rimpact
First Impressions

Bracing for (R)impact

Reading time

It is clearly evident when taking a stroll through the Rimpact website that this is a business with a very specific focus. The UK company offers three very different products that are also very similarly aligned; tire inserts, tuned mass dampers, and the chain damper under review here. Rimpact’s business, then, is the business of damping. Not suspension damping in the way that most of us understand the word, but ride damping.

The idea of ride damping is to subdue harshness that is transmitted outside of a bike’s suspension system. Tire inserts change the characteristic of the tire’s air chamber and add a level of cushion and damping. Tuned mass dampers are used to absorb vibrations in everything from buildings to F1 cars, and with a mountain bike are claimed to defuse compression spikes, enhance chassis stability, reduce fatigue and improve ride feel. The premise behind the Rimpact Chain Damper is that it quells errant chain slap, and by so doing minimizes the effect that a flailing chain can have on suspension performance over rough ground.

Chain damping has been a topic of conversation in the gravity scene ever since 2015, when Aaron Gwin won a DH World Cup at Leogang without a chain. Pedal kickback is a well-known instance of chain/suspension interference, but drivetrain feedback in general – where the chain is slapping around when riding over rough terrain, whether pedaling or not pedaling – has been under increasing scrutiny ever since Gwin’s moment of chainless glory. Low engagement hubs and structured chain guides like the STFU system have been recognized as having a “quieting” effect on a bike’s behavior in the rough, and more recently the O-Chain damped chainring and E13’s Sidekick rear hub have taken a more defined and assertive role in attempting to mitigate how chain movement impacts suspension behavior and ride feel.

Shutter Right Justified

"Now we dance..." Sorry. I can't help but say that in a German accent whenever see a black sleeved arm holding a sprocket.

What Is It?

Enter the Rimpact Chain Damper. This is a damped chainring that bolts directly onto your crankarm, replacing your existing chainring/spider (current fitments include Shimano, SRAM 3 bolt, SRAM 8 bolt Transmission, Hope Direct mount and RaceFace Direct mount). It is available in 30, 32, 34 and 36t options, and is compatible with Boost 52, T-type Transmission and 55mm DH chainlines. It weighs 240g, and costs 372 USD/517 CAD.

What you get for that pile of scratch is a chairing that rotates between a pair of aluminum plates, riding on a set of thrust bushings and sealed by a pair of X-rings around the perimeter and an O-ring at the bottom bracket spindle. Four elastomers control the limits of chainring rotation, and a pair of steel coil springs determine the engagement preload. This is all sandwiched together with four 4mm hex head bolts, and the whole setup looks initially well sealed and well made. The system provides 8.6 degrees of rotation. This is a number that Rimpact have determined provides optimal performance at damping chain behavior without sacrificing pedal behavior.

Rider pedals forward, spring compresses, chainring pushes into elastomer and comes to a hard stop, bike moves forward. Rider stops pedaling, spring pushes chainring back, more or less decoupling it from the drivetrain,allowing it to float and react to chain flail or ground impacts that might otherwise be transmitted to rider's feet or to the suspension. This "give" is part of why some people favor low engagement hubs over high engagement ones, and is part of the hypothesis of why suspension works better on bikes without chains than it does on bikes with chains.

explody

It all sandwiches together pretty cleanly...

I am going to go on record here as regarding this all with a great degree of curiosity as well as a huge amount of skepticism.

So, with curiosity and skepticism both at the forefront of my mind, I installed a 32t Rimpact Chain Damper on my Starling Murmur. I chose the Murmur for the following reasons:

  1. It’s a single pivot suspension, and as such, doesn’t have any fancy extra linkages to try and make it a hoverbike. There’s a fair bit of anti-squat, and that means that it does telegraph some degree of the ground feedback through the pedals when riding through chundery stuff.
  2. It’s a bit of a softie. Meaning, the steel frame has a degree of flex to it that I can best describe as “harmonic.” It gives, but gives in a very predictable and reassuring fashion. But, it is also quite sensitive to suspension setup, and going too stiff on the preload or not getting the front/rear balance totally dialed has very pronounced effects on ride behavior. Same goes with trying to run really stiff wheels. Suffice to say – small changes are very noticeable.
  3. It’s not exactly a flyweight, nor a rocket uphill. So, if I’m going to slap a chainring on a bike that adds weight along with a “to be determined” amount of drivetrain lash, this seems like a better candidate than some 26lb XC whip.
  4. It’s the only longish travel FS bike I have.

