Burgtec Josh Bryceland Ride High Handlebar (+ other bits)

Words Dave Tolnai
Photos Deniz Merdano
Date Jul 7, 2021
Reading time

As I get older, I notice stranger and stranger things about my body. For example, my elbows are pretty weird. They’re like little spears attached to the mid-point of my arms. Were they always this way? Have they gotten weirder? Why do they hurt so much when I bump them on things?

My wrists are pretty weird, as well. They look relatively normal, other than being quite skinny. But they kind of suck, and I find that it’s really easy to make them hurt if my bars are too wide or if there isn’t enough of a bend.

My back sucks too. Whenever I get off my bike, it takes a solid second or two of conscious straightening. I have to throw some solid momentum into my shoulders to bring the rest of my body in line, and then I can start walking again like normal.

This has led to a bit of a journey to discover riding positions that make my body feel less bad. Certain bikes and bars are worse than others. Starting out, the Ibis Ripmo that I recently tested was a fairly egregious example. It had a stubby little steerer tube that only had enough room for one teensy, tiny little spacer. The bar felt like the stated 9-degree bend was more of an aspiration than an actuality. This caused my back to ache and my wrists to feel like crap.

Things got a bit better once I swapped in a Renthal cockpit and added a cheater spacer under the stem, but it still wasn't optimal. I longed for more height out of the front end, as well as a bar with a bit more sweep. I started hunting for a handlebar capable of giving me both of those things, and was pretty happy when Burgtec announced the new Josh Bryceland signature alloy ride high handlebar. I was even happier when they agreed to send one to me, and when they were nice enough to throw into the box a pair of the Greg Minnaar signature grips (so many signatures!) and a 42.5mm version of their Enduro stem.


It's a nice little piece, but the highly angled hardware and dual bands require a tiny bit of concentration

Enduro Mark 3 Stem - £74.99

We’ll start with the stem because there’s generally not a lot you can say about a stem once it’s installed. It’s available in 35, 42.5 or 50 mm lengths. It’s forged and machined and does exactly what a stem should do.

I’m on the fence a bit about the dual band style stem clamps. Renthal has something similar, but I prefer their no-gap-on-one-side-of-the-clamp design. Juggling two different pieces, and keeping all the gaps relatively equal isn’t the hardest thing in the world, but it is one more thing you have to worry about. Once you get it all buttoned up though, it does look quite nice.


Here's a picture of some grips.

Greg Minnaar Signatrue Bartender Pro Grip - £16.66

I like the Lizard Skins grips that come stock on the Ibis. The diamond pattern with the teeth pointing in alternating directions does a really great job of holding on to your hands. I’ve come to enjoy them enough that I may just send the Ripmo back gripless, or with some rudimentary grips fashioned out of gorilla tape. The Minnaar grips are up against it, right from the start.

Compared to the Lizard Skins, the Burgtecs are a bit chunkier. The stated diameter is actually smaller (31.5mm compared to 32mm for the Lizard Skins), but the ribbed pattern make them feel more voluminous, and a bit softer. I enjoy the squishiness.

Burgtec has done a fine job on their clamps. They’re wider than what most companies offer, and hold on to things about as well as any other clamp I’ve come across. I can’t imagine they’re going anywhere.

Grip was good with gloves. I tend to climb gloveless, and I found that they got a bit slippery by the top of a climb on a hot day. Throw your gloves on though, and things are fine. Gloveless riders may want to try the new super soft compound version.

Josh Bryceland Signature Alloy Ride High Handlebar - £58.33

Handlebar hunting in this day and age is a tough sport! Everybody seems to be cranking out the same 25mm rise, 8-degree sweep, 5-degree up handlebar. There are options, if you’re looking for something more in one category or another, but it seems there aren’t many companies willing to tinker with two variables at the same time.

Now, I hear you. 9 degrees isn’t much different than 8 degrees of sweep. But on a percentage basis, holy cow! I’ll take it, thank-you very much. We’re not setting the world on fire here with backsweep, but every little bit helps, at this point.

