Review
BikeYoke Introduces the Barmate Handlebar
BikeYoke doesn't just want to make handlebars; they also want to bring some sense to how the industry measures them and communicates that data. I'm going to leave that to Pete though and tell you about their two new handlebars.
As it is with their top-shelf seat posts, BikeYoke isn't interested in putting their name on any off the (lower) shelf products. These do the same things as other bars, in terms of supporting your grips, your levers and shifter, and your body mass, but it's clear they wanted to do this thoughtfully, and with attention to finishing, testing, longevity and comfort.
The carbon and aluminum handlebars are virtually identical in terms of geometry for your hands but their shape is distinct because of the carbon layup that is not perfectly round, nor does it have a uniform wall thickness. The carbon version (uncut) weighed 259g on my scale while the aluminum was 325g.
I was thinking about what I look for in a handlebar and what other riders might seek. I want a compliant handlebar but I don't worry too much about weight. And obviously I want it to be stiff enough to provide accurate control, especially when things get hairy and forces increase. I'm no longer very fussy about looks but if it looks cool to me, I'm definitely happier.
When I recently mentioned that I wasn't too fussed about the brand on my stem, as long as it worked and looks good (I am particular about how my stem looks) several of you put up your hands to say the exact opposite. You are indeed fussed, which I imagine is the sort of customer Bikeyoke is looking for. They too are fussed, in a very precise and German way.
Do some of you want a very stiff handlebar? Of course this is taking into consideration the realization that what is stiff to a 140lb/63kg beginning rider with their bars cut to 760mm, will be much less so to an aggressive and experienced 250lb/114kg rider with uncut 800mm ape hangers. But perhaps even with that qualifier, some of you prefer bars that feel stiff.
The carbon mesh that reinforces the area where your grips and controls are clamped.
This image shows the bars' flattened shape, reflecting as a narrow line, as well as the titanium mesh where the stem clamps.
BikeYoke Barmate Handlebars
It's been some time since I had to endure über stiff handlebars but some are still more compliant than others, and these feel really nice. Like a couple of other brands, BikeYoke flattened a section of the bar some to allow for more vertical flex, while retaining torsional rigidity. The carbon is also laid up with those goals in mind, and the results are good.
Beyond the goal of a 35mm bar that feels as good as a 31.8, Bikeyoke has reinforced important areas of the bar with a titanium mesh. Usually if we are putting titanium on our bikes we'd like it to be load and proud, but it's subtle here. You can see the titanium mat below the epoxy where the bar clamps and then again where the grips, levers and shifter are mounted. The mesh distributes the stress from the clamps to improve strength.
The demarcations are easy to see on the aluminum bar, but less so on the carbon version.
You only have to use them once, so I guess it's no big deal if you have to use the flashlight on our phone.
Bar Shape
As I mentioned, Pete will explain how BikeYoke is measuring the sizing of their handlebars differently than others in an upcoming article. The need-to-know info here is that the Barmate with 50mm stack compares to other bars with 15-25mm rise, while the 65 adds up to 40mm. I can tell you however that it seems to me the 65 stack Bikeyoke seems to have 4 or 5mm less rise than the 38mm rise bar from PNW components I've been riding. Check the full specs below.
Aluninum specs. Swipe for carbon. And full points if you can find the difference(s) between them.
Carbon specs.
BikeYoke calls their grip the Grippy. These come in six juicy colours and black. They cost 21 EUR/USD.
The clamp is hidden by a flap of grip. It seems I put this on the wrong side, based on the torque rating's inversion, but I'm quite sure I have the right side up because the cutout in the inner (see next image) is positioned properly.
The hard plastic inner has a gap where the ball of your hand sits so it's like a push on grip: all padding.
The rubber around the hard centre is also concentric, so there is more material under your hand, where you need it, and less on the bottom. This allows for more padding without a larger diameter grip. I love the hard ends. Too many grips get destroyed when your bike augers into the dirt.
This is the BikeYoke Topper. It's a single piece of aluminum CNC'd to act as both top cap and bolt. It's dead sexy.
It's even pretty underneath. There is also a High Topper, (not pictured) with an integrated 5mm spacer.
And of course it comes in a little recycled cardboard jewellery box.