Installation went as follows: Remove cranks. Curse the gods for not having the correct size tool to remove the damn lockring on my XT cranks. Go buy Shimano TL-FC41 socket at Vecchio’s in Boulder. Come home. Remove lockring. Remove Shimano chainring. Lightly grease crank mating surface and threads. Install Rimpact chainring. Reinstall cranks. The trip to Boulder aside, this took about 5 minutes.

mountainstarling

I should probably get around to writing up some sort of "Endless Faffery Toward A Long Term Relationship" roundup of what's been going on with me and this Starling, but not today. Another time. Meanwhile, what is this, amateur hour? Valve stems not rotated to 6 o'clock. Bike not perfectly level. Crank and pedal modestly caddywumpus. I have a right mind to fire my photographer...

What it does

My inner skeptic had a field day for the first few rips around the block. At the risk of separating the youth from the silverbacks here, my initial pedal strokes with the Rimpact installed threw me straight back to childhood days of riding bikes with buggered out cottered cranks. There’s this disconcerting dead spot in each pedal revolution when soft pedaling and when starting to pedal that – at the outset – feels ugly.

That feeling lasted about 15 minutes. A half hour later, at the top of a chunky few miles of climbing, I had decided that the tractability was worth the occasional extra few degrees of engagement when entering a techy bit, and had totally come to terms with the dead spot. An hour later, after another climb and some chunky mid-grade downhills, I was thinking that the juice was definitely worth the squeeze. By the end of a three hour initial ride, I was trying to calm down a growing sense of “damn, I had no idea” wonder and not let my confirmation bias get too far ahead of itself. So, I rode a bunch of flat pavement to finish the ride and conceded at that point that I could totally live with this on my long travel sled 24/7. Here’s what I noticed:

Pedaling - Those 8.6 degrees of takeup make themselves immediately apparent. When soft pedaling on flat ground, the dead spot pulse into power is very pronounced. Combined with the push into the spring when applying power and the release of the spring back when backing off, it’s an odd sensation that will totally reveal any sloppiness in your pedal stroke. Once I realized what was happening, it took a few minutes to adapt how I was pedaling and then ceased to be an issue, even on flat ground. On anything from low-grade consistent effort climbing to max-effort punchy steeps, it’s also a non-issue. Once power is applied, there is no flex or squishiness to be felt at all.

The float is there, though. So, just as with people who think super fast engagement hubs are crucial in technical riding, there will be people who just can't get around the slight wind-up of engagement with this damper. It adds 8.6 degrees of extra lag before engagement. That will totally be a deal breaker for some people.

Speaking purely for myself here, I got used to it super-fast, and then forgot about it everywhere but on flat terrain and super easy pedaling. And then, I reminded myself try and pedal like a cyclist instead of like a hiker and everything was fine.

I was trying to slap a GIF of the Chain Damper doing it's thing in here, but the whole deal went a bit sideways. So instead, here's Rimpact founder Matt Shearn on The Downtime podcast explaining what it does and why, from his perspective. It's worth a listen.

Everywhere Else - Maybe I am enamored of nuance. But this thing is sweet! The Starling is already a pretty “quiet” bike. Steel frame, coil spring, relatively soft Forge+Bond wheels. It is a smooth, tractable bike. That said, the Rimpact Chain Damper enhanced the smoothness and tractability everywhere – uphill and down. Square edged ledges and chattery rock sections felt less square, less chattery. The usual gentle tug on the pedals that would occur on mid- to big drops went away. The already plush initial responsiveness of coil sprung suspension felt plusher. I had not touched my damper knobs, but it felt like I had backed the compression adjusters out. Overall, my bike felt quieter, more tractable, and more comfortable.

