Arizona Dream

It had been 13 years since I'd been to Arizona and it sure was a simpler time back then in 2012. Driving from Montreal to nowhere, racking up the miles in my 1996 Jeep XJ, I had some goals in mind and unwritten rules to follow; never take the interstate and don't use a GPS. Also, say hi to strangers and stop in small towns. Memphis was the first major city I was in after leaving Montreal. The weather through the Blueridge Parkway and The Great Smokeys was questionable at best. Being late May, there were storms every now and then, threatening the good time in the wilderness. We were heading into the tornado alley; anything could happen.

As we left the hot, humid Gulf of Mexico(!), we drove into Texas and the scorching, arid Sonora Desert. It was so unbearably hot that hard-working Mexicans, working on nearby oil rigs stayed at the same sketchy roadside motel we'd chosen. We exchanged nods as we felt each other out. We all needed some air conditioning.

The drive into Arizona was at high elevation, straight into Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest at about 10,000 ft. The air was thin as the old 4.0 struggled to overland us towards Winslow.

I did stand on the corner and the only sight to see was the underside of my Jeep as I had to change the oil in a NAPA parking lot. We'd been on the road for 6000kms. It wasn't a glorious or luxurious trip by any measure, pitching a tent every night for months and eating simple but healthy-ish food that we cooked or bought. My rescue pitbull Allegro was understandably hot, bothered and eager to shake every other creature in sight as it went crazy in the Jeep.

When we got to the gates of Grand Canyon National Park, the $25 entry fee just about put us over the edge. I may have even thrown my hands in the air at the poor park ranger; we only needed to take a left turn to the South rim of the canyon road to get to our destination. I had to left my jaw off the floor. Alright AZ, you now have my attention.

My friend Trevor Oleniuk met us just outside the Grand Canyon city limits. He had driven his vehicle of choice from Saskatoon, looking for answers to questions that didn't exist. While his drive through the center of America was a little less exciting than ours, he made it with a big smile on his face. As we camped on "The Canyon's Edge," we decided to wake with the sun for some photos. We rode simpler bikes back then. 20" wheels, front brakes, pegs and sore backs. All we needed was a flat, paved, reasonably clean parking lot. We could easily spend the whole day collapsing on our bikes like sacks of potatoes over and over again, just to dial in a trick. It only counts if you do it 3 times in a row. Otherwise, it's just a fluke.

Nailing one on the edge of the Grand Canyon on that June sunrise in 2012 was a great moment for Trevor and me the absence of an audience.

I decided had to return to Arizona for more time on two wheels, ideally with open eyes, having just awoken from a vivid dream. There is something really special about time in the desert for a moisture-seeking creature. I had to return, but it took me almost a decade and a half.

Sedona 2025

Driving through Arizona is one thing and spending time in some of the most beautiful landscapes to adorn this earth, under your own power is another. So 5 friends set aside 4 days of riding at the end of February to explore the red rocks in the sun.

If you are arriving from Canada, the most sensible thing to do is to fly to Phoenix for reasonably low fares and rent a vehicle to drive the 2 scenic hours to Sedona. If you have the means and the time, driving your own vehicle would be a great luxury. We decided, having 2 vehicles is really the key to having a successful shorter visit to the area. This way we could utilize mini shuttles to eliminate longer traverses along chunky trails to explore more riding zones.

The rental car situation in Arizona is not cheap, especially if you ask for a vehicle to haul five mountain bikers around the desert for a few days. I discovered Turo through friends and wanted to give it a fair shot. It is peer to peer rental and connects you with real people who own real cars. A 2012 Silverado fit my budget and was perfectly capable of carrying bikes and gear at 75mph down the i17.

Once you arrive in Sedona, dodge the countless photo studios and chakra alignment shops, you will be at 1400m (4600ft) elevation in the afternoon. It's then time to change into bike gear, grab a bubbly bevy from one a grocery store and wait until the sun's approach angle aligns with the top of your helmet. Like we say on the Sunshine Coast, "It's island time, even though it's not a freaking island!"