I only had so much time before the embargo to ride the new bars so I chose the carbon version, but the aluminum version with the exposed and polished portion looks great installed. The margin where it turns from silver to black is covered by the stem, which is a very nice detail.
I appreciate the way the casting of the stem makes it seem like it's part of the handlebar. I also appreciate the short 35mm length on my We Are One, which is quite long.
BikeYoke Barkeeper Stem
This uncomplicated hunk of aluminum has gone through a lot to arrive at its finished state, as you can see below. There is a little tool in the box that you must use to spread the clamp to install it on bars with even a small amount of rise. There is also a pair of spare bolts in the box that press into the tool to give you enough gap in the clamp to slide the bar into place. The tool has an integrated guide to show you how wide you can spread the clamp without causing any damage. Personally I didn't mind this process. The 35mm version, when used with optional ti bolts, weighs just 80g.
- Precise forging process
- Multi-tempering
- CNC machining of cristical contact interfaces
- Shot peening for surface hardening
- Laser engraving black or transparent (RFF - Raw Forged Finish) anodized coating
The Barkeeper stem is tidy and to the point. Because it has only two bolts and no hinge, it won't slide on most handlebars without an intervention.
It's really quite cute. Before looking at the instructions (stems have instructions?) I struggled to get the Barkeeper into position. A handlebar may have been damaged a little.
Once I examined the literature, I understood what the two extra bolts and the funny little L-shaped bracket were for. The bolts press into the bracket and open the clamp enough for it to easily slide on even curvy high-rise handlebars.
Testing
Both handlebars are tested to the ASTM #5 standard, which is the gnarliest. In the words of EFBE, the testing is designed to replicate, "extreme jumps, downhill rides at extreme grades and at speeds exceeding 40 km/h. Jumps and drops of more than 120 cm. Examples: Downhill, Freeride, Dirt MTB." So that's reassuring. Barkeeper stems are tested to this same standard.
Prices
Barmate aluminium bars are 89 EUR/USD for black and 99 EUR/USD for the black and silver. The carbon version is 270 EUR/USD. The Barkeeper Stem is 74 EUR/USD, the Topper is 11.76 EUR/USD and the Grippy grips are 21 EUR/USD.
Comments
lookseasyfromhere
1 week, 3 days ago
"Beyond the goal of a 35mm bar that feels as good as a 31.8..."
Which is why I'm still running 31.8 on all my bikes.
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leon-forfar
1 week, 3 days ago
31.8*
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Harris
1 week, 3 days ago
Same. I haven't really understood this pursuit. Do the larger bars just look more proportional with a battery stuffed in a downtube?
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Andy Eunson
1 week, 3 days ago
The 35 mm standard was developed by Dedaccia, an Italian tubing and component manufacturer for road bikes. It was said to be stiffer than 31.8 and their poster boy was the sprinter Andre Griepel aka the gorilla. Interestingly Renthal didn’t make a 35mm bar for some time as they said at the time it made no real difference. They do now though.
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fartymarty
1 week, 2 days ago
IIRC Renthal only made a 35mm bar because everyone else made one. They didn't think there was the need for anything bigger than 31.8. Given they've made MX bars for decades they should know a thing or two about bars.
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Timer
1 week, 2 days ago
There are sever manufacturers (e.g. Newmen) on record that 35mm bars make no sense for MTBs. They still have to make them because customers swallowed the marketing blurb and bike companies need to cater to that.
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DancingWithMyself
1 week, 2 days ago
I think I remember reading somewhere that it had something to with going to wider bars and the fact it was easier to make bars that passed the tests and met consumer expectations on weight in a diameter of 35mm rather than 31.8? And then once things started down that path, it took over. But I could be totally making that up.
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sverdrup
1 week, 3 days ago
Wow, tough crowd today! Bikeyoke makes fantastic products that work exceedingly well and are user serviceable. Surprised at the dismissive takes here.
I have the stem and it's my favorite that I have ever used. Light, looks good, forged, with Torx bolts. Even has a shim to use 31.8 bars. Highly recommend next time you find yourself in the market.
Thanks for making thoughtful products, sacki. My first Revive was a revelation after my last Reverb (and continues to be many years later).
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sacki
1 week, 1 day ago
Thanks, mate! Much appreciated!