Rimpact started out with tire inserts and a lot of what I experienced on my first ride with this chain damper mirrors a lot of what I felt the first time I tried CushCore. At that time, a friend described his experience with CushCore as “a better signal to noise ratio; more signal, less noise.” Even though this chain damper is working to subdue the 250 or so grams of chain that is wailing around on bumpy ground - as opposed to changing the way a tire compresses as it traverses bumpy ground – there are parallels that can be drawn between how these two different components affect ride feel. Both act as damping devices, and both have an effect on the overall behavior of a bike. Both serve to filter out an element of “noise” so that riders can focus more on “signal”.

In steep, rough terrain, I don’t really see a downside. My bike was markedly more composed everywhere from turn in feel on braking rut corners to straight lining through rock gardens. I suspect that the steeper and rougher things get, the better this feels. I felt less feedback through my pedals, my suspension felt plusher, and I was better able to find traction climbing, cornering, and braking.

The flipside to that coin is that I don’t really think that XC racers will find any use for this. It’s expensive, adds 100 grams or so to bike weight, and feels strange on flat ground or when soft pedaling. Extrapolating that out, riders who live where the trails are buffed smooth will probably not feel much benefit either. In smooth, undulating going, the Rimpact Chain Damper feels more like something that is loose in the drivetrain instead of all the smooth sweetness I was describing earlier. I should also note that in my case, this installation pushed my chainline out about 3mm. With the XT drivetrain I am riding right now, the knock on is not noticeable in terms of shift performance or drivetrain noise, but not everyone will be ecstatic about that.

I also wonder if I like it because I am on a single pivot bike; as in, I wonder if the benefits that I felt are as tangible on bikes that have more design sophistication invested in pedaling neutrality. Buuut then again, according to Rimpact, pedal feedback is only part of the equation. It’s overall mass of the chain flailing about that they are trying to address, because they believe that is what is having a greater effect on suspension and overall bike behavior. I can’t speak to that, and can only relay what I have experienced so far, in a handful of rides, with barely 10 hours invested.

But 10 hours in, here’s what I think: The Rimpact Chain Damper works well enough in rough terrain that I am more than happy to leave it on the bike and see how it holds up over the summer. I am quietly impressed, not nearly as skeptical, curious as to how it lasts, and willing to focus on keeping my spin smooth.

Rimpact Chain Damper

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Comments

Heinous
+6 Mike Ferrentino Cr4w Jotegir HughJass Atlas_Hub Pete Roggeman

Great write up, I particularly enjoyed the bullet points of reasons it’s in the starling.

I’ve been running an O-Chain on my arrival for a year, and the difference is pretty much like you’ve written up, even with a fancy linkage. The bike is so much quieter and more composed. I’ve encountered two downsides that are minor:

- under some janky moves there’s a feeling I initially confused with shock too out, but it’s the movement in the crank rolling back and then forward to engage. 

- the casing bolts do seem to need fairly regular checking and tightening. I’ll experiment with some light loctite when next strip it.

As an aside, some years ago a bunch of Australian national team road bikes and Vic state Institute of Sport bikes came up for sale with a very particular modification - all the Shimano crank preload caps had been violently punctured with a large flat head head screwdriver by a very old school mechanic who flat out refused to use the tool.

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Jotegir
+2 Mammal Andy Eunson

Good for that old school mechanic (I respect the curmudgeon in all of us) but I've always subscribed to the idea that the proper tool is best used to fix someone else's (or the factory's) work. The torque spec on the plastic insert is something like 0.7 nm, aka "thumb tight" -  I serviced hundreds of those cranks by literally inserting my thumb into the cap, turning it until the preload was taken up and no knock was present in the crankset, and then tightened the crank bolts. Never had a hollowtech II crank knock or come loose on that method. I only used the proper tool when I needed to undo someone else's overtorque or the one or two times I encountered a metal insert.

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mammal
+2 Jotegir Andy Eunson

Yeah, the use of the plastic tool on the plastic preload cap was a well-calculated move (aside from note considering the huge population of "more is always better-er" folks).

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andy-eunson
+2 Jotegir Pete Roggeman

I speculate that certain 30mm bb longevity issues are the result of over tightening the preload ring. Particularly if those rings are aluminum. Too easy to over do it. Or pedals that people reef on super tight. They are threaded to self tighten folks. Or cranking the bolts on a 4 bolt face plate stem. There’s not that much force in a rotary direction on mountainbike bars. 