Burgtec takes a more adventurous path with rise, making this bar available with either 38mm or 50mm of rise. I hmmm’d and hawww’d a bit before deciding to throw down on the full pull, 50mm version.

I attempted to take detailed measurements before and after mounting, but I didn’t do a very good job of that. With the 2 spacers removed and the stem slammed, the Burgtec set-up felt about 1 spacer higher than the Renthal system it replaced (35mm stem, 25mm rise bar). Looking at the photos, it’s probably more.

Overall, I wound up with a good chunk more actual stack and reach, compared to both the stock and the Renthal set-up. This did feel quite different at the start of my first ride. It actually felt like I was steering from further back on the bike, if anything, which shows you just how counterintuitive this whole steering thing can be. By halfway through the first ride, everything felt normal.

Overall, I’m super happy with the options this bar has opened up for me. I’m so used to running max spacers on any test bike that shows up that I’m pumped to be able to play around a bit with my bar height. I’ve cut the bars down to 780mm, but I may wind up taking another 10mm off each side. It’s amazing how much difference a few degrees and a few millimeters can make to your wrist angle when you’re riding. I’m still not quite where I want things to be. I’m not the only one to say this, I know, but I wholeheartedly encourage everybody out there to play around a bit with their control options. My body is happier when I ignore what others are up to and pay attention to my own needs. I used to suffer through some pretty terrible set-ups due to laziness and guilt from cutting down a brand new set of handlebars on a bike that I don’t own. From now on, there’s a good chance this Burgtec set-up will be hitting my test bikes even before the first ride.

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+1 Tremeer023
Deniz Merdano  - July 6, 2021, 9:59 p.m.

Higher Bars > Higher Stems! 

These look so natural on the Ibis. I think i noticed them when we were shooting, but I really notice them now!


+3 Tremeer023 AJ Barlas Hoz
psyguy  - July 6, 2021, 10:15 p.m.

I'm all for high rise bars. Preserve your reach and look good doing it. I run a 50 rise on the trail bike and I'm considering a 60 for the DH bike.


-17 Dude@ Andy Eunson Dogl0rd Tremeer023 nothingfuture Geof Harries Muesliman Ethan Nishimura Joseph Crabtree goose8 psyguy JVP mrbrett theaeriopagite Ripbro Konrad pg NotMeAtAll DarioD Angu58 thegoodghosts el_jefe bushtrucker
cxfahrer  - July 6, 2021, 11:26 p.m.

If your body hurts, do some Yoga first before buying things. 

This high riser bar looks ridicolous! And no, it does not preserve the reach or the theoretical  length of the stem or whatever you like. You cant change geometry in one direction and keep it in the other.


+13 Lu Kz Ethan Nishimura Cr4w Andy Eunson AJ Barlas Pete Roggeman goose8 Zero-cool theaeriopagite NotMeAtAll el_jefe bushtrucker Hoz
Tjaard Breeuwer  - July 7, 2021, 7:11 a.m.

Incorrect on taking care of your body (PT, yoga, strength and mobility training etc) before adjusting your bike.

First of all, some (most for short or tall people) bikes are truly set up very wrong. Using an amazingly strong and flexible body to adapt to this is not the way to go.

Second, even if your bike fit is ‘good’ for someone with good strength, mobility and range of motion, if you don’t have that, you still need to adjust your bike at this time, so you don’t hurt.

Bike fit is instantaneous. Body work takes a fair amount of time.

If you do the body work, and your body changes, then it’s time to revisit your fit and maybe (but often not) adjust back to what you had before, but in the meantime, fit your bike to the body you have now.

You are of course correct that a higher rise bar does not offer a different position than a lower rise bar with a theoretical stem that provides the same vertical and horizontal placement.

The reason to use a high rise bar is that stems are so short these days, even very high angle stems don’t provide much rise, so you don’t have that option.

It would be nicer if bike brands specced decent stack heights on their XL and XXL frames, but for aesthetics (I assume) they don’t.