Your shakedown ride could start from your accommodation and take a gentle spin up to Teacup and Jordan ending on Javelina. You will feel like a fish out of water on this stuff. Yeah I know, you've been to Moab and ridden Slickrock with its tire-destroying grip. Sedona has a surprise for you, and it's called Red Rock and holy shit there is no grip!

The desert is a bizarre place. On your way into Sedona, going through the Prescott National Forest, you will see countless Saguaro Cacti painting the hillsides green. These prickly giants that live to be 150-200 years old, grow at a glacial pace. Taking 50 years to grow their first meter while holding 4000 lbs of water during the rainy season when fully grown. No wonder they are protected in the state of Arizona.

In Sedona however, they start giving way to the beautiful purple Prickley Pears. These little cute-looking numbers are at shin height, ready to turn you into a colander if you are not paying attention on the trails. Luckily I did not have to experience this. The Schwalbe Nobby Nic, Wicked Will combination is not what I would bring to this region again. Sure you can rack the miles on with ease with fast-rolling tiny knobs. But when the traction matters the most on punchy climbs that make up most of hiline and hangover, it's best to have some sticky rubber compound; EXO casing MaxxTerra at the very least. I wouldn't kick a MaxxGrip DHF out of bed in Sedona if it was me. But your mileage and riding experience may vary.

There are some beautiful rides in the middle of nowhere in Sedona. Chuckwagon and Canyon of Fools are absolutely beautiful when it comes to feeling the wind in your face at a higher pace. Riding along the amphitheatre-like Mescal trail is hard to explain in words. Get out there and make an afternoon of it. As with most desert explorations, early morning to late afternoons are the ideal times to experience the elements. While the mid-day heat can be exhausting, even in February, the afternoon glow of the red rocks is so magical you'll have to focus to keep your eyes on your front wheel and don't disregard that advice; tech moves on the edge of cliffs are not to be trifled with. I had to stop often and enjoy the beauty of it all. It really is breathtaking.

As far as on-trail entertainment is concerned, Hiline has a lot to offer in a very accessible package. You can drop a car off at the Red Rock River crossing and wade through some water after a hot ride or leave a vehicle at the Verde Valley School to avoid the water crossing, especially if its raging. You could even do the whole thing under your own protein power and pedalling the pretty ugly Templeton hike a bike back to the start. No matter the ride, Hiline is a super tech uphill to the Mesa and an amazing flowy and slab rich descent down to the valley floor. There are exceptionally chunky chutes with exposure to navigate toward the bottom that will test your commitment but overall.Hiline needs a repeat when you are in Sedona.

Life is slow rolling in Sedona during February but the March will bring the Mountain Bike Festival to town for a few days of absolute mayhem. The fairgrounds are located in the heart of town and I bet it's a proper good time if you are down with crowds. Personally I'm more into a quieter ride experience, especially on narrow cliff band trails where bottle necking is an issue.

I'd recommend a walk through historic village of Tlaquepaque. Surrounded by giant silver Sycamores along Oak Creek, It is a 70's trip to this artist's village, inspired by old Mexico. It's mostly a place of commerce and decent food but a beautiful walk nonetheless. The best ice-cream is right across the street at Cream Ice Cream and Cakes.

Four full days of riding in Sedona is a great appetite whetter. What I didn't know before arriving was that the nutty people of Sedona worked hard to make it a Dark Sky Community. One of only eight of its kind, there are strict rules about artificial lights, in Sedona to preserve a fantastic stargazing experience. After the sun sets and the temperatures drop, it's good thing I packed that puffy. Step outside and the incredible universe is circling around Cathedral rock every single night.

Unlike that time when Hollywood threw a whole bunch of money at a surreal political filmmaker from Yugoslavia in 1993 and was surprised by the result, I was counting on the incredible views, warm temperatures and a surreal experience in Sedona*. It had to wait over a decade for a revisit but the time, place and the company was just right to make it a magical 5 days. The desert changes you if you allow it. If you don't, it will gladly kill you in an instant. While I don't ever want to wash that beautiful red dust off the bike, it is time to move on and embrace the early spring on the North Shore once again. Arizona, I will be back. We aren't done yet.

*Emir Kusturica's Arizona Dream