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DBone57
1 week ago
Hey sacki, what are the odds of the bar keeper stem fitting 50mm rise pnw the loam carbon bars without tearing them up during installation?
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Tjaard Breeuwer
1 week, 3 days ago
I mostly like what Bikeyoke do.
But but a stem that needs a special, tiny, tool to install or remove the handle bar?
Besides that it’s annoying when you are installing it the first time, can you imagine being on a road trip or racing weekend, crashing and wanting to replace your handle bar?
Did you bring the little tool? If you always bring it, the chance of losing it goes up significantly, so maybe better to leave it home?
What big problem is fixed by this design?
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Mike Ferrentino
1 week, 3 days ago
"I wore an onion on my belt, which was the style at the time..." We used to use pennies. Thread the stem bolt into the backside, screw down against the penny, flare the stem open, try to thread the bar in without scratching it all to hell. Was way easier with 550mm 3-degree Hyperlites.
I consider the detachable faceplate stem to be one of the greatest cycling innovations of all time.
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lookseasyfromhere
1 week, 3 days ago
My immediate thought on seeing this stem as well. I have faffed with too many 1 piece stems to voluntarily go back.
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Perry Schebel
1 week, 3 days ago
jesus. that unearthed deeply buried memories. the syncros cattleprod stem was especially problematic on that front - really wide dual pinchbolt clamp with tight tolerances. mine shows the scars of a hastily employed big old flat blade screwdriver.
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Cr4w
1 week, 3 days ago
Until the glory of the hinged Syncros came to put all that behind us.
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Jotegir
1 week, 3 days ago
Impossible task in Canada now and possibly you guys soon too. Start saving your pennies now!
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sacki
1 week, 3 days ago
Two bolt stems are less convenient than traditional 4-bolt stems, that's undeniable.
That being said, crashing and having to replace bars, I most likely have other things to worry about than spending 2 extra minutes for changing the stem.
That little tool is tiny and it's always in my toolbox, just like all the other proprietary tools I need to keep my bike running just in case.
Question (don't take it too seriously, you are not wrong): Do you bring your cassette removal tool, brake bleed kit, mineral oil and DOT, the chainwhip, the preload tool for your Hollowtech II cranks, the chain-bolt tool, the chain pliers, the BB tool for Race face, Hope, Shimano, SRAM, which are all different?
Yes, the stem mounting procedure is a little more involving, but some might say it looks nicer and it's defintely pretty light thanks to its design at <90g in 35mm length, despite ASTM 5 rating.
But, yes, a 4-bolt stem is more convenient.
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shenzhe
1 week, 3 days ago
I suppose my question (with some setup) is: Given that there are always engineering tradeoffs with any design decision, I assume there was something that motivated going with the two bolt design over a four bolt design. Was it the preferred aesthetics of a 2 bolt design? Was it that a goal was set for a sub 100g stem in 35mm length with an ASTM 5 rating, and removing the two bolts was the most functional way to do it? Some other possibility, or combination of possibilities?
I'll admit that I'm largely a function over form kinda guy, so an appeal to aesthetics doesn't hit hard for me, and I'm not racing these days so dropping 40g off my bike doesn't matter much to me either. All that said, I don't change bars very often so a little inconvenience for something that happens every couple of years also doesn't matter much to me.
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sacki
1 week, 3 days ago
A threaded connection is always weakening the material. You need more material to keep same stenght level. So, yes, a 2-bolt design can be stronger and lighter at the same time.
There was no specific goal we set ourselves for them stem. We simply wanted to make a stem that sets itself apart from most other stems and the 2-bolt design does exactly that. Knowing that the weight would be lighter anyways, weight was not our most concern. We wanted it to pass the EFBE Gravity test. Actually, the EFBE MTB-GR test consists of a cycle test with more than 300,000 cycles of variuos loads and scenarios (same phase, out of phase, different loads, ...), then a maximum load test and an over load test all with the same stem sample.
After already completing all the tests successfully, we had it succefully run the complete cycle test for a second time (total over 600,000 cycles).
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Mike Ferrentino
1 week, 3 days ago
My own four bolt bias toward lazy convenience aside, it really is a beautiful stem.
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lennskii
2 days, 8 hours ago
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Justin D
1 week, 3 days ago
Finally another 9x6 bar!
