World Affairs Part XII

The Swedish have a long tradition of spirits, elves, trolls, magical creatures, folklore,  legends, and fairy tales. Some of my favorite Scandinavian stories would have to be of Nøkken, Skogsrå and the trolls. Nøkken is a water creature who can shapeshift. He most often appears as a man sitting in a lake who plays a violin to lure people into the water or onto the thin ice. Once in the lake he takes them down to the bottom and eats them. Then there is the Skogsrå who appears in the forests as a beautiful young woman. She is so enticing and alluring to young men that she can not be resisted. When the young man and the Skogsrå are married in a church she loses the long cow’s tail she hides up her dress and she becomes human. However, she soon grows very ugly much to the disappointment of the young man. The young Skogsrå is most beautiful but she is also moody and dangerous; whereas, when she becomes old and ugly, she also becomes caring and gentle.

There are abundant stories of trolls, who some say are tall and others say short but everyone agrees they are extremely fat and ugly. Many live in the forests and possess immense gold and riches stashed in caves, under rocks and under tree stumps. Supposedly trolls swap baby trolls for human babies, most often pretty girls. They force them to spin by day and scratch the troll’s head by night. 

I love all these stories because they have a link to nature and the people of that land within the nature they live. The Nøkken could be a cautionary tale to make people aware of the dangers of drowning in the cold, deep lakes or being careful when they walk out onto the frozen lakes in the winter. The Skogsrå is a cautionary tale for all men to not be bewitched by gorgeous young women as they may have secrets to hide and their beauty will change with marriage and age. Then there are the trolls who might just be a great excuse for the one or two ugly girls that there are in Sweden.

Åre is a little community that builds off a very busy and thriving winter ski resort. In 1999
Åre held the mountain bike World Championships and since then has been steadily growing as a biking destination. Before arriving I had heard many great things about the bike park there but I was not prepared for what my tires rode that week. The bike park is huge and is serviced by up to five lifts (depending on the time of year) and because of the wide spread of lifts and the fact the mountain has a vertical of 1000m there are a huge variety of trails to ride. The VM6-chair services a lot of the more man-made trails. These are beautifully crafted with big sweeping berms and fun rollers that other bike park trail crews would be best to follow their example. Some of the jump trails require a bit of caution though; a lot of the jumps are extremely steep, are very often blind, have savage knuckles and even steeper landings. It is not intuitive and perhaps not the most well-made trail I have ever ridden but with a few careful runs through you will soon figure out which jumps are too short and which are too long. 

The Hummel lift crosses this area and takes riders to the middle plateau where they have a choice to either drop into the man-made trail zone or access some of the freshest and most refreshing non-bike park bike park trails ever. Curling through green forest these trails are the definition of flow, but the best part is that the trail has been left natural. Roots, gentle off camber, tight turns, large sweepers, natural hits, you name it these trails have it all. I am astonished and yet filled with happiness that there is a bike park out there who believes that new trails don’t have to be big, fat, wide, stinkingly uniform machine-made trails or straight up fall line trails. There is another option and it is well thought out trails that use the natural terrain on a graceful gradient. Trails that are crafted but allowed to mature and blossom. Something that can be enjoyed for many years to come as it slowly morphs into the shape it should be. Snorkeln, BrÓ“ckeBÓ“cksleden and GettrÓ“ppen are three must do trails in Åre.

The third area is the most unique area. Take the Kabinbanan tram (an unfashionably slow two cabin tram that was installed in 1976) to the very top and you have three trail options like almost no other on earth. Wide open, fast, and rocky trails that take advantage of the exposed rock of the alpine area with lines within lines, well worn groves, and attempts at machine trails that can’t hold off the test of a winter snow pack. The blue trail up here is called Easy Rider and was supposed to allow more novice riders access to the top zone, but a manicured, easily maintained trail was not supposed to ever exist there. Over time it has been eaten and chewed by the snow pack, the spring thaw, the rock cracking cold, the rains, wind, and riders until it has become a sublime trail that has stubby teeth with which it tries to bite. The line and gradient lend itself to high speed moto inspired roosting. Loose rock, sheet rock, roughly bermed corners, and natural jumps characterize this trail and it definitely goes into my all time feel good trails list. Also up the top is HÓ“llrajd (or Hellride to those of a less Swedish nature) which is a double black trail. At first it is a great challenge to blast down with some flow and then it turns into a hypersonic, wide open, rock festival for several kilometers. The third trail is called 1000meters (simply because of the vertical drop) and reminds me of an unmaintained Fort William World Cup track. Fast and rocky, it weaves through the grass land and skips over the marshland and alpine streams. As the trail has worn down it has made some natural berms and jumps with which to help hold speed down the trail. Eventually it joins up with Easy Rider and then the Hummel lift so you have the option to hit the machine trails or the forest flow. One option is to utilize a bit of both and ride the wonderful steep and rutted Downhillbanan trail (used for Åre round of the national series most years) then slip into Nelson, which was created by some locals a few years back after a trip to Nelson, BC but named after a dead German rhino. Long story so Google it. 

Åre essentials.

The bike park is open between late June and early October. I would suggest a downhill bike but I rode my 150mm Santa Cruz Butcher all week and loved it. It also gave me the freedom to explore the local XC trails.

There is plenty of accommodation as is expected with a large ski resort. You can hire a condo right at the bottom of the mountain. If you are with friends I would suggest this option because eating and drinking is incredibly expensive in Sweden. Having your own condo means you can cook and economize.

Another option is to stay with Dream Ride Holidays. They run full packages that include airport transfers, accommodation, lift passes and a couple of days guiding. All at a reasonable cost. They are also there round the clock to sort out any problems that you might have (such as scenic tours to the local A&E) and give you advice on local cuisine and watering holes. http://www.dreamrideholidays.com/about/

As for bars I would suggest Dahlboms in the town square as they serve good food, good drinks and it seems to be the popular hang out spot for locals and tourists alike. However, drinking is cripplingly expensive so unless you have a very understanding bank manager you won’t be drinking much. For fika (coffee and cake break with friends) I have to recommend Hyddan which is hidden just up the slopes. A perfect stop whilst riding or great day time spot. Quiet if you want to relax or sociable if you need it to be. Also home to one of the most lovely bakers I have ever met and some of the best rhubarb crumble known to man. Look out for the picture of the Virgin Mary with her holy udders out in the wash room. 

Lastly, language is not a problem as every Swede speaks impeccable English and is more than willing to speak. I tried picking up a few words as should everyone in a foreign country but everyone was so natural at speaking English that is was hard to move much further with the learning.

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After ten days I was very much in love with Åre. Not just because of the trails, the tales and the exquisite women, but because of the people. The people I was fortunate enough to meet are among some of the best people I have ever met. They are warm hearted, open, honest, generous, lively and centered. The town of Åre is small, but it brings together the right kind of people. People who want to express themselves in the outdoors and share it with others. Åre Bergscyklister is the local club that works tirelessly to make riding a better experience in Åre. They are made up of a diverse range of people and riders who bring their individual skills and passion together to make great things happen. If you are in Åre then you will feel the same great feeling I had there and I’m sure you will meet some incredible people to share the trails with.

Photographs courtesy of Simon Sjoren (www.sjoren.se)

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