It’s weird when the saddle height on an XXL frame is 6” higher than on size S, but the headtube is only 1 or 2” taller.


+8 Tjaard Breeuwer AJ Barlas Pete Roggeman nothingfuture Zero-cool mrbrett pg Hoz
Cr4w  - July 7, 2021, 8:44 a.m.

Imagine being a bike brand and opting for good visual on XL and XXL frames instead of designing them for the intended rider. Pro tip: XL and XXL frames look weird no matter what you do so they may as well fit right. Jeez. XL head tubes should be 130mm and XXL should be 140mm minimum.


+4 Andrew Major Tjaard Breeuwer 4Runner1 Hoz
Perry Schebel  - July 7, 2021, 9:48 a.m.

this. though (imo) a proportional head tube length looks a hell of a lot better than a big stack of headset spacers.


+1 Hoz
nothingfuture  - July 7, 2021, 11:25 a.m.

You know, when I was talking with the builder of my new hardtail frame (made for East Coast janky slow speed technical) and he proposed a 180mm head tube, I was worried. I'm 6'1" (1.8542m) with an ape index, and the stack was 666mm.

You know what? Totally works. Bike kicks ass.

I'd come up in the era of long + low = good, but that's not a truth anymore, and this really opened my eyes to that.


+3 nothingfuture Paul Lindsay Hoz
olaa  - July 8, 2021, 3:40 a.m.

Style points for the 666 stack height :)


Steven Hambleton  - July 7, 2021, 2:58 p.m.

Banshee have designed the Paradox perfectly with a nice high stack. That said, I ride an XL size Ragley Big Al which is only has 16mm less stack but I run a Chromag FU50 bar and this suits me really well.


+2 Tremeer023 Konrad
banj  - July 7, 2021, 9:57 a.m.

Reach is a horizontal dimension.  Bar rise is a vertical dimension.  If you only change you bar the effective reach doesn't change.  However with the higher rise bar you can remove spacer below your stem which increases the effective reach.


+3 psyguy AJ Barlas thegoodghosts el_jefe Hoz Suns_PSD NotMeAtAll
Deniz Merdano  - July 7, 2021, 10:02 a.m.

This would be true if the head angles of the bikes were 90°

As the cockpit height increases, the effective reach decreases...


+1 Konrad
Sun Hester  - July 7, 2021, 10:58 a.m.

If you keep your bars straight up and not rolled back, there is no effect on effective Reach if no additional spacers are added under the stem.


+1 Tjaard Breeuwer
ackshunW  - July 7, 2021, 11:49 a.m.

If the rise goes 90 degrees to the ground vertically, that’s adding “effective stem length” as well — compared to a lower rise bar.


0 Dogl0rd thegoodghosts
banj  - July 7, 2021, 11:50 a.m.


delusional  - July 7, 2021, 1:16 p.m.

This seems to largely be a confusion about what we actually mean by effective reach? Is effective reach the vertical distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the grips? Or is it the portion of that distance that occurs between the centre of the bottom bracket and the centre of the steerer tube? In the case of the former, adding rise doesn't change the effective reach. In the case of the latter it seems to shift effective reach to effective stem length.

That, of course, relies on measuring effective stem length at the height of the centre of the grips not at the stem clamp point. I think that makes the most sense here, but I'm no engineer.

It seems like most of these measurements are probably useful though, and the major issue we have is around terminology once we're discussing bikes-as-ridden rather than frames-as-sold?


+2 Tjaard Breeuwer delusional
Dave Tolnai  - July 7, 2021, 4:11 p.m.

Fair point.  I was thinking about this as I wrote this.  How I meant it:

- Reach - The standard form of measurement spat out by bike companies

- Effective Reach - The actual distance we are reaching to the handlebar

There's a tremendous amount of variables to effective reach.  Stem length, stem rise, spacers, bar sweep, bar rise, etc.  So, all I meant when speaking about an "increase in effective reach" was that the bars got further away from me.  Same argument for Effective Stack, but I think that one is probably easier to nail down.


delusional  - July 8, 2021, 11:10 a.m.