I recall a story about stem bolts failing or stripping out on a pro road team. The stems were Dedas with 4mm titanium bolts which the pro mechanics checked before races by tightening them a bit. Eventually they stripped or broke. Deda investigated and figured it out. Gave the teams a torque wrench and problem solved.

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Heinous
+2 Andy Eunson Jotegir

I was working with pro/national road teams when that was happening. It was complicated by the fact that there were a bunch of stems getting around that were defective. 3T had a terrible run (I think combo of bolt head shape, some defective materials, the narrow face plate on the stem, and some distinctly belgian mechanics). It was primarily faceplate bolts, but occasioanally a facepalte itself would crack when over-tightened at one corner. After Hincapie snapped his steerer in 2006 people got a little more open to torque wrenches. 

It wasn't uncommon to find steerer tubes flared from mechanics massively overtightening quill stems back in the day, and those habits die hard.

For BB's, it's hard - so many use press in nylon spaces etc that sometimes 'over' tightening serves a purpose to settle things but shouldn't be a default. I think a lot of the shit technique relates to GXP crank habits.

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pete@nsmb.com
+1 Andy Eunson

Carbon bars were also starting to gain acceptance with Pro Tour teams around that time (not all riders, and generally just the big names at first, not most sprinters, but a few were experimenting) and despite the recommendation of friction paste, I'm not sure it was widely adopted right away, either.

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LoamtoHome
+5 Mike Ferrentino fartymarty Andy Eunson jordaño dhr999

Brian Cahal did a great review on the Rimpact as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f46g1ruqPho

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mikeferrentino
+5 AJ Barlas FlipSide Jerry Willows jordaño Shinook

Brian is a beast of a rider. It's good to see his YT channel is picking up steam.

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LoamtoHome
+2 jordaño dhr999

it's ones my favorite YT channels right now....  not a shill like the others out there.

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andy-eunson
0

https://www.starlingcycles.com/is-pedal-kickback-bullshit/

Starling’s take on ochain and pedal kickback. When I rode a Santacruz Superlight pedal kickback was a thing when pedalling up and over some obstacle which was definitely felt when at top dead centre of the stroke.

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fartymarty
+4 ultimatist Cougar797 Morgan Heater utopic

I still feel this is a bandaid for current mtb drive trains that would all disappear with a gearbox....  

At least we have gearboxes on the WC DH circuit now and am still hoping they filter down to trail bikes.

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Heinous
0

Gearboxes have the same device integrated to the drive shaft don’t they?

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fartymarty
0

They may, I have read gearboxes (not sure which) are pretty laggy on the uptake.  But if you are using a Gates belt and it's tight there isn't going to be a lot of movement - same for a chain I guess.

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morgan-heater
+2 fartymarty Tjaard Breeuwer

Pinions have about 12 degrees of movement in the internal freehub. Probably not great if you're a trialsy type. I don't notice it in typical trail riding.

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Briain
0

I suspect the belt solves these issues rather then the gearbox. Rubber is naturally dampening. But there's also more slop in the gearboxes something like 12° if memory serves

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Heinous
+1 Tjaard Breeuwer

Effigear sell a fixed gear rear hub so that the engagement lag at the chainring is all you have. It means chain is always moving, so you'll wear it (or belt) and the chainring quicker, but significantly reduce the unsprung weight and engagement lag.

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Bigbikerida
0

This comment has been removed.

morgan-heater
+1 fartymarty

They have filtered? Not a ton of options, but they're out there, and they're pretty darn good.

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Timer
+2 Kos Skooks

It really feels like gearboxes are one of these things that are amazing in theory but fail in practice due to a myriad of small niggles and hiccups. 

People have been able to buy gearbox trail bikes for at least ten years. And nobody did. E-motorbikes with integrated systems might change that. 

That said, it might be worth trying what most gearbox bikes do and run an idler pulley on the non-powered side of the chain to reduce chain slap. As on pre-clutch drivetrains.

