
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Maximum Radness
6 years, 4 months ago
nsmb has always been a deep trove of nerd-knowledge, but this one is special.
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
Thank you!
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Ac
6 years, 4 months ago
I see you are using Renthal flanged grips on a single speed. Do these flanged grips play well with shifters?
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Andrew Major
6 years, 4 months ago
On my dual FS bike I was using the same grip (black) with a GX shifter with zero issues. The flanges are small.
If it was an issue I’d just trim the flange where it was an impediment. Can’t think of a shifter or Dropper remote that would be an issue though.
I’m currently running a set of (much fatter) Race Face Chester grips on that bike and the flanges are ‘Uge. I ended up cutting 1/3 of the shifter side flange off.
The Chester actually has cut guides (flange divided into three pieces of pie) for exactly that reason.
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fartymarty
6 years, 4 months ago
I've just ordered some kevlar Rentals and 22 gauge SS wire and am going to give this a go.
Best case my used Ergons go on ebay and I recoup all costs, worst case I have spent £12...
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Endur-Bro
5 years, 7 months ago
Will brass snare wire work to tie push on grips to a bar?
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Larrabee
2 years, 9 months ago
Try it. Twist not too tightly, then pull the twisted part FIRMLY away from the grip. Especially if you you wrap twice (2 turns around grip), you’ll create a section of untwisted wire near the grip.
Carefully twist again to “wind up” the untwisted section.
Repeat until the wires have sunk into the grip a little bit. Or until the wires break. Brass isn’t nearly as strong as stainless steel, so go easy. Take 2: you’ll know to stop sooner. Wire in 3 or 4 places if your wire isn’t too strong
Twist, pull, repeat. It’s the pulling that allows good tension w/o breaking the wires. Twisting takes up the slack and “holds” the tension you’ve created.
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