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't mean to dig at the article at all---it definitely made sense in context there--as much as respond to discussion here. It seems this is a debate that comes up every time we talk about bar height and reach with arguments around whether or not any particular setup is preserving reach or not, and I'm always a little confused about what the right answer is. Writing this out helped me think through what's going on!

+2 JVP Hoz
fartymarty  - July 7, 2021, 10:47 a.m.

Depends on your bar roll.  If you roll them back it decreases reach.


+3 AndrewR ackshunW Hoz
JVP  - July 7, 2021, 2:09 p.m.

Yup. I've always wondered what's the "best" way to position grips in relation to the center of the steerer tube axis. I roll my bars back for more sweep, and therefore run a longer 50mm stem to keep the steering from getting weird.

To keep my setups consistent, I run a string from end of grip to grip so I can see how it lines up with steerer. I find I like this string ~10mm forward of center of steer tube. 

It feels fine, so I'm probably overthinking it, but I started wondering about it when I went to more sweep due to sore elbow. Dark art, this.


+14 theaeriopagite mrbrett Velocipedestrian Tjaard Breeuwer psyguy DadStillRides Grif Dustin McLachlan Mammal nothingfuture Greg Bly Paul Lindsay thegoodghosts Hoz
Dave Tolnai  - July 7, 2021, 4:20 p.m.

I've got to admit that I try to not let the comments bug me, but this one did.

First of all, there's some poetic license here, in this article.  Am I getting older?  Yes.  Does bad fit make my body feel worse?  Yes.  Could I be stronger and in better shape?  Absolutely.

Honestly though, I have no time for this scolding that gets handed out by people about how we should all be in better shape for our riding.  You know what?  I just like to go out and ride my bike.  Would I ride better if I spent a few hours in the gym each week?  Probably.  You know what I'd rather do with that time?  Yep...ride my bike.

This needs to be a sport for all body types and all fitness levels.  We should be pumped that people are just out there riding their bikes, and if you can spend 100 bucks on a handlebar to make that more comfortable I can't really think of too many better places to spend that money on your bike.

Lastly, don't judge what other people need to make their bike work for them.  Tall people do not have the same needs as shorter people.  Bikes and bike parts are generally not designed for the fringes.  I'm learning to worry less about how things look, and worry more about how they feel.  I think the article Andrew wrote a few months back about the Answer bar does a great job of explaining this as well (and was a bit of motivation to head down this path).  I think flat bars look stupid, and I'm proudly going to rock a high rise bar from now on.  Probably.

As well, did you edit your comment?  I feel like the way it reads now makes me a bit less mad than it did before.


AndrewR  - July 7, 2021, 8:26 p.m.

I think you should give this one a try too and write up a report: https://whiskyparts.co/handlebars/milhouse-bar#/


cornedbeef  - July 6, 2021, 11:38 p.m.

That sucks your Ripmo test bike came with a steerer cut waaay too short- considering Ibis usually sends their boxed bikes with uncut steer tubes.

Otherwise, your article will be quite useful for anyone unfortunate enough to buy a bike from someone inspired by professional road cyclists that slam their stems.


+1 Tjaard Breeuwer
Pete Roggeman  - July 7, 2021, 10:01 a.m.

Before we jump on Ibis about this, remember that sometimes it's a bit different with media/test bikes than consumer bikes. It's possible Dave was sent a bike that had already been used for a photoshoot, demo day with a retailer or distributor, etc...I would assume that Ibis, like other manufacturers, send consumer bikes out with uncut steerers.


Mammal  - July 7, 2021, 10:58 a.m.

Yes, Ibis sends them uncut to customers. My comfort zone was with 17mm of spacers under my stem, installed two up top for future adjustment after cut off a good 15mm from the steerer.


+2 Tjaard Breeuwer Pete Roggeman
Dave Tolnai  - July 7, 2021, 3:56 p.m.

This is a good point Pete, and something I hadn't really thought about.  I just flew into a "why isn't my bike perfect!" rage.  It did seem a bit weird that they had only left room for one spacer.