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Briain
0

Cavalarie bikes. Which is the bike brand of effi gearboxes do this separate input and output shafts so the belt is perfectly in line with the pivot

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Jotegir
+3 Andy Eunson Endlesstrailz Kever

One of those products that I've read enough reviews on that I'm pretty confident I'd get the added benefit (perhaps especially on my non-high single pivot bikes....) but for north of $500 per bike, It's probably best I remain ignorant.

"According to Rimpact, pedal feedback is only part of the equation. It’s overall mass of the chain flailing about that they are trying to address, because they believe that is what is having a greater effect on suspension and overall bike behavior"

With the assumption that Rimpact is correct and the greater impact on suspension behaviour is chain flail, could the mentioned STFU bike or perhaps that magnet thing released late last year (link for the curious, it's interesting enough to justify a look) deliver the majority of the benefit at a fraction of the cost?

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mikeferrentino
+3 Jotegir Kos BarryW

Could the STFU deliver most of the benefits at a fraction of the cost? Not sure. I feel like this is something worth investigating though.

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Cougar797
+3 IslandLife BarryW Kever

I dont think this is just about the silence. Its about literally taking chain pull induced spikes out of the pedals when hitting rough terrain. Just letting the suspension work without chain tension effecting it.

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Jotegir
+3 IslandLife Velocipedestrian Andy Eunson

Sure, but STFU bike on the tin says its about noise, you have to read the fine print about quieting chain flail - with which both it and the Rali device seem to assist. There's no question the chain flaps around less with these things on the bike. So if the "active" ingredient of the Rimpact and Ochain style devices is that they de-tension the chain a little bit when coasting, the question then becomes how much of Mike's perceived benefits are coming from the primary effect of separation of forces/fore-aft float within the drivetrain, and how many of the perceived benefits are coming from the "side effect" of reducing chain flap (which can be accomplished in alternative ways that don't involve introducing drivetrain float to the chainring or hub).

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mikeferrentino
+1 Jotegir

Take a listen to the podcast linked in the article. Matt is very articulate about what Rimpact is trying to address, and mentions that chain pull or tension is one part of a greater set of influences that they identified - that the flailing mass of the chain itself was enough to have an effect on suspension and chassis behavior aside from the already recognized aspects of chain tension induced suspension behavior.

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Flatted-again
+2 Mike Ferrentino Timer

So conceivable, a lighter chain would decrease that effect too, right? I mean, chain weights aren’t very different between say xt and xtr so maybe it doesn’t really matter

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pete@nsmb.com
+2 BarryW Flatted-again

I don't think there's a lot of weight that can be pulled out of chains if you want to continue to get reliable, bombproof shift performance (esp with drivetrains designe to be compatible with ebikes as well as newer riders who shift like they have hammers for fingers) and any kind of durability.

fartymarty
0

Back to back Chainless vs Chained runs is the only way to really tell.  Maybe that's one for the bike park sometime.

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mammal
0

I can tell you it makes a huge difference (chain vs. chainless).

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kamloops_rider
0

By accident I did a chainless run down a very familiar trail on my Arrival and it was a noticeable difference/improvement.

earleb
+4 Jerry Willows IslandLife Mike Ferrentino Morgan Heater

https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/can-pedal-kickback-denier-see-light

Not just chain vs no chain. The Robot did chain, no chain, o-chain, and lastly pulled the pawls from the freehub. 

"TL:DR; I was wrong. Pedal kickback is definitely a thing, and it starts at the rear hub. Incredibly, rear wheel impacts can be fast and violent enough to move the cassette faster than the spinning freehub. It’s important to note that I wasn’t seeking a new feeling from my bike in this test, as much as seeking the absence of a familiar feeling. And that’s exactly what I felt. Once I pulled the pawls out, I experienced the near-total absence of a certain bandwidth of high-frequency, stuttery, low-grade impacts that have been my constant companion in mountain biking over the last two decades. I learned that, even if you can’t hear or feel the cassette engaging when you hit bumps, that doesn’t mean it isn’t. The absence of that sensation was odd, and I had to adjust my riding technique as a result. "

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Bikes
+2 Mike Ferrentino PowellRiviera

Clutch this and the freehub via the dropper post full down position….