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sky101
1 week, 3 days ago
Hilarious that in 2025 this slacked jaw industry is still trying to ram 35mm standard down our throats and sell us 9 degree back sweep bars. Every other two wheeled sport has moved on to bars designed by looking at an actual human hand.
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handsomedan
1 week, 2 days ago
Yes - why can’t we get past this! I thought an innovative company like bike yoke might buck the trend. Oh well.
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Jotegir
1 week, 3 days ago
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Cr4w
1 week, 3 days ago
Just so I'm clear. This is a 9X6 bar in two typical rises but they've added two lines to the chart to describe how these specs affect reach and stack. Phew that's just great news. Most of us know that bar rise and sweep affect reach and stack so it's nice to have it quantified but it's hardly a revolution.
It doesn't look like they address this question in any way? Because quantifying this might actually be a big step forward:
> Do some of you want a very stiff handlebar? Of course this is taking into consideration the realization that what is stiff to a 140lb/63kg beginning rider with their bars cut to 760mm, is going much less so to an aggressive and experienced 250lb/114kg rider with uncut 800mm ape hangers. But perhaps even with that qualifier, some of you prefer bars that feel stiff.
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Andy Eunson
1 week, 3 days ago
Bingo. It’s a couple bars and stems that do handlebar and stem things. As far as this 145 pound, expert but old with various structural issues, all bars feel the same to me in terms of flex or compliance. If your claiming compliance is good, better make numerous bars with various amounts of compliance otherwise it’s bullshit. Marketing bullshit.
I’ve been around long enough to have experienced the stiff is better stiffer is more better until it became compliance is more better. Bunch of marketing nonsense.
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Cr4w
1 week, 3 days ago
I can definitely tell the difference but it's a vague feeling. I know "too stiff" when I experience it and "just right" is mostly the absence of the first thing.
It's a lot easier to add two lines to a chart and call it progress rather than add more upsweep/backsweep variants with a label that quantifies compliance for a median (180lb?) rider so the rest of us could have some idea of what to expect.
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sacki
1 week, 3 days ago
I beleive you need to put a few things in context. I am nost sure how experienced or quick of a rider you are. Nor do I know about your arm-physique or how long your longest descents in one-go are.
When I'm going dowhill at my maximum capacity for only 10 minutes straight (let alone 45 minutes like in Megavalance), then I am able to tell if a bar is too stiff (amongst other things that unneccessarily cost you energy).
And there are quite a few bars that are too stiff for my taste. You can call it marketing nonsense as much as you want.
I remember from about 2005-2015 everything needed to be stiffer and more stiffer. But those were times, where frames were not even close to as capable as they are now. Nowadays we're sending trails with 29" 130mm bikes at speeds that are in the ballpark of proper gravity equipment from 10 years ago. Frames need to become more sturdy, but other compomnents need to become more compliant. The suspension needs to happen somewhere.
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Andy Eunson
1 week, 3 days ago
OK. I’m 67 years old. 5’4" 145 pounds when I’m fit. Been riding off road seriously since 1983. I live in Whistler and before that North Vancouver. I haven’t had arm pump since no suspension and Mafac cantilevers down the BLT. I ride lots of downhills here that may be fast and might be slow and technical. I never ride park. I have a hardtail and full suspension bike. Probably owned 30 mountainbikes in that time.
I’ve been sucked in by marketing bullshit many times. I’m not immune to it but I think I’m getting better at questioning it.
I’m sure your bars are very good. But there are many very good bars out there. Compliance is the latest thing for a manufacturer to use to differentiate their product from another. But one size fits all compliant bars? For whom?
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Cam McRae
1 week, 3 days ago
Crusty Cr4w lately! I like it.
As I mentioned in the article, Pete is working with Sacki to simplify this idea so that it will (in theory at least) be easier to compare handlebars directly.
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Pete Roggeman
1 week, 3 days ago
The dimensions part, that is, not the compliance part ;)
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papa44
1 week, 3 days ago
Oh for christs sake I was just about happy with my setup and here we go again, there’s no way I can talk myself out of trying these bars. On a related note I’m a recent convert from 10speed short cage zee to 11speed linkglide, how many rear derailleurs are we all burning through a year?!?!