Ceecee  - July 8, 2021, 11 a.m.

But a slammed stem is needed to minmax one's sizing/geometry. Paired with a riser, it provides the most leverage, the most reach--possibly leading to a smaller frame size--and the least steerer weight. Another way to increase stack is to minimize saddle topout


+1 Allen Lloyd
WalrusRider  - July 7, 2021, 4:31 a.m.

I’m all about the high rise bars on my trail bike. I’ve been running a 40mm rise Renthal bar for a few years now and will never go back to using a huge stack of spacers. Fortunately bikes seem to be having longer head tubes these days which is also helping things. If I ever get a Knolly I’ll probably need one of these 50mm rise bars.


+1 pg
Tremeer023  - July 7, 2021, 4:49 a.m.

Switched to a 70mm riser (12 deg backsweep) about a year ago with inverted Apex stem slammed (5mm spacer only so the stem clears the upper headset cup).  My bike has a low stack height but 50mm was my preferred bar height previously.  

I remember the flat bar trend years ago, but it always seemed wrong to me on bikes designed to be jumped and thrown around.  Makes more sense for xc I guess.


Ceecee  - July 9, 2021, 5:04 p.m.

According to the list below--which I thought I'd never use--that would be Milhouse, which is now listed at 16d backsweep, 825mm width. 60mm -6d Apex bolted to a 180mm 38 on a Medium Slayer 27.5 for 188cm rider? Chucker's delight and flat corner vacuum


Tremeer023  - July 11, 2021, 4:10 a.m.

I've actually got an Ergotec bar (not on list below).  Found after a lengthy Internet search for 12 deg backsweep bars with high rise.  I've since tried to buy a 45mm SQ Lab in alu but they were out of stock last time I checked.


+1 Tremeer023
Ceecee  - July 11, 2021, 6:38 a.m.

I see it; thanks. Ergotec weirdly local outfit that's been around--bar Humpert since 1918. What is it about Germans and ergonomics? You're leaving out the more interesting part. Cheers


Tjaard Breeuwer  - July 7, 2021, 6:55 a.m.

I always thought the separate left and right bar clamps on stems were there to allow easier, safer tightening. You can tighten one band at a time, only minding two gaps, and have no risk of angling the faceplate into the bar, like you would if you got left-right gaps wrong on a traditional, single piece face place stem.


Dave Tolnai  - July 7, 2021, 4:08 p.m.

Apologies if I get this wrong.  It's been a while since I wrapped my head around degrees of freedom.

First, I didn't really want to leave the impression that this was a big problem in the review, just that it was different.

Next, I must say that I don't think I've ever really struggled with a single faceplate system on a stem.  I certainly have never damaged a bar with one.  I cracked a Thomson faceplate once, but that was probably my fault.

What's a bit strange about the Burgtec system is that if you look at most stems, the top and bottom bolts run parallel to one another.  This allows for one axis of movement for your faceplate (in and out, parallel to the bolts).  There are probably exceptions to this rule, but the Burgtec seems particularly extreme.

If you look at the Burgtec system, the bolts are at a fairly substantial angle to one another.  In essence, there is really only one position for your faceplate to be in, and it only allows for very limited amounts of movement from that position.  In that sense, it feels "over-constrained".  There's no free axis of movement with the bolts in place.  I guess there are two ways of looking at this:

- One, the faceplate is going to naturally go to the right position because that's the only one where it sits comfortably

- Two, if you don't get it all lined up perfectly, (or if the tolerances are off) there's a chance you're putting some weird loading into something

Again, it's not a huge deal, it's just not what I'm used to dealing with.  Once you have it all lined up, it's fine.  In my mind, it seems a bit easier to just have one part to worry about, and not two.  And if you are going to have two, it seems a bit easier to have something like the Renthal system where you have no gap on the bottom and a gap on the top.

A mechanical designer could probably tear everything that I've said here to shreds, but there is (probably) no arguing that what they've done here is different than what most do.  It felt worth a comment.