Flatted-again
+2 UMichael Jotegir

That was a cool test. Removing the pawls was the novel bit for me, and gets me wondering about the wrp dt Swiss mod and the Tairin hub, where the ratchet completely disengages.

fartymarty
+1 Jotegir

Mike - you've officially become our pedal kick / chain slap guinea pig / guru.

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Jotegir
+4 Mammal Pete Roggeman fartymarty utopic

That's it. Get this man on every product that claims to isolate chain forces. Rimpact, Ochain, WRP ring, STFU Bike, Magnet thing, E13 hub, idler bikes, no chain, gearbox, etc. Once the individual items are tested, start to make combos! High pivot, Rali Magnet, o-chain equipped bike!  Mike won't have time to review another product for years.

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fartymarty
+1 Jotegir

Jotegir - I ran a STFU with a Zee mech (until the STFU died).  The Zee keeps the chain tight but it's a compromise gearing wise.  I've never really thought of chain slap / pedal kick as a problem.  Maybe it's one of those things that you notice when it's not there.  Saying that the Murmur always feels like a magic carpet ride after the HT.

I'm with you on not wanting to try one as it's 280 King's Heads over this side of the pond and £70 a chainring.

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Heinous
0

With an o-chain or similar you remove so much violence from the chain on the ring that you can turn clutch off or wind it right back off.

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mammal
+1 Jotegir

Rali magnet-thingy is interesting, thanks for sharing.

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Kever
0

$500+ is the deciding factor here. $250-300 is the max. I'd spend on something like this. I'd love to try one as my DH bike experiences significant pedal kickback but I'll live with it until something more reasonable comes along. 

That being said I've been told the execution of the rimpact device is top notch.

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mammal
0

I'm in the same boat. I'd love to run one of these, but my DH bike has older-style BB/cranks, so my cash outlay would be even higher.

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earleb
+3 Jotegir Andy Eunson BarryW

The STFU works. I used a single one last year mounted mid chainstay and planning to run a pair of them this year. No pedal lag, no squishy pedal feel, just nice quiet chain that doesn't flap around like crazy.

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Flatted-again
+1 BarryW

I swear by them. Added benefit is no longer worrying about a chain saw flapping around into carbon stays.

Who was it that was running one upside down at hardline?  Controlling the lower chain seems like the next big chain thing.

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andy-eunson
+2 Kos BarryW

Ordered. Seems like a nice simple solution.

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Kever
0

I've seen world cup DH riders run STFU above AND below the chainstay for maximum chain damping. Let's see a tutorial on setting that up!

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andy-eunson
0

So I received , installed and rode the Zappa trails in Whistler with this STFU. The chain is super quiet and maybe it’s wishful thinking but the suspension seemed better too. I had a great ride. So I’m thinking maybe instead of controlling a flapping chain and what it does with a complex spring or elastomer controlled chainring, the STFU mitigates the chain flapping about for way less coin and complexity. Maybe?

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craw
+1 Mike Ferrentino

The idea of a soft pulse into power transmission sounds nice but isn't that the exact same phenomenon that leads bigger/stronger/heavier riders to destroy freehub assemblies? Even if the performance benefits that result from it are awesome I wonder what the longer term durability is like? That aside, I'm totally curious to try one of these products. At the very least, using one for a while would be super instructive as far as illustrating how your drivetrain, suspension and power output interrelate.

Also, in the photo of the Starling the valve stems are also not lined up with the tire logos.

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mikeferrentino
+10 Mammal Cr4w Jotegir Atlas_Hub IslandLife Pete Roggeman Velocipedestrian Konda Blofeld Joseph Crabtree

Long term durability is something I am wondering about. The Rimpact looks pretty cleanly designed and well made, but this is one of those areas of massive torque, and also prone to getting pretty damn dirty, so we shall see. My main question mark on this is how the engagement feel changes as the elastmoers wear out. They are pretty easy to change, and there's a spare set supplied with the unit, but if this is something that has to be changed every month that might get a bit tedious. Also, Rimpact does make a "trail" spring, apparently, that is lighter for a softer engagement. I am not sure it's necessary, but it is available for riders seeking a more pedal-friendly feel.

As for the soft pulse into power - that is a similar description of how a motorcycle cush hub operates. Basically, the rear sprocket is mounted in a series of rubber blocks so that hard accelerations and decelerations on pavement are not transmitted straight through the chain into the gearbox. The rubber blocks take up that lash, in sacrifice to gearbox longevity.