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sacki
1 week, 3 days ago
For the sake of your psychological well being, I'd include a gift pair of colorful socks with your order. And a sticker. And maybe one gummybear. Let me know when you're done not talking yourself out of that undertaking...
;-D
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papa44
1 week, 3 days ago
Ha cheers! For what it’s worth I still get amped when I see new and particularly well made stuff, bikes are my hobby after all..
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Curveball
1 week, 2 days ago
Just make damn sure that it's not a Haribo sugarless gummy bear.
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sacki
1 week, 1 day ago
They are not sugarless and not vegan! Are you crazy?
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sacki
1 week, 3 days ago
I beleive you are not clear.
There is no "typical" rise and that it the whole reason why we are trying to do away with specifiying a rise that is of no help for anyone.
You can find more information on our website or here:
https://bikeyoke.com/media/6e/59/d6/1741646748/Handlebar%20geometry%20explained.pdf
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fartymarty
1 week, 2 days ago
Sacki, are there any plans for something with more backsweep (12 degrees plus) and more rise? I'm currently on Ergotec 12 degree bars with 70mm rise but am after something that is more compliant - like the aluminium SQLabs 30x I also have.
Edit - I like the reach / stack idea - it makes a lot of sense. In a similar to Paul Aston / Rulezman I use effective stem length as a way of setting up my bars. Although I measure from centre of grips not end of bars as you load the centres - but understand why measuring the end makes more sense to manufacturers as it takes grip length out of the equation. I typically aim for a 0mm effective stem length.
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DancingWithMyself
1 week, 2 days ago
I think the new take on geometry and quoted handlebar specs is brilliant and really hope it catches on.
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XXX_er
1 week, 3 days ago
back in the day I bought 3 bars with different specs from the LBS and i told buddy I was going to try but not ride/ scratch them on my bike, I would bring 2 of them back and he was OK with that
I tried all 3 and couldn't really tell any difference so I took all 3 back but obviously I am probably just insensitive
i do feel the difference between different reach stems
I can't for the life of me figure out why in this day and age a mfger would make a stem without a 4 boltface plate
YMMV but I personaly look at that stem and don't wana buy something that is that inconvienent
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Raymond Epstein
1 week, 3 days ago
So am I a Luddite since I remain perfect content with my Raceface 800mmx35x35 Atlas and Turbine alloy bars? Also, sexy red 5010 FTW!
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stinhambo
1 week, 2 days ago
It would be useful if you could take a selection of higher rise bars and apply your measurement guide to them.
For example, what is *your* reach and stack for a set of Chromag FU50 bars?
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atwork123
1 week, 3 days ago
The top cap looks like of a copy of the one made by Pinner machine shop in Whistler.
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stinhambo
1 week, 3 days ago
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ackshunW
1 week, 2 days ago
Sacki, since you’re in the comments I’m going to write to you directly——
—I like the concept of the bar measurement. Clearly much better if we can all transition to it. I may be a customer for the aluminum one day.
— Read about the grips a while back. Having such a good experience with my bikeyoke dropper, and reading about the eccentric shape and cutout, it was enough for me to buy them, my first lock-on grips ever in 30 years of riding. I’m disappointed. They’re beautifully made and grippy, but for all the special effort into the technology, they’re way less comfy than my push-on Ourys, Chromags, ODIs, and everything before that. Maybe if they were a little bigger overall? I’m off lock-ons again.
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sacki
1 week, 1 day ago
Saddles and grips are always going to be a very personal thing. I am a fairly heavy rider (>90kg with equipment), decently quick with a firm grip. I don't feel like glueing my grips. I tried slide on grips many times and always ended up twisting them. If you have a recommendation for slide on grips I am happy to give them a try. I do not only ride our grips, I am constanty testing other stuff.
Right now on all my bikes are:
Deathgrip, Spank Spike 33 (I believe this one could be good for you, given what I read), Lizard Skins Machine, Sixpack (some OE variant). The rest of my bikes is equipped with our Grippy. In the past, I used all kinds of Ergon (forgot the if it was GA, GE, GD, or whatnot their names were).
That being said, I get alog with many grips, but I do not like when they are too flexible. I tear and wear them too quickly.
I am sorry if Grippy is not for you, but it's the way it is. Saddles and grips can never be to everyone's liking. There can not be a best saddle or best grip.
Posts on the other hand.... ;-)
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