Tjaard Breeuwer  - July 7, 2021, 7:08 p.m.

Aha. I misunderstood. I thought you meant the separate bands increased the chances of misaligning/angling them, while I had ugh the opposite.

I can see what you mean about the bolt angle.


Ripbro  - July 7, 2021, 7:44 a.m.

Too bad about your ripmos steer tube length. The Ibis design philosophy seems to be allowing shorter people to ride larger bikes, with swooping top tubes, short seat tube lengths, but they need longer head tubes on the larger sizes. I’m running several spacers under a chromag 40mm rise bar. Made a world of difference in comfort. I’m 6’ and riding a large. Looks a bit wonky but runs great.



doodersonmcbroseph  - July 7, 2021, 8:33 a.m.

I think there are an fair number of choices for 50mm rise considering it's current un-coolness.

I just bought the Title AH1 50mm rise bars. I was going to go with the ENVE bars as they are carbon and may provide some extra compliance but there is no guarantee of that and they were double the price. I am replacing a weareone 'da package' which is sad, but I want more rise!

Other bars to consider:

ENVE M9 Composite bars 50mm rise

Deity Highside 50mm

Spank Spike 50mm (Various versions)

Chromag FU50


+1 JVP
Tjaard Breeuwer  - July 7, 2021, 7:09 p.m.

And 45mm from SQlabs, although it didn’t seem 10mm taller than my previous 35mm Syntace.


JVP  - July 9, 2021, 4:03 p.m.

Not sure how SQ measures things, but a buddy just got a "45mm" rise SQ bar, and they look like less rise than my 38mm rise Deity bar. Going to have to a measure them to find out. I've only got a 5mm spacer to move from up top, but I really want that sweep.


DadStillRides  - July 7, 2021, 10:28 p.m.

FWIW, enve seem do a great job designing compliance into their bars. I had always scoffed at their prices, but after riding a coworker's bike with the enve dh bars, I understood the value proposition. They are expensive, but they are also the most comfortable bar I've ridden. I later toured their facility when I worked down the street (albeit a decade ago), and there was some shade thrown on companies switching to the 35mm clamp and putting out handlebars that are way too stiff. They put a lot of effort into getting the perfect flex before it was an aspect many riders considered, and I doubt they've deviated on that.


doodersonmcbroseph  - July 13, 2021, 9:12 a.m.

Good to know, I have never ridden their stuff. If I start having any wrist problems I will probably go that direction. I just thought I would throw the dollars at a company closer to home again. The Title bar is a perfect fit at the moment so at least the experiment was a success!


+1 Hoz
Hollytron  - July 7, 2021, 6:21 p.m.

I have found....tall bar make bike ride good.


+3 cheapondirt Tremeer023 DarioD
AndrewR  - July 7, 2021, 8:29 p.m.

For the bar nerds ( and no I will never recommend a 35 mm handle bar) 