As for the hot patches - I lined them up so that the "R" was over the valve stem, which is about halfway along the entire hot patch, since it reads "Butcher Grid Trail T9". The hot patch is 215mm long, and the valve stem sits at 107mm past the letter "B". But since half the hot patch is white lettering and half is dark, it looks off. I could have just used the "Specialized" hot patch on the other side, but then I wouldn't have had the opportunity to out-pedant you.

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craw
+3 Mike Ferrentino Pete Roggeman Velocipedestrian

These are cool options to explore for sure. Originally I would destroy freehubs due to lag. So we switched to high-engagement hubs to eliminate that but to deliver that the hubs have much smaller teeth on the drive ring and as I got stronger I started destroying those too, ultimately going to slightly less quickly engaging hubs with meatier drive parts and so far that's been a good (and quieter) compromise.

I would love to try this product on a descending-oriented bike but I'd have to be experiencing a pretty major performance issue to justify the price of this thing. I currently ride a VPP bike with Hope Pro 5 hubs. There's a lot going on back there. Testing one of these products would be illuminating for sure. I think there's all kind of chain-pedal-suspension stuff going on that I remain blissfully unaware of. I guess I could do a couple of chainless laps to get a taste.

Credit to your pedantry game. Excellent work.

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mammal
+2 Mike Ferrentino BarryW

Chainless laps are VERY enlightening, at least in a rough-ground context. As someone who's regularly ridden a semi-antiquated DH bike for quite a few years in a row, absolutely nothing has felt better than that day your equipment decided that "It's chainless day!"

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Jotegir
0

I could see why your generation of Aurum would benefit from something like an O-Chain (or, in your case, the NO-Chain) in particular! Remember when Blenki had the pre-HSP flipped-chainguide-to-idler thing like 10 years ago?

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mammal
+1 Jotegir

Yep. And yes, I sure do remember that. There was a shot of him loading a gondola or something, with an idler mounted to his Seat Tube structure if I remember correctly.

A buddy of mine ran a Maiden for the longest time, and his most recent change before finally getting a new bike was installing an Ochain. He was plenty skeptical beforehand, but he was a convert immediately.

cooperquinn
0

It should reduce those spikes in torque/stress on your freehub, as instead of "instant" engagement and all the load hitting at once, it'll come on over a few degrees of rotation (same load, more time, lower peak). 

Think about running into a wall with a pillow, or without a pillow.

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Wapti
0

the man, the mezzer, the legend

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DogVet
0

So if it’s performance gains are related to chains flapping about, why not try it on a single speed single pivot to see how much effect it has then?!

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Flatted-again
+2 Konrad BarryW

In that case, the starling sturn shouldn’t feel any chain flap at all. Heck, no chain growth either?

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fartymarty
0

I would take a shorter travel version of the Sturn as a trail bike - I just need to win lotto and then ask Joe nicely to make me one.

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Heinous
+1 Velocipedestrian

A single pivot still experiences chain growth (unless it's concentric to BB like Cove used to do) so you would still need a tensioner of some form, which will mean some slap.

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fartymarty
0

If it's like a Starling Spur it wouldn't https://www.starlingcycles.com/bikes/spur/

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Mick-e
0

Mike. I don’t get the “Now we dance” reference. I tried looking it up to see if it triggered anything but I’m blanking.

Help

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mikeferrentino
+4 Andy Eunson BarryW Pete Roggeman Timer

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Timer
0

Ouch! And here i was thinking it was a reference to the hidden-cutting-disk throwing Bond villain.

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BarryW
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I'm a fan of the simple STFU chain damper, and compared to hoping on anyone else's trail bike it does feel like it makes a difference. 

It would be interesting to compare the effects of something so simple/inexpensive/lightweight with this device or an O-Chain.

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Konrad
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I joke but I am curious about what it would be like on a hardtail. Just for getting rid of vibrations and noise. I wonder if it would have an effect on feel at the pedals, especially with flats.

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Jotegir
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Ok, there I'm sure you could save some money and get the STFU bike or the Rali magnet system.

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