31.8 mm diameter 7º back sweep

Renthal Fatbar 800 mm 10/ 20/ 30/ 40 mm rise

Renthal Fatbar Carbon 800 mm 10/ 20/ 30/ 40 mm rise

Reverse Components Base 790 mm 18 mm rise

Reverse Components Nico Vink 810 mm 18/ 35/ 48 mm rise

SQ-Lab 30X Fabio Wibmer Carbon 800 mm 25 mm rise

31.8 mm diameter 8º back sweep

Answer Pro Taper Carbon 810 mm 0/ 25/ 50 mm

Answer Pro Taper Carbon 750 mm 0/ 12.7/ 25.4 mm 

Answer Pro Taper 810 mm 0/ 25/ 50 mm

Answer Pro Taper 750 mm 0/ 12.7/ 25.4 mm

Chromag OSX 800 mm 25 mm rise

Chromag FU40 800 mm 40 mm rise

Chromag FU50 800 mm 50 mm rise

ENVE M9 (Carbon) 810 mm 30/ 50 mm rise

Loaded Precision AmX 790 mm 25 mm rise

Loaded Precision AmX Carbon 790 mm 25 mm rise

Newmen Advanced SL (Carbon) 760 mm 10/ 25 mm rise

Newmen Advanced (Carbon) 800 mm 10/ 25/ 40 mm rise

Newmen Evolution SL 800mm 10/ 25/ 40 mm rise

Race face SixC (Carbon) 785 mm 20 mm rise

Spank Spike 800 Vibrocore 15/ 30/ 50 mm rise

Spank Oozy trail 780 Vibrocore 15/ 25 mm rise

Spank Spoon 800 20/ 40/ 60/ 75 mm rise

Spank Spike 777 FR Bearclaw 15/ 30/ 50 mm rise

Syntace Vector Carbon SL High 780 mm 10/ 20/ 35 mm rise

Syntace Vector 7075 780 mm 10/ 20 mm rise

Thomson Titanium 800 mm 15 mm rise

31.8 mm diameter 9º back sweep

Deity Black label 800 mm 15/ 25/ 38 mm rise

Deity Sky line 787 mm 15/ 25 mm rise

Deity High side 760 mm 50/ 80 mm rise

ENVE M5 (Carbon) 760 mm +/- 5 mm rise

ENVE M6 (Carbon) 780 mm 7/ 25 mm rise

Chromag Cutlass (Carbon) 780 mm 25/ 35 mm rise

PRO FRS 800 mm 20/ 40 mm rise

PRO Koryak Riser 800 mm 20 mm rise

Raceface Chester 740 mm 25.4 mm rise

Reverse Components Carbon 750 mm 25 mm rise

Reverse Components Carbon 790 mm 10/ 25 mm rise

Reverse Components Carbon DH 810 mm 25 mm rise

Reverse Components Deviant 730 mm 76 mm rise

Reverse Components Lead 770 mm 25 mm rise

Reverse Components Lucas Knopf 770 mm 25 mm rise

Reverse Components Tracer XC (Carbon) 760 mm 15 mm rise

Reverse Components Triple X 820 mm 13 mm rise

Ritchey WCS Rizer 760 mm 20/ 30 mm rise

Ritchey WCS Carbon Rizer 740 mm 15 mm rise

SQ-Lab 30X Ltd Camo (Carbon) 780 mm 30 mm rise

Whisky No 9 (Carbon) 720/ 760/ 800/ 840 mm 25 mm rise

31.8 mm diameter 10º back sweep

PNW Range 780 mm 30 mm rise

TCI Carbon DH 810 mm 25 mm rise

31.8 mm diameter 12º back sweep

Reverse Components E-Element Ergo 770 mm 25/ 40 mm rise

SQ-Lab 30X 780 mm 15/ 30/ 45 mm rise

SQ-Lab 30X Carbon 780 mm 15/ 30/ 45 mm rise

Syntace Vector Carbon SL High 780 mm 10/ 20/ 35 mm rise

Syntace Vector 7075 780 mm 10/ 20 mm rise

31.8 mm diameter 16º back sweep

SQ-Lab 30X 780 mm 15/ 30/ 45 mm rise

SQ-Lab 30X Carbon 780 mm 15/ 30/ 45 mm rise

Whisky Millhouse 825 mm 70 mm rise


Dave Tolnai  - July 8, 2021, 6:04 p.m.

This is amazing! And reminds me that I think I neglected to state the diameter of the bar and stem.


DarioD  - July 9, 2021, 2:32 p.m.

Another worthy add: https://huntercycles.bigcartel.com/product/hunter-smooth-move-high-rise-handlebars -or- https://huntercycles.bigcartel.com/product/hunter-smooth-move-low-rise-handlebar

I'm on the "low rise" currently, and the sweet feels pretty great once you get the roll dialed. This is on a 35mm stem, Transition Sentinel so factor long reach and decent stack height into that.


Zero-cool  - July 8, 2021, 7:05 a.m.

I do wonder if I should get rid of all the spacers under my stem and get higher bars when I eventually replace my Fatbars  but then I’d need a new stem (they gotta match). Maybe once the kids are a bit older snd I DT to